Month: September 2006

  • Oriana Fallaci directs her fury toward Islam. Men's Cologne

    Oriana Fallaci directs her fury toward Islam.





    THE AGITATOR
    by MARGARET TALBOT
    Oriana Fallaci directs her fury toward Islam.
    Issue of 2006-06-05
    Posted 2006-05-29

    "Yesterday, I was hysterical," the Italian journalist and novelist Oriana Fallaci said. She was telling me a story about a local dog owner and the liberties he'd allowed his animal to take in front of Fallaci's town house, on the Upper East Side. Big mistake. "I no longer have the energy to get really angry, like I used to," she added. It called to mind what the journalist Robert Scheer said about Fallaci after interviewing her for Playboy, in 1981: "For the first time in my life, I found myself feeling sorry for the likes of Khomeini, Qaddafi, the Shah of Iran, and Kissinger—all of whom had been the objects of her wrath—the people she described as interviewing 'with a thousand feelings of rage.' "

    For two decades, from the mid-nineteen-sixties to the mid-nineteen-eighties, Fallaci was one of the sharpest political interviewers in the world. Her subjects were among the world's most powerful figures: Yasir Arafat, Golda Meir, Indira Gandhi, Haile Selassie, Deng Xiaoping. Henry Kissinger, who later wrote that his 1972 interview with her was "the single most disastrous conversation I have ever had with any member of the press," said that he had been flattered into granting it by the company he'd be keeping as part of Fallaci's "journalistic pantheon." It was more like a collection of pelts: Fallaci never left her subjects unskinned.

    Fallaci's manner of interviewing was deliberately unsettling: she approached each encounter with studied aggressiveness, made frequent nods to European existentialism (she often disarmed her subjects with bald questions about death, God, and pity), and displayed a sinuous, crafty intelligence. It didn't hurt that she was petite and beautiful, with straight, smooth hair that she wore parted in the middle or in pigtails; melancholy blue-gray eyes, set off by eyeliner; a cigarette-cured voice; and an adorable Italian accent. During the Vietnam War, she was sometimes photographed in fatigues and a helmet; her rucksack bore handwritten instructions to return her body to the Italian Ambassador "if K.I.A." In these images she looked as slight and vulnerable as a child. When she was shot, in 1968, while reporting on the student demonstrations in Mexico City, and then confined by the police with the wounded and the dying on one floor of an apartment building, the first impulse of the students around her was to protect her; one boy gave her his sweater, in order to cover her face from the drip of a sewage pipe. Her essential toughness never stopped taking people—men, especially—by surprise.

    Fallaci's journalism, at first conducted for the Italian magazine L'Europeo and later published in translation throughout the world, was infused with a "mythic sense of political evil," as the writer Vivian Gornick once put it—an almost adolescent aversion to power, which suited the temperament of the times. As Fallaci explained in her preface to "Interview with History," a 1976 collection of Q. & A.s, "Whether it comes from a despotic sovereign or an elected president, from a murderous general or a beloved leader, I see power as an inhuman and hateful phenomenon. . . . I have always looked on disobedience toward the oppressive as the only way to use the miracle of having been born." In Fallaci's interview with Kissinger, she told him that he had become known as "Nixon's mental wet nurse," and lured him into boasting that Americans admired him because he "always acted alone"—like "the cowboy who leads the wagon train by riding ahead alone on his horse, the cowboy who rides all alone into the town." Political cartoonists mercilessly lampooned this remark, and, according to Kissinger's memoirs, the quote soured his relations with Nixon. (Kissinger claimed that she had taken his words out of context.) But the most remarkable moment in the interview came when Fallaci bluntly asked him, about Vietnam, "Don't you find, Dr. Kissinger, that it's been a useless war?," and Kissinger began his reply with the words "On this, I can agree."

    Fallaci's interview with Khomeini, which appeared in the Times on October 7, 1979, soon after the Iranian revolution, was the most exhilarating example of her pugilistic approach. Fallaci had travelled to Qum to try to secure an interview with Khomeini, and she waited ten days before he received her. She had followed instructions from the new Islamist regime, and arrived at the Ayatollah's home barefoot and wrapped in a chador. Almost immediately, she unleashed a barrage of questions about the closing of opposition newspapers, the treatment of Iran's Kurdish minority, and the summary executions performed by the new regime. When Khomeini defended these practices, noting that some of the people killed had been brutal servants of the Shah, Fallaci demanded, "Is it right to shoot the poor prostitute or a woman who is unfaithful to her husband, or a man who loves another man?" The Ayatollah answered with a pair of remorseless metaphors. "If your finger suffers from gangrene, what do you do? Do you let the whole hand, and then the body, become filled with gangrene, or do you cut the finger off? What brings corruption to an entire country and its people must be pulled up like the weeds that infest a field of wheat."

    Fallaci continued posing indignant questions about the treatment of women in the new Islamic state. Why, she asked, did Khomeini compel women to "hide themselves, all bundled up," when they had proved their equal stature by helping to bring about the Islamic revolution? Khomeini replied that the women who "contributed to the revolution were, and are, women with the Islamic dress"; they weren't women like Fallaci, who "go around all uncovered, dragging behind them a tail of men." A few minutes later, Fallaci asked a more insolent question: "How do you swim in a chador?" Khomeini snapped, "Our customs are none of your business. If you do not like Islamic dress you are not obliged to wear it. Because Islamic dress is for good and proper young women." Fallaci saw an opening, and charged in. "That's very kind of you, Imam. And since you said so, I'm going to take off this stupid, medieval rag right now." She yanked off her chador.

    In a recent e-mail, Fallaci said of Khomeini, "At that point, it was he who acted offended. He got up like a cat, as agile as a cat, an agility I would never expect in a man as old as he was, and he left me. In fact, I had to wait for twenty-four hours (or forty-eight?) to see him again and conclude the interview." When Khomeini let her return, his son Ahmed gave Fallaci some advice: his father was still very angry, so she'd better not even mention the word "chador." Fallaci turned the tape recorder back on and immediately revisited the subject. "First he looked at me in astonishment," she said. "Total astonishment. Then his lips moved in a shadow of a smile. Then the shadow of a smile became a real smile. And finally it became a laugh. He laughed, yes. And, when the interview was over, Ahmed whispered to me, 'Believe me, I never saw my father laugh. I think you are the only person in this world who made him laugh.' "

    Fallaci recalled that she found Khomeini intelligent, and "the most handsome old man I had ever met in my life. He resembled the 'Moses' sculpted by Michelangelo." And, she said, Khomeini was "not a puppet like Arafat or Qaddafi or the many other dictators I met in the Islamic world. He was a sort of Pope, a sort of king—a real leader. And it did not take long to realize that in spite of his quiet appearance he represented the Robespierre or the Lenin of something which would go very far and would poison the world. People loved him too much. They saw in him another Prophet. Worse: a God."

    Upon leaving Khomeini's house after her first interview, Fallaci was besieged by Iranians who wanted to touch her because she'd been in the Ayatollah's presence. "The sleeves of my shirt were all torn off, my slacks, too," she recalled. "My arms were full of bruises, and hands, too. Do believe me: everything started with Khomeini. Without Khomeini, we would not be where we are. What a pity that, when pregnant with him, his mother did not choose to have an abortion."


    Today, Fallaci believes, the Western world is in danger of being engulfed by radical Islam. Since September 11, 2001, she has written three short, angry books advancing this argument. Two of them, "The Rage and the Pride" and "The Force of Reason," have been translated into idiosyncratic English by Fallaci herself. (She has had difficult relationships with translators in the past.) A third, "The Apocalypse," was recently published in Europe, in a volume that also includes a lengthy self-interview. She writes that Muslim immigration is turning Europe into "a colony of Islam," an abject place that she calls "Eurabia," which will soon "end up with minarets in place of the bell-towers, with the burka in place of the mini-skirt." Fallaci argues that Islam has always had designs on Europe, invoking the siege of Constantinople in the seventh century, and the brutal incursions of the Ottoman Empire in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. She contends that contemporary immigration from Muslim countries to Europe amounts to the same thing—invasion—only this time with "children and boats" instead of "troops and cannons." And, as Fallaci sees it, the "art of invading and conquering and subjugating" is "the only art at which the sons of Allah have always excelled." Italy, unlike America, has never been a melting pot, or a "mosaic of diversities glued together by a citizenship. Because our cultural identity has been well defined for thousands of years we cannot bear a migratory wave of people who have nothing to do with us . . . who, on the contrary, aim to absorb us." Muslim immigrants—with their burkas, their chadors, their separate schools—have no desire to assimilate, she believes. And European leaders, in their muddleheaded multiculturalism, have made absurd accommodations to them: allowing Muslim women to be photographed for identity documents with their heads covered; looking the other way when Muslim men violate the law by taking multiple wives or defend the abuse of women on supposedly Islamic grounds. (European governments are, in fact, hardening on these matters: France recently deported a Muslim cleric in Lyons who advocated wife-beating and the stoning of adulterous women.)

    According to Fallaci, Europeans, particularly those on the political left, subject people who criticize Muslim customs to a double standard. "If you speak your mind on the Vatican, on the Catholic Church, on the Pope, on the Virgin Mary or Jesus or the saints, nobody touches your 'right of thought and expression.' But if you do the same with Islam, the Koran, the Prophet Muhammad, some son of Allah, you are called a xenophobic blasphemer who has committed an act of racial discrimination. If you kick the ass of a Chinese or an Eskimo or a Norwegian who has hissed at you an obscenity, nothing happens. On the contrary, you get a 'Well done, good for you.' But if under the same circumstances you kick the ass of an Algerian or a Moroccan or a Nigerian or a Sudanese, you get lynched." The rhetoric of Fallaci's trilogy is intentionally intemperate and frequently offensive: in the first volume, she writes that Muslims "breed like rats"; in the second, she writes that this statement was "a little brutal" but "indisputably accurate." She ascribes behavior to bloodlines—Spain, she writes, has been overly acquiescent to Muslim immigrants because "too many Spaniards still have the Koran in the blood"—and her political views are often expressed in the language of disgust. Images of soiling recur in the books: at one point in "The Rage and the Pride" she complains about Somali Muslims leaving "yellow streaks of urine that profaned the millenary marbles of the Baptistery" in Florence. "Good Heavens!" she writes. "They really take long shots, these sons of Allah! How could they succeed in hitting so well that target protected by a balcony and more than two yards distant from their urinary apparatus?" Six pages later, she describes urine streaks in the Piazza San Marco, in Venice, and wonders if Muslim men will one day "shit in the Sistine Chapel."

    These books have brought Fallaci, who will turn seventy-seven later this month, and who has had cancer for more than a decade, to a strange place in her life. Much of the Italian intelligentsia now shuns her. (The German press has been highly critical, too.) A 2003 article in the left-wing newspaper La Repubblica called her "ignorantissima," an "exhibitionist posing as the Joan of Arc of the West." A fashionable gallery in Milan recently showed a large portrait of her—beheaded. After the Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera published the long article that became "The Rage and the Pride," La Repubblica ran a reply from Umberto Eco, which did not mention Fallaci by name but denounced cultural chauvinism and called for tolerance. "We are a pluralistic society because we permit mosques to be built in our own home, and we cannot give this up just because in Kabul they put evangelical Christians in jail," he wrote. "If we did, we would become Taliban ourselves."

    Fallaci has repeatedly fallen afoul of some of Europe's strict laws against vilifying religions or inciting racial hatred. (In Europe, the prevailing impulse toward certain kinds of outré opinions is to ban their expression.) In 2002, a French group, Movement Against Racism and for Friendship Between Peoples, tried unsuccessfully to get "The Rage and the Pride" banned. The following year, Swiss officials, under pressure from Muslim groups in that country, asked that she be extradited for trial; the Italian Minister of Justice refused the request. And she currently faces trial in Italy, on charges that amount to blasphemy, of all things. Last year, Adel Smith, a convert to Islam who heads a group called the Muslim Union of Italy, and who had previously sued the government to have a crucifix removed from his sons' classroom, persuaded a judge in Bergamo to allow him to charge Fallaci with defaming Islam. A Mussolini-era criminal code holds that "whoever offends the state's religion, by defaming those who profess it, will be punished with up to two years of imprisonment." Though the code was written to protect the Catholic Church, it has been successively amended in the past ten years, so that it encompasses any "religion acknowledged by the state." The complaint against Fallaci marks the first time that the code has been invoked on behalf of any religion but Catholicism. (In January, Fallaci's supporters in the Italian Senate pushed through an amendment to the code, reducing the maximum penalty to five thousand euros.)

    Yet Fallaci's recent books, and the specious trial that she is facing as a result—her books may offend, but it is no less offensive to prosecute her for them—have also made her a beloved figure to many Europeans. The books have been best-sellers in Italy; together they have sold four million copies. To her admirers, she is an aging Cassandra, summoning her strength for one final prophecy. In September, she had a private audience with Pope Benedict XVI at Castel Gandolfo, his summer residence outside Rome. She had criticized John Paul II for making overtures to Muslims, and for not condemning terrorism heartily enough, but she has hopes for Joseph Ratzinger. (The meeting was something of a scandal in Italy, since Fallaci has always said that she is an atheist; more recently, she has called herself a "Christian atheist," out of respect for Italy's Catholic tradition.) Last December, the Italian government presented her with a gold medal for "cultural achievement."

    Fallaci's arguments appeal to many Europeans on a visceral level. The murder of the Dutch filmmaker Theo van Gogh, the "honor killings" of young women in England and Sweden, and the controversy in France over whether girls may wear head scarves to school have underscored the enormous clash in values between secular Europeans and fundamentalist Muslim immigrants. In Holland, immigration officials have begun showing potential immigrants films and brochures that detail certain "European" values, including equality of the sexes and tolerance of homosexuality. The implicit suggestion is that in order to live in Europe you must accept these ideas. Such clumsy efforts betray the frustration and confusion that many Europeans have felt since the riots that broke out in the suburbs of Paris last fall—perhaps the most spectacular sign that the assimilation of Western Europe's fifteen million Muslims has stalled in many places, and never started in others.

    Some European intellectuals have given Fallaci credit for offering an enraged, articulate voice to people who are genuinely bewildered and dismayed by the challenges of assimilating Islamic immigrants. In 2002, writing in the Italian weekly Panorama, Lucia Annunziata, a former foreign correspondent and columnist, and Carlo Rossella, then the magazine's editor, argued that "The Rage and the Pride" had "redefined Italy's conception of the current conflict between the Western world and the Islamic world. . . . Oriana Fallaci has confronted the issue with ironclad simplicity: We are different, she has said. And, at this point, we are incompatible." The French philosopher Alain Finkielkraut, writing in Le Point, said that Fallaci "went too far," reducing all "Sons of Allah to their worst elements," yet he commended her for taking "the discourse and the actions of our adversaries" at their word and—in the wake of September 11th, the execution of Daniel Pearl, the destruction of Buddhas in Afghanistan, and other atrocities committed in the name of Islam—not being intimidated by the "penitential narcissism that makes the West guilty of even that which victimizes it."

    Last year, a support committee for Fallaci collected some letters that it had received from people across Italy and presented them as a testimonial to her. A Florentine couple wrote, "Brava, Oriana. You had the courage and the pride to speak in the name of most Italians (who are perhaps too silent) who still have not sold out the social, moral, and religious values that belong to us. . . . If [immigrants] do not share our ideas, then why do they come to Italy? Why should we endure arrogance and interference by those who have no desire to integrate into our system and who are darkened by anti-Western hatred? We welcome them as guests, but immediately they act like the owners." Another fan wrote, "In this tragic and historic moment, only one voice has been raised high to speak for the conscience of most Westerners. . . . That is why we are impotently witnessing the breakdown and decline of a civilization whose values are now ridiculed by those who are in charge of protecting them. . . . Thank you, Oriana."


    Fallaci owns an apartment in Florence and has an estate in the Tuscan countryside. But she spends most of the year in New York, where she leads a fairly solitary life and, necessarily, spends a lot of time visiting doctors. In November, when she delivered an acceptance speech for an award given by the conservative Center for the Study of Popular Culture, it was a rare public appearance.

    "Darling," she growled over the phone the first time we spoke, "as you well know, I never give interviews." Strictly speaking, this isn't true. Over the years, she's given many of them, sometimes with embarrassing results—in Scheer's 1981 Playboy interview, she complained about homosexuals who "swagger and strut and wag their tails" and "fat" women reporters who didn't like her. When I visited her on a rainy Saturday afternoon in April, and again the next day, I found her voluble and dramatic, capable of leaping to her feet to illustrate a point, and shouting when she felt the point warranted it—which was often. She smoked little brown Nat Sherman cigarettes; smoking, she believes, "disinfects" her.

    Fallaci's New York residence is a handsome nineteenth-century brownstone, painted white, with a walled garden in the back. She had longed for such a house since childhood; as a young girl in Italy during the Second World War, she'd found a Collier's magazine in a care package dropped by U.S. military pilots, and fallen in love with a photo essay about American houses. "It's funny to say that, with the marvellous architecture we have in Italy, I desired a house like this," she said. "I grew up with this obsession of a white house with a black door." Inside, the second-floor rooms, where we talked, had a scholarly, slightly worn elegance. The bookshelves held translations of Fallaci's books and leather-bound early editions of Dickens, Voltaire, and Shakespeare. There were eighteenth- and nineteenth-century oil paintings on the walls; an old-fashioned cream-colored dial phone sat on a small table with a stained-glass lamp. It was the sort of setting where you could imagine retired professors sipping port and sparring genially over Greek participles. It was not the sort of setting where you expected to find a woman of Fallaci's age yelling "Mamma mia! " and threatening to break various people's heads and blow things up.

    We sat down next to a table piled with newspaper clippings from Italy, which chronicled Fallaci's anti-Islamic crusade: articles by her and articles about her, often on the front page. The Italian press is, as she puts it, "ob-sess-ed" with her. One article, "Reading Oriana in Tehran," which had run in La Stampa, claimed that Fallaci was a legend among independent-minded women in Iran. "That's damn good!" she said. Fallaci's earlier books are widely available in Iran, but the trilogy has been banned. "You know what these women did?" she said. "They got copies in English and in French, and they photocopied them, chapter by chapter, and distributed them to others. They can go to jail for that." The reporter for La Stampa had mainly found women who admired Fallaci for her earlier work: two female university students noted that Fallaci had been equally tough on the Shah and on Khomeini, and that she'd shown up to get her Iranian visa wearing nail polish and jeans.

    On the day I visited, Fallaci was dressed like a refined European lady: tweed skirt, leaf-green sweater, handsome antique jewelry, suède pumps. She wore her hair tied neatly at the nape of her neck rather than long and loose, as she used to, but she still looked beautiful—she has a perfect oval face and robust cheekbones. She put on a pair of jewel-rimmed reading glasses as she brandished another clipping, and said with satisfaction, "Ah, this is the scandal!" The conservative newspaper Libero had campaigned, unsuccessfully, for Fallaci to be made a Senator for Life, an honor conferred by the Italian President. According to the paper, the outgoing President, Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, had considered giving Fallaci the title, but lost his nerve. "To me, in a sense, it was a relief," Fallaci said. "I didn't want to be Senator for Life, and stay in Rome. I would not know where to sit." She hopped up to demonstrate, pointing to the left and the right sides of an imaginary aisle—she belonged to no political side. Nevertheless, with evident delight, she noted that Ciampi's "wife was infuriated at him" for the decision. "For some time, she didn't speak to him. Three days after Christmas, she managed to have me receive a bouquet of white flowers. That was cute."

    I visited Fallaci on the day before the Italian election, in which Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi was defeated by the center-left candidate, Romano Prodi. Fallaci told me that she had not sent in an absentee ballot. She loved referenda: "Do you want the hunter to go hunting under your window? No! Do you want the Koran in your schools? No!" "No" was something Fallaci was happy to say. But Berlusconi and Prodi were "two fucking idiots," she said. "Why do the people humiliate themselves by voting? I didn't vote. No! Because I have dignity. . . . If, at a certain moment, I had closed my nose and voted for one of them, I would spit on my own face."

    Many of the clippings on Fallaci's table focussed on Adel Smith's lawsuit against her. She said that she would not attend the trial, which is scheduled for later this month. Although she is no longer at risk of incarceration, she invoked the possibility. "Because, you know, I am a danger to myself if I get angry," she said. "If they were thinking to give me three years in jail, I will say or do something for which they give me nine years! I am capable of everything if I get angry."


    I'd always thought of Fallaci as an icon of the nineteen-sixties—one of those women who had lived an emancipated life without ever calling herself a feminist, an insouciant heroine out of "The Golden Notebook" or "Bonjour Tristesse." She denigrated marriage, got thrown out of nice restaurants for wearing slacks, and hung out with Anna Magnani and Ingrid Bergman. Her autobiographical novel "Letter to a Child Never Born" (1975) was a free woman's despairing confession of ambivalence about bearing a child. "A Man" (1979) was a fictional tribute to her great love, the Greek resistance fighter Alexandros Panagoulis, who died in a suspicious automobile accident in Athens three years after they met. Panagoulis had been imprisoned, and endured torture, for his failed attempt on the life of the Greek junta leader George Papadopoulos, in 1968. "I didn't want to kill a man," he told Fallaci in an interview. "I'm not capable of killing a man. I wanted to kill a tyrant." As a political prisoner, Panagoulis was defiant toward his captors and wrote poetry in his own blood; Fallaci considered him a model of what it is to be a man. I thought of her as a product of that heady time when big and bloody political matters were still at stake in Europe (dictators ruled Spain, Portugal, and Greece), but small, sophisticated cultural rebellions (movies, hair styles, poetic manifestos) made life chic and interesting. There's some truth to this image, but Fallaci's sensibility is a product less of the sixties than of the forties, and the struggle against Fascism in the Second World War.

    Fallaci was born in Florence in 1929, to a family with a long history of rebellion. Her mother, Tosca, she said, was the orphaned daughter of an anarchist—"and I tell you those were people with balls! With balls! And they were the first ones to be executed." On both sides of her family, she said, she had relatives who fought for the Risorgimento—"people who were always in jail." Fallaci was an avid reader as a child (her parents lived modestly but splurged on books), and a favorite author was Jack London. His tales of brave acts in the face of savage nature inspired her to become a writer. She describes her father, Edoardo—a craftsman who became a leader in the anti-Fascist movement in Tuscany, and who served time in prison for it—as a sweet man. "Heroes can be sweet," she said, adding that Panagoulis had been that way, too. But both of Fallaci's parents prized courage and toughness in their three daughters. In "The Rage and the Pride," she tells a story about the Allied bombardment of Florence on September 25, 1943. She and her family took refuge in a church as the bombs began to fall. The walls were shaking—the priest cried out, "Help us, Jesus!"—and Oriana, who was the eldest, at fourteen, began to cry. "In a silent, composed way, mind you," she writes. "No moans, no hiccups. But Father noticed it all the same, and, in order to help me, to calm me down, poor Father, he did the wrong thing. He gave me a powerful slap—he stared me in the eyes and said, 'A girl does not, must not, cry.' " Fallaci says that she's never cried since—not even when Panagoulis died.

    As a teen-ager, Fallaci did clandestine work for the anti-Fascist underground—she had her own nom de guerre, Emilia, and she carried explosives and delivered messages. After Italy surrendered, in September, 1943, and American and British prisoners began escaping from prison camps, one of her tasks was to accompany them "past the lines" and to safe refuge. Fallaci was chosen because she wore her hair in pigtails and looked deceptively innocent. "It was so scary, because there were minefields, and you never knew where the mines were," she recalled. "When my mother read that in a book later, she said, to my father, 'You would have sacrificed newly born children! You and your ideas.' And then she said, 'Well, but I had a feeling you were doing something like that.' "

    Fallaci's parents looked upon the Americans as their particular friends, and when she was in high school they insisted that she learn English when her classmates were studying French. It was the beginning of a lifelong affinity for America, even when, as during the Vietnam War, she was sharply critical of its policies. "In my old age, I have been thinking about this, and I have reached the conclusion that those who have physical courage also have moral courage," she said. "Physical courage is a great test." She added, "I know I have courage. But I'm not alone. My sister Neera was like me. And my second sister, Paola, too. It came from the education my parents gave us."

    She proudly told a story about her mother, which, like other recollections, sounded as if it might have been polished over time. "When my father was arrested, we didn't know where they had him, so she went everywhere for two days and finally she found him, at the house of torture. It was called Villa Triste. They killed people there. And the Fascist major was named Mario Carità—Major Charity. Mother—I don't know how she did it—she went to the office of Major Charity, passing a room that was full of blood on the floor, the blood of three men who had been arrested and tied together, and one of them was my father. Carità says, 'Madam. I have no time to lose. Your husband will be executed tomorrow morning at six. You can dress in black.' My mother got up—and I always imagine the scene this way, as if she were the Statue of Liberty—and my mother said, 'Mario Carità, tomorrow morning I shall dress in black, like you said. But if you are born from the womb of a woman, ask your mother to do the same, because your day will come very soon.' You could think for a year before you came up with something like that—to her, it came." Her mother was pregnant at the time, Fallaci went on. "She mounted on her bicycle, and all at once she had pains so terrible. She entered into a beautiful building and, in the atrium, she lost the child. She put it in, I don't know, a handkerchief or something. She mounted the bicycle again. She rode home. I opened the door, and there was mother, as pale as snow. And before she entered she said, 'Father will be executed tomorrow morning at six, and Elena'—that was the name she had given the baby—'is dead.' No tears." In the end, Edoardo Fallaci was spared, though he spent additional time in jail. Fallaci's sister Neera became a writer, and died of cancer; Paola is a perfectionist gardener—imagine a cross between Martha Stewart and Oriana—who raises prize-quality chickens on Fallaci's property in rural Tuscany.

    Fallaci sees the threat of Islamic fundamentalism as a revival of the Fascism that she and her sisters grew up fighting. She told me, "I am convinced that the situation is politically substantially the same as in 1938, with the pact in Munich, when England and France did not understand a thing. With the Muslims, we have done the same thing." She elaborated, in an e-mail, "Look at the Muslims: in Europe they go on with their chadors and their burkas and their djellabahs. They go on with the habits preached by the Koran, they go on with mistreating their wives and daughters. They refuse our culture, in short, and try to impose their culture, or so-called culture, on us. . . . I reject them, and this is not only my duty toward my culture. Toward my values, my principles, my civilization. It is not only my duty toward my Christian roots. It is my duty toward freedom and toward the freedom fighter I am since I was a little girl fighting as a partisan against Nazi-Fascism. Islamism is the new Nazi-Fascism. With Nazi-Fascism, no compromise is possible. No hypocritical tolerance. And those who do not understand this simple reality are feeding the suicide of the West."

    Fallaci refuses to recognize the limitations of this metaphor—say, the fact that Muslim immigration is not the same as an annexation by another state. And although European countries should indeed refuse to countenance certain cultural practices—polygamy, "honor killings," and anti-Semitic teachings, for example—Fallaci tends to portray the worst practices of Islamic fundamentalists as representative of all Muslims. Certainly, European countries have made some foolish compromises in the name of placating Muslim residents. In Germany, where courts have ordered that Muslim religious instruction be offered in schools, just as Christian instruction is, critics have complained that the Islamic teaching often perpetuates a conservative version of Islam. The result, the historian Bernard Lewis argued, in a recent talk in Washington, is that "Islam as taught in Turkish schools is a sort of modernized, semi-secularized version of Islam, and Islam as taught in German schools is the full Wahhabi blast." (This is a good reminder of why the American model of keeping religious instruction out of public schools facilitates assimilation.) Many of Fallaci's objections, however, have more to do with her aesthetic sensibilities. For her, hearing Muslim prayers in Tuscany—she does her own wailing imitation—is a form of oppression. Yet such examples do not rise to the level of argument that she wants to make, which is that the native culture of Italy will collapse if Muslims keep immigrating.

    "They live at our expense, because they've got schools, hospitals, everything," she said at one point, beginning to shout. "And they want to build damn mosques everywhere." She spoke of a new mosque and Islamic center planned for Colle di Val d'Elsa, near Siena. She vowed that it would not remain standing. "If I'm alive, I will go to my friends in Carrara—you know, where there is the marble. They are all anarchists. With them, I take the explosives. I make you juuump in the air. I blow it up! With the anarchists of Carrara. I do not want to see this mosque—it's very near my house in Tuscany. I do not want to see a twenty-four-metre minaret in the landscape of Giotto. When I cannot even wear a cross or carry a Bible in their country! So I BLOW IT UP! "


    The magnificently rebellious Oriana Fallaci now cultivates, it seems, the prejudices of the petite bourgeoisie. She is opposed to abortion, unless she "were raped and made pregnant by a bin Laden or a Zarqawi." She is fiercely opposed to gay marriage ("In the same way that the Muslims would like us all to become Muslims, they would like us all to become homosexuals"), and suspicious of immigration in general. The demonstrations by immigrants in the United States these past few months "disgust" her, especially when protesters displayed the Mexican flag. "I don't love the Mexicans," Fallaci said, invoking her nasty treatment at the hands of Mexican police in 1968. "If you hold a gun and say, 'Choose who is worse between the Muslims and the Mexicans,' I have a moment of hesitation. Then I choose the Muslims, because they have broken my balls."

    In "The Rage and the Pride," Fallaci portrays the attacks of September 11th as a thunderclap that woke her from a quiet, novel-writing existence and transformed her, almost unwillingly, into an anti-Islamic rebel. But Fallaci's distaste for Islam goes way back. Reasonable worries about the rise of Muslim fundamentalism were combined with a visceral revulsion and the need for a new enemy, in the post-Fascist, post-Communist world. Her interviews with Yasir Arafat (whom she loathed), Qaddafi (whom she also loathed), and even Muhammad Ali (whom she walked out on, she says, after he belched in her face) all fuelled her antipathy toward the Muslim world. So did her experiences in Beirut during its disintegration, in the nineteen-eighties—the basis for her 1990 novel, "Inshallah."

    I started wondering if Fallaci would tolerate any Muslim immigration, or any mosque in Europe, so I asked her these questions by e-mail, and she sent back lengthy replies. "The tolerance level was already surpassed fifteen or twenty years ago," she wrote, "when the Left let the Muslims disembark on our coasts by the thousands. And it is well known . . . that I do not accept the mendacity of the so-called Moderate Islam. I do not believe that a Good Islam and a Bad Islam exist. Only Islam exists. And Islam is the Koran. And the Koran says what it says. Whatever its version. Of course there are exceptions. Also, considering the mathematical calculation of probabilities, some good Muslims must exist. I mean Muslims who appreciate freedom and democracy and secularism. But, as I say in the 'Apocalypse,' . . . good Muslims are few. So tragically few, in fact, that they must go around with bodyguards." (Here she mentioned Ayaan Hirsi Ali, the Somali-born former member of the Dutch parliament, whom Holland, shamefully, declared last month that it would strip of her citizenship, citing an irregularity in her 1997 asylum application.) She wrote that she found my question about whether she would tolerate any mosques in Europe "insidious" and "offensive," because it "aims to portray me as the bloodthirsty fanatics, who during the French Revolution beheaded even the statues of the Holy Virgin and of Jesus Christ and the Saints. Or as the equally bloodthirsty fanatics of the Bolshevik Revolution, who burned the icons and executed the clergymen and used the churches as warehouses. Really, no honest person can suggest that my ideas belong to that kind of people. I am known for a life spent in the struggle for freedom, and freedom includes the freedom of religion. But the struggle for freedom does not include the submission to a religion which, like the Muslim religion, wants to annihilate other religions. Which wants to impose its 'Mein Kampf,' its Koran, on the whole planet. Which has done so for one thousand and four hundred years. That is, since its birth. Which, unlike any other religion, slaughters and decapitates or enslaves all those who live differently."


    My second meeting with Fallaci was a less inflammatory encounter. She is an excellent cook, and she made us lunch—cotechino sausage, polenta, mashed potatoes, and delicious little tarts with pine nuts and dried fruit—and served champagne. I'd never seen anyone approach certain kitchen tasks with such ferocity. "I must CRUSH the potatoes," she declared. At one point, we spoke about populist leaders in Latin America, and the political left's romance with them over the years; I mentioned Hugo Chávez, the President of Venezuela. "Mamma mia! Mamma mia! " Fallaci shouted from the kitchen. "Listen," she said more calmly. "You cannot govern, you cannot administrate, with an ignoramus." When I left, she insisted on giving me a bag of chestnut flour and dictating a recipe for a dessert that she says children love. "If you make a mistake, you spoil everything," she instructed, adding, "Get the good olive oil—not the kind they do in New Jersey."

    Fallaci was wearing a sweater and a skirt again that day. Late in life, she realized that skirts are more comfortable than the pants she had favored as a young woman. Besides, she wore pants when other women didn't because she was "a person who had always gone against the current," certainly since she started her writing career, at age sixteen, as a beat reporter for a Florentine newspaper. Now that everybody wore pants, what was the point? She had some evening dresses upstairs, relics from a brief period in her early thirties when she'd been a little less serious. But now they felt to her "like monuments"; where would she wear them? We talked about the historical novel that she had set aside after September 11th, when "this Islam business kidnapped me," her regrets that she's never had children, and her long illness. One of her doctors, she said, had asked her recently, "Why are you still alive?" Fallaci responded, "Dottore, don't do that to me. Someday I break your head." She added, "Another day, I smiled and said, 'You tell me—you are the doctor.' See, I got offended. 'I don't want to come here to hear about my death. Your duty is to speak to me about life, to keep me alive.' "

    She surprised me with a charming story about being a young writer in New York in the nineteen-sixties. At the time, she recalled, she'd had a chance to interview Greta Garbo—a mutual friend wanted to set it up. But Fallaci admired Garbo's fierce and elegant privacy, and didn't want to pursue the matter. And then one winter evening Fallaci was shopping at the Dover Delicatessen, on Fifty-seventh Street, and Garbo happened to be there: "You couldn't not recognize her. She was Greta Garbo. She was dressed like Greta Garbo—with the hair, the glasses. And she was choosing chicken with extreme care. She would look at a leg and toss it back, then the breast, and so on. And I felt ashamed of myself that I was observing her. I went in the other aisle, and I remember I got a lot of things, because I wanted her to go out and not go by me." It was a rainy night and Fallaci had no umbrella. She recalled that Garbo, on her way out the door, stopped and held it open. "She said, 'Here, Miss Fallaci.' I looked like a poor, pitiful bird." They walked together, under Garbo's umbrella, to the corner of Third Avenue, and Fallaci—in a rare moment of restraint—barely said a word.

    After I had interviewed Fallaci, I discovered two great examples of her journalism that I had not read before. In a witty 1963 article about Federico Fellini, Fallaci describes with wary, nervy thoroughness the many times and places that the great director kept her waiting. When she finally corners him, she begins by saying, "So then let us brace ourselves, Signor Fellini, and let us discuss Federico Fellini, just for a change. I know you find it hard: you are so withdrawing, so secretive, so modest. But it is our duty to discuss him, for the sake of the nation." She goes on in this vein until Fellini cuts her off, saying, "Nasty liar. Rude little bitch." In her introduction to the interview, she writes, "I used to be truly fond of Federico Fellini. Since our tragic encounter, I'm a lot less fond. To be exact, I'm no longer fond of him. That is, I don't like him at all. Glory is a heavy burden, a murdering poison, and to bear it is an art. And to have that art is rare." Equally absorbing, in a different way, was the section of her 1969 book, "Nothing, and So Be It," in which she describes the events of October, 1968, in Mexico City, when soldiers shot and bayonetted hundreds of anti-government protesters. Fallaci was detained with a group of students, and was ultimately shot three times. "In war, you've really got a chance sometimes, but here we had none," she writes. "The wall they'd put us up against was a place of execution; if you moved the police would execute you, if you didn't move the soldiers would kill you, and for many nights afterward I was to have this nightmare, the nightmare of a scorpion surrounded by fire, unable even to try to jump through the fire because if it did so it would be pierced through." Dragged down the stairs by her hair and left for dead, Fallaci was ultimately taken to a hospital, where she underwent surgery to remove the bullets. One of the doctors who cared for her came close and murmured, "Write all you've seen. Write it!" She did, becoming a crucial witness to a massacre that the Mexican government denied for years.

    These pieces showed Fallaci in her prime. In her e-mail, however, she told me that she didn't really remember the interview with Fellini—only that she didn't like him. And her memories of Mexico City in 1968 had largely devolved into a dislike of Mexicans. Fallaci's virtues are the virtues that shine most brightly in stark circumstances: the ferocious courage, and the willingness to say anything, that can amount to a life force. But Fallaci never convinced me that Europe's encounter with immigration is that sort of circumstance.

    Not that it would matter to her. "You've got to get old, because you have nothing to lose," she said over lunch that afternoon. "You have this respectability that is given to you, more or less. But you don't give a damn. It is the ne plus ultra of freedom. And things that I didn't used to say before—you know, there is in each of us a form of timidity, of cautiousness—now I open my big mouth. I say, 'What are you going to do to me? You go fuck yourself—I say what I want.' "



     

    Sniffing Danger

    Lars Klove

    (0)Do not inhale; (*)Inoffensive, (**)Eminently sniffable; (***)Breathtaking; (****)Total nose job; (*****)Transcendent.

    September 17, 2006
    Scent Strip

    Sniffing Danger

    When it comes to men's fragrance, creativity is rare. Men are generally offered infinite clones of that numbing, visionless spice-citrus-and-burnt-aluminum-can-metallic cliché. Still, there are a few originals, like Slatkin & Company's Absinthe, whose strength is its enigmatic, singular intelligence. Absinthe doesn't actually smell like absinthe; it's merely the idea of a poisonous, addictive liqueur with a literary past. In fact, in the hands of Slatkin's talented young perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, Absinthe is a blunt instrument: you smell the 1800's Parisian bar, the fermented wormwood, the rich scarlet velvet curtains, and then you get the slam in the back of the throat as the poison goes down. Slatkin is smart enough not to genderize its scents, but men will wear Absinthe for its heightened reality. Danger, after all, is something men sniff out. And this heady elixir is legal.

    Just marketing an iris scent for men (the flower's smell is a total synthetic conceit and one usually reserved for women) was an act of creativity. But Dior Homme is also subtle and spectacular. Iris, handled correctly, is liquid good taste. Bois d'Iris by the Different Company is an austere iris, and Iris Poudre by Pierre Bourdon for Frédéric Malle is a velvet iris. All are breathtaking. In Dior Homme, its perfumer, Olivier Polge, has used a light, assured, masterly touch to turn out an iris that has the grace of a Japanese maple and the careful, muscular cool of a leopard.

    Who was the genius at Versace who hired the perfumer Jean-Pierre Béthouart to conjure the Dreamer? Béthouart has worked magic here, taking Versace's genetics — its petulant Italian machismo — and adding technical virtuosity (the stuff diffuses perfectly on the skin) to create the scent you'd get if it were possible to combine sugar, steel and graphite. The Dreamer startles you. It's strangely mouthwatering, like a French pastry crossed with a Thai spice (caramel lemongrass?). Then there's the hint of ice cream, gunpowder, star fruit, hot cocoa and blood-orange peel crushed on wet rock. There is more creativity in a thimbleful of the Dreamer than in a gallon of almost anything else.


  • Books About Football, A Video Business Model, Healthy Eating Habits,The Decline and Fall of Truth

    Monday, September 18, 2006

    THE GREATEST STORY EVER SOLD

    September 17, 2006    
    Ray Bartkus

     

    September 17, 2006

    Theater of War

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    THE GREATEST STORY EVER SOLD

    The Decline and Fall of Truth From 9/11 to Katrina.

    By Frank Rich.

    341 pp. The Penguin Press. $25.95.

    As a former theater critic, Frank Rich has the perfect credentials for writing an account of the Bush administration, which has done so much to blur the lines between politics and show business. Not that this is a unique phenomenon; think of Silvio Berlusconi, the media mogul and master of political fictions, or Ronald Reagan, who often appeared to be genuinely confused about the difference between real life and the movies. Show business has always been an essential part of ruling people, and so is the use of fiction, especially when going to war. What would Hitler have been without his vicious fantasies fed to a hungry public through grand spectacles, radio and film? Closer to home, in 1964, to justify American intervention in Vietnam, Lyndon B. Johnson used news of an attack in the Gulf of Tonkin that never took place. What is fascinating about the era of George W. Bush, however, is that the spinmeisters, fake news reporters, photo-op creators, disinformation experts, intelligence manipulators, fictional heroes and public relations men posing as commentators operate in a world where virtual reality has already threatened to eclipse empirical investigation.

    Remember that White House aide, quoted by Rich in his introduction, who said that a "judicious study of discernible reality" is "not the way the world really works anymore"? For him, the "reality-based community" of newspapers and broadcasters is old hat, out of touch, even contemptible in "an empire" where "we create our own reality." This kind of official arrogance is not new, of course, although it is perhaps more common in dictatorships than in democracies. What is disturbing is the way it matches so much else going on in the world: postmodern debunking of objective truth, bloggers and talk radio blowhards driving the media, news organizations being taken over by entertainment corporations and the profusion of ever more sophisticated means to doctor reality.

    Rich's subject is the creation of false reality. "The Greatest Story Ever Sold" is not about policies, or geopolitical analysis. The pros and cons of removing Saddam Hussein by force, the consequences of American military intervention in the Middle East and the threat of Islamist extremism are given scant attention. The author, an Op-Ed columnist for The New York Times, has his liberal views, which are not strikingly original. I happen to agree with him that Karl Rove and George Bush manipulated public fear and wartime patriotism to win elections, and that Dick Cheney and his neocon cheerleaders favored a war in Iraq long before 9/11 "to jump-start a realignment of the Middle East." Whether Rich is right to say that this has "little or nothing to do with the stateless terrorism of Al Qaeda" is debatable. The neocons may well have believed that an American remake of the Middle East was the best way to tackle terrorism.

    They were almost certainly mistaken. But the point of Rich's fine polemic is that the Bush administration has consistently lied about the reasons for going to war, about the way it was conducted and about the terrible consequences. Whatever the merits of removing a dictator, waging war under false pretenses is highly damaging to a democracy, especially when one of the ostensible aims is to spread democracy to others. If Rich is correct, which I think he is, the Bush administration has given hypocrisy a bad name.

    This is how the war was sold: We were told by Dick Cheney in late 2001 that an official Iraqi connection with the 9/11 terrorist Mohamed Atta was "pretty well confirmed." In the summer of 2002, Cheney said that Saddam Hussein "continues to pursue a nuclear weapon" and that there was "no doubt" he had "weapons of mass destruction." The vice president mentioned aluminum tubes (they had been reported on by Michael R. Gordon and Judith Miller in The New York Times), which Hussein would use "to enrich uranium to build a nuclear weapon." This uranium, we were told, had been procured by the Iraqis from Niger. President Bush, in October 2002, said, "Facing clear evidence of peril, we cannot wait for the final proof — the smoking gun — that could come in the form of a mushroom cloud."

    We now know that none of these claims, which together constituted the official reason for unleashing a war, were even remotely true. The later excuses about honest beliefs based on faulty intelligence would have been more convincing if a memo had not surfaced from the British government, quoting the head of British intelligence as saying that the Bush administration had made sure that "the intelligence and facts" about the W.M.D.'s "were being fixed around the policy" of going to war. He said this in July 2002, eight months before the invasion of Iraq. Even without the memo, it has long been clear that some of the United States government's own analysts had cast severe doubts on the reasons for going to war.

    Yet — and this is where Rich is particularly acute — most serious papers published the White House claims on their front pages, and buried any doubts in small news items at the back. Political weeklies with a liberal pedigree, like The New Republic, fell in line with the neoconservative Weekly Standard, stating that the president would be guilty of "surrender in the war on international terrorism" should he fail to make an effort to topple Saddam Hussein. Bob Woodward, the scourge of the Nixon administration, wrote "Bush at War," a book that seemed to take everything his White House sources told him at face value.

    As soon as the fighting began, showbiz kicked in. Already in Afghanistan, the Hollywood producer Jerry Bruckheimer had been given access to the troops to make a television series about American bravery, even as reporters from papers like The Washington Post were kept away from the scene. Then in Iraq, heroic stories, like the brave battle of Pfc. Jessica Lynch, were invented and packaged for the press, and those who pointed out the fakery were denounced as leftist malcontents. President Bush dressed up as Tom Cruise in "Top Gun" and landed on an aircraft carrier for a photo op declaring a great victory. And the press, by and large, took the bait.

    How could this have happened? How could some of the best, most fact-checked, most reputable news organizations in the English-speaking world have been so gullible? How can one explain the temporary paralysis of skepticism? This is perhaps the most painful question raised by Rich's book, since his own newspaper was clearly implicated. An air of intimidation, which hung over the United States like a noxious vapor after 9/11, is part of the explanation. Susan Sontag became a national hate figure just for saying that United States foreign policy might have had something to do with violent anti-Americanism. When John Ashcroft declared to the Senate that people who challenged his highly questionable policies "give ammunition to America's enemies," he was simply echoing the ranters and ravers of talk radio. But they are poisonous buffoons. He was the attorney general. No wonder that the mainstream press, after being continuously accused of "liberal bias," preferred to keep its head down.

    Newspaper editors should not have to feel the need to prove their patriotism, or their absence of bias. Their job is to publish what they believe to be true, based on evidence and good judgment. As Rich points out, such journals as The Nation and The New York Review of Books were quicker to see through government shenanigans than the mainstream press. And reporters from Knight Ridder got the story about intelligence fixing right, before The New York Times caught on. "At Knight Ridder," Rich says, "there was a clearer institutional grasp of the big picture."

    Intimidation is only part of the story, however. The changing nature of gathering and publishing information has made mainstream journalists unusually defensive. That more people than ever are now able to express their views, on radio shows and Web sites, is perhaps a form of democracy, but it has undermined the authority of editors, whose expertise was meant to act as a filter against nonsense or prejudice. And the deliberate confusion, on television, of news and entertainment has done further damage.

    The Republicans, being more populist than the Democrats, have exploited this new climate with far greater finesse. Accusing the media of bias is an act of remarkable chutzpah for an administration that pitches its messages straight at radio talk show hosts and public relations men. Rich gives many examples. One of the more arresting ones is of Dick Cheney appearing on a TV show with Armstrong Williams, a fake journalist on the government payroll, to complain about bias in the press. Something has gone askew when one of the most trusted critics of the Bush administration is Jon Stewart, host of a superb comedy program. It was on his "Daily Show" that Rob Corddry, an actor playing a reporter, lamented that he couldn't keep up with the government, which had created "a whole new category of fake news — infoganda." Rich is right: "The more real journalism fumbled its job, the easier it was for such government infoganda to fill the vacuum."

    THERE may be one other reason for the fumbling: the conventional methods of American journalism, marked by an obsession with access and quotes. A good reporter for an American paper must get sources who sound authoritative and quotes that show both sides of a story. His or her own expertise is almost irrelevant. If the opinions of columnists count for too much in the American press, the intelligence of reporters is institutionally underused. The problem is that there are not always two sides to a story. Someone reporting on the persecution of Jews in Germany in 1938 would not have added "balance" by quoting Joseph Goebbels. And besides, as Judith Miller found out, what is the good of quotes if they are based on false information?

    Bob Woodward, one of Rich's chief bêtes noires, has more access in Washington than any journalist, but the weakness of his work is that he never seems to be better than his sources. As Rich rightly observes, "reporters who did not have Woodward's or Miller's top-level access within the administration not only got the Iraq story right but got it into newspapers early by seeking out what John Walcott, the Knight Ridder Washington bureau chief, called 'the blue collar' sources further down the hierarchy." This used to be Woodward's modus operandi, too, in his better days. Fearing the loss of access at the top and overrating the importance of quotes from powerful people, as well as an unjustified terror of being accused of liberal bias, have crippled the press at a time when it is needed more than ever. Frank Rich is an excellent product of that press, and if it ever recovers its high reputation, it will be partly thanks to one man who couldn't take it anymore.

    Ian Buruma is the Henry Luce professor at Bard College. His latest book is "Murder in Amsterdam: The Death of Theo van Gogh and the Limits of Tolerance."


     

    The Right to Chew On Healthy Food Habits

    Biblio File

    The Right to Chew

    James Wojcik
     
    February 26, 2006
    Biblio File

    The Right to Chew

    Back in the days when I lived in Paris, the so-called French paradox was often in the news, and the medical establishment was then, as now, at a loss to account for it. My American friends and I didn't care how it worked, but we invoked it often, fingers crossed. Mostly, we used it to justify another oozing wedge of Camembert, telling ourselves that the Bordeaux would cancel out the cholesterol. The fact that Frenchwomen don't get fat (to borrow the title of Mireille Guiliano's best-selling book) did not escape our notice, but it never occurred to us that their example might be exported, much less packaged and sold as a whole new wave of diet advice. Hard on Guiliano's heels are the books "Japanese Women Don't Get Old or Fat" (Delacorte Press), by Naomi Moriyama and William Doyle, and the forthcoming "Mediterranean Women Stay Slim, Too" (HarperCollins), by Melissa Kelly (with Eve Adamson).

    The gist of these congenial, well-meaning books is that if only Americans ate like people do in (name of country here), they'd be thinner, healthier and happier. It's an appealing idea — optimistic, romantic and, if I may say so, so American in its supposition that people can make themselves into the person they'd like to be, at will. As if, now that the world is one big village, we could pick and choose from an international smorgasbord of personality traits: German precision, Dutch tolerance, French elegance, Italian spontaneity. Kelly contends that "the Mediterranean lifestyle is about pleasure and passion, feeling good and embracing life." Who in their right mind wouldn't sign up for that?

    It would be hard to argue with the wisdom these self-appointed experts have to offer. The recipes are pragmatic and welcome, if naïve on occasion (no one, it seems, has apprised Guiliano of how hard it is to find celery root in New York, much less in the rest of the country). The exhortations to steer clear of foods that have been processed and to eat plenty of fruits, vegetables, whole grains and healthful fats are by now familiar but, I suppose, worth repeating. The "secret" to the way of life Guiliano and Kelly are advocating is, in a word, moderation. If only we allowed ourselves to eat the foods we consider forbidden, they would make us feel content and sated, which would in turn prompt us to stop eating sooner. "Most Americans," Guiliano contends, "eat at least 10 to 30 percent more than needed, not to survive but to satisfy psychological hunger." What these authors fail to take into account is that the way we eat is more than mere force of habit — something William Leith has figured out the hard way.

    In "The Hungry Years" (Gotham Books), Leith has written a memoir of his own struggles with compulsive eating. The binges, he understands, are merely the symptom. "I'm fat, and I hate being fat, but there is something else, something I believe is worse than being fat, something I can't bear to think about. What is it?" Though his epiphany is ultimately not terribly astonishing to anyone who has undergone a round of psychotherapy, his candor, his curiosity and his skepticism come as a relief after Guiliano's and Kelly's more prescriptive approaches. Of the three, only Leith acknowledges that the crisis lies not only with the individual but also with the larger context of the culture: "More is our creed, here in the greedy West," he writes. And yet, it's a great big place, the West, complex and diverse enough to encompass France and all those other Mediterranean countries where women don't get fat.

    If Guiliano and Kelly underestimate how hard it is to emulate the way people of another culture go about their lives, perhaps it's because the behavior they're promoting is in keeping with the traditions in which they were raised — Guiliano, in France; Kelly, as the granddaughter of an Italian butcher on Long Island. Neither seems to have considered the possibility that the pernicious cycle of crash dieting and binge eating, which has tyrannized so many Americans, may in fact have come about as a result of certain beliefs that we hold dear and take for granted.

    When I moved to Paris, I set out to learn what Frenchwomen knew in their bones: I would study them and imitate them — their legendary aptitude for seduction, their capacity for moderation, their sense of style — until I had acquired their skills. I left Paris six years later, with a few new scarf tricks and a sense of resignation: it was, I decided, futile to try to graft their behavior onto mine. Living in another country, you are constantly confronted with the fact that, for better or for worse, your personality has been shaped by certain assumptions that you never even consciously adopted — you just inhaled them in the air that you grew up breathing back home.

    Take self-denial, to name just one example. Of the people in my immediate circle: Lisa has cut out carbohydrates, to keep her weight under control. Dan has eliminated wheat, because, he says, it makes him bloated. Michael has stopped drinking, to achieve "clarity." Christine swore off dairy products after reading a book that blamed them for causing breast cancer. Lynn is seeing a nutritionist, who asked her whether there were any foods she craved. "Chocolate," she said. He then banned chocolate from her diet, because, he explained, the food you love the most is the food that you're allergic to. As for me, I figured I'd be thinner if I didn't eat cheese. "Can you explain to me," a bewildered Italian friend asked, "this American penchant for giving things up?"

    That denying oneself pleasure can be perversely gratifying is something we understand all too well. My European friends chalk it up to our Puritan heritage. In my case, a Calvinist upbringing picked up where the Puritans left off. Whether out of guilt or self-loathing, or both, I learned early on to deny myself whatever it was I longed for. A doughnut, or peanut butter, or a slice of toast was a small price to pay for the thrill of empowerment. Self-abnegation proved to be so addictive that by 17 I was anorexic, high on my capacity to override an urge as primal as hunger. Underlying this exercise is a suspicious, if not downright antagonistic, relationship with one's self: the notion that, given free rein, permitted to follow our instincts, we would inevitably self-destruct. Which is where the bingeing comes in.

    Living in France and Italy, I came to the conclusion, however reluctantly, that though these all-or-nothing extremes aren't peculiar to America (Leith is English, after all), America has in many ways proven the perfect incubator for them. The Land of Opportunity is, by extension, the Land of Unlimited Possibility, where the tradition of reinventing ourselves is practically written into the Constitution. We need to believe that life is a level playing field, despite blatant evidence to the contrary. The most average guy can be elected president. Celebrity and wealth are everybody's birthright. Here, anything can happen, and our lives can change overnight. You can leave the past behind, move to another city, change your hair color, change your name and start all over. You could win the lottery. You could get discovered. Hope springs not only eternal but irrational. All mitigating traces of the past, reminding us of failure and decay, are wiped away. No wonder we think that we can get away with excess. Tomorrow is the first day of the rest of our lives. It's a clean slate every morning.

    Except, of course, that it's not.

    My European friends routinely refer to the United States as a "young" country, the implication being not only that our civilization hasn't been around as long as theirs but also that there's something immature in our outlook on the world. I always bristled at this, and yet I have to admit they have a point. Our collective behavior is often more adolescent than adult — reckless, refusing to acknowledge our own mortality or that even the smallest decision has ramifications. Forever young.

    "I heard an item on the radio the other day," Leith recalls, "in which an obesity expert was asked, 'If the government could do one thing to stop the obesity crisis, what would it be?' The man paused, and said, 'That's the trouble. There is no one thing you can do. You have to do ... everything."'

    As Leith observes, "If it's successful, a diet merely makes you temporarily look like a person who doesn't have your problems." In a society overrun with images of movie stars and supermodels, that's enough for most people.

    Until, of course, it's not.


    A Video Business Model Ready to Move Beyond Beta

    Paul Sakuma/Associated Press

    Steven P. Jobs, Apple's chief executive, announced the company's long-awaited online movie service last week and showed off a new device that will allow users to watch Web videos

    September 17, 2006
    Media Frenzy

    A Video Business Model Ready to Move Beyond Beta

    It is wholly unclear which, if any, of these or any of the dozens of other recent efforts that have been announced will break away from the pack, which is why many of them are couched as "tests" and "experiments." (Whoever thought up this idea of Web sites forever being in "beta" deserves a prize as the spinmeister of their generation.)

    Still, a few things are clear from the recent news flow. First of all: yes, the world has gone batty over video. Thirty-second clips, three-minute spoofs, half-hour sitcoms, TV dramas that haven't been shown in decades, rap videos, Hollywood blockbusters and feeds from TV news outlets big and small are flooding online. The term video itself is already starting to sound old — the equivalent of songs before the advent of MP3's and downloads.

    The good news — and my second point — is that there's gold in them there hills. Video delivered over the Internet is clearly shaping up to be an actual business that advertisers are interested in. The broadcasting (netcasting?) of television programs and clips on the Web moves the debate away from Internet-versus-TV because if TV executives put their best material online and get paid for it, the proposition becomes Internet-cum-TV.

    The research firm eMarketer estimates that video-related advertising will top $2.3 billion within four years. And let's not forget that Google is on track to exceed $7 billion in revenue this year — and that is predominantly from old-fashioned, Yellow Pages-style text ads. Heck, they don't even have pictures, let alone moving images.

    Much attention has been focused on the economics of selling digital versions of Hollywood movies (like in Amazon's new Unbox service) as an alternative to DVD sales and rentals and to stem piracy. But what has yet to be exploited — what Google, Yahoo and many other aggregators are vying for — are pieces of the $60 billion or so that will be spent on television advertising in the United States this year.

    NBC's new syndication business, dubbed NBBC, for National Broadband Company, promises to match up content creators with Web sites that might be interested in showing the video. All three parties will get to take a cut of the embedded advertising revenue. There is much to quibble with about the way NBBC came out of the gate; its executives dissed most blogs as unworthy of their content and sneered at the homemade content that is proliferating on YouTube.

    On the other hand, any video service using NBBC is nonexclusive, so there is really no reason not to use it (which explains why little corners of NBC competitors like Fox and CBS are participating in the NBBC rollout, through their IGN.com and CSTV businesses, respectively).

    Some aspects of the NBBC concept can lead to head-scratching. If I have a great piece of video on my Web site, for instance, is it more valuable to syndicate it through NBBC or to just have it spread virally across the Web? A simple link will take people to the video and any ad accompanying it for free. But that's why it's an experiment.

    The clever thing about NBBC, though, is that it's an entirely new business — to the extent it will distribute other companies' programs — that is designed to bring in new money. Even if free advertiser-supported video on the Web takes off, it's far from clear whether those ad dollars will be greater than the dollars NBC may lose from viewers who will no longer watch its show on regular TV, or download or DVD and so on.

    Which brings us to Apple's potential convergence-buster, dubbed iTV (the name is — you guessed it — beta). Betting against Steven P. Jobs has not been a sound proposition in recent years, but there are plenty of reasons to be skeptical about whether iTV, which doesn't actually exist yet, will have the technological wherewithal or enough compelling content to matter. But it does draw people closer to a world where inexpensive liquid crystal displays will moot the long-running debate about convergence because people will just plug in their cable or Internet or Wi-Fi and do what they please.

    "The real win here is in high-value, high-quality, high-definition content on your TV set," said Josh Bernoff, a vice president at Forrester Research. "To do that is going to require more than what Amazon and frankly more than what Apple is doing. We're still waiting for that device."

    Or maybe it's here and we just can't afford it. TiVo last week brought to market its Series 3 digital recording box, which appears to have the ability to do everything from record in high-definition to take video files through a broadband Internet connection either directly or wirelessly. At $799, however, it's the most expensive TiVo toy yet.

    And if you want to really — really — get your hands on as much video as one could possibly enjoy, may I recommend the new DirecTV Titanium service? Introduced recently as the ultimate luxury for anyone who calls their home a "crib" with a straight face, it's basically everything the satellite provider has to give for a flat fee of $7,500 a year.

    That means every regular, pay and high-definition channel, every sports package, pay-per-view movies (at no cost), and a whole bunch of tuners and digital video recorders to do with as you please. There is also 24-hour a day "concierge" service for technical help and anything else.

    Best of all, none of it is in beta.


     

    Books About Football

     
    Chistopher Griffih
     
    September 17, 2006
    Biblio File

    Stopping the Clock

    When it comes to sportswriting, George Plimpton famously declared, the smaller the ball, the better the book. He was talking about why books about, say, golf sell more copies than books about football, but the remark inevitably sheds some blame on the fans, confirming as it does the widespread suspicion that for all those barflies reliving their glory days on the high school gridiron, reading is just something you do while you're waiting to see the doctor. I'm a golfer, and I'm a football fan, but I'll take a good book about football over one about golf any day. The characters are more colorful, their language livelier, the conflict more dramatic. When it comes to raw material for making literature, which is more promising: the intrepid hero about to be slammed by a wall of advancing linemen or some hapless protagonist stuck in the fescue?

    Alas, good books about football are few and far between, and this season's entries will not add to their number. The most conspicuous effort is Charles P. Pierce's "Moving the Chains: Tom Brady and the Pursuit of Everything" (Farrar, Straus and Giroux), which follows on the heels of "The Education of a Coach" (Hyperion), David Halberstam's portrait of Bill Belichick, published last year. It would take a die-hard Patriots fan to rate either one a page turner. Both are characterized by a curious absence at the core, leaving most of the talking to friends, family and players while the guest of honor puts in a perfunctory appearance, then slips away before the reader has a chance to shake his hand. We come away knowing neither man any better but armed with information, much of it gratuitous if not uninteresting. For anyone familiar with their public personalities — the earnest quarterback eager to give credit to his teammates, the cerebral, self-effacing coach — Brady's friendship with Donald Trump seems as incomprehensible as Belichick's with Jon Bon Jovi.

    Pierce is a graceful writer, and the reader is grateful for the occasional flourish: his thumbnail sketch of Mel Kiper Jr., the most prominent "clipboard" during the 2000 draft, as "a man with the statistical mind of a savant beneath the immovable coiffure of a lounge act"; his summary of the New England fans' assessment of Peyton Manning "as little more than a statistical show pony."

    Halberstam is at his best conveying Belichick's concerted drabness: "The voice on his phone message — 'Sorry to have missed your call' — was singularly flat, as if he might be apprenticing to be an undertaker, and it seems not at all sorry to have missed your call, and might in fact be delighted to miss it once again."

    As likenesses go, these extended portraits are skillful enough, but neither provides the sustained thrill that great writing about football can induce, the exhilaration brought on by the sort of spectacular wordplay in which Plimpton engages in "Paper Lion: Confessions of a Last-String Quarterback" (Harper & Row). Published in 1965, this account of a fan's fantasy come true, in which the author undergoes training camp with the Detroit Lions and takes the field in a scrimmage, has ascended to the rank of a classic. It would be hard to find a more engaging cast than Plimpton's teammates, among them the relentlessly entertaining Night Train Lane; from the phonograph in Lane's room in the evening comes the sound of Dinah Washington, his wife, singing the blues. Plimpton's writing is infectious and vivid, the words forming one indelible snapshot after another: the Green Bay cornerback who intercepted a Detroit pass and "slipped down the sidelines in front of the Packer bench, all of them jumping insanely as if on pogo sticks"; the local kid who would hang around waiting to be thrown the ball after practice and then "would chug down under it and haul it in like a man catching a suitcase tossed out a window."

    Football players are just like other people, as it turns out, at least in one respect: few, if any, are capable of telling the rest of us what it's like to be them. For that you need "a scribe," as Roy Blount Jr. calls himself during the season (1973) that he spends embedded with the Steelers. The result is an outstanding literary performance, "About Three Bricks Shy of a Load," which has been rereleased by University of Pittsburgh Press, with the addition of another decade's worth of pieces about the team and a slightly tweaked title. (The Steelers, I admit, are my team, but I would love this book if it were about the Cowboys, and that's really saying something.) Nobody does a better job of depicting the action at close range, from the field. "You can't see the game down there, but you can feel it," Blount writes. And so can we, when we're down there with him, watching Super Bowl X from the end zone: "The Steelers hit the Dallas line three times, thud thud thud. There was one flash of personality, when Franco Harris (who emerges from a game, reasonably enough, with the expression of a sensitive person who has just been beaten and pursued by vicious assailants) plunged, took a hit, fumbled up into the air, looked up at the ball as an unusually collected man might look up at his arm just blown away, and snatched it back. Then several bodies buried him. The rest of it looked like a lot of cows falling off a truck."

    As fans, we know what it feels like to exult in our team's victory. But how much more powerful must that be for the players? When, in 1975, a year after Blount's book was published, the Steelers return triumphant from their first Super Bowl, he lands with the team at the Pittsburgh airport at 1:15 a.m. and carries us along with him on a tide of euphoria, from the gate through the baggage area and on out into the parking lot, along a corridor through a horde of 10,000 fans. "They were all cheering. They were reaching out hands to shake. I shook them all. Women sitting on friends' shoulders were bending down to kiss my head. People were yelling, 'Great game!' ... It was like heaven, everybody happy, everybody loving you ... It went on and on, through the warm, bright airport out into the cold, dark lot, as though it were going to go on forever, through day and night and all the seasons, and one person toward the end even recognized me for what I was and (rather than snorting 'You're no player') cried out, 'Great book!"' Great book.


  • Pope Apologizes, Iraq Stumbling Police Forces, Giorgio Armani

    What Makes Giorgio Run?

    September 15, 2006    
    Nadav Kander
    September 17, 2006

    What Makes Giorgio Run?

    When Bono edited a special issue of the British newspaper The Independent this summer, he sent a copy to Giorgio Armani with an inscription scrawled around the front page. "Señor Armani," it read. "You are an inspiration to me to not let go of detail and control of ideas and aesthetic. Only to God must we let go. A blessing ... Bono."

    Addressing the most famous living Italian as a Spanish "señor" and not "signore" doesn't augur well for Bono's future as a control freak. But, for all his charming Irish blarney, Bono, the lead singer of U2, had one thing right: no one could ever accuse Giorgio Armani of letting go.

    Take the scene backstage at the Emporio Armani men's show in Milan last June. The models lined up while Armani put the finishing touches to their makeup. They lined up again while he knotted neckties, adjusted the angle of hats, ruffled handkerchiefs in top pockets and fussed over buttons. Then he showed each one exactly how to pose. Once they'd hit the runway, Armani, a lithe 72 in his summer uniform of a tight navy blue T-shirt and baggy shorts, raced to the entrance, where he scrutinized the show on a plasma screen. Whenever he spotted something amiss, Armani pointed it out to a colleague, who sprinted off to correct it.

    He isn't just like this at show time. "I've never met anyone whose attention to detail is so obsessive," notes Ron Frasch, the vice chairman of Saks Fifth Avenue. "He personally approves every necktie, every swatch of fabric. If you think of all the products his company puts out each year, that's incredible."

    Famous photographers who arrive to take his portrait must do it Armani's way, right down to the lighting. Art directors are told exactly how to produce his ads. Musicians arrive for fittings to discover that Armani himself will be doing the pinning. Before the opening of the Teatro Armani building in Milan, its architect, Tadao Ando, remembers Armani checking the angle and sightline of each of the 558 seats. Pauline Denyer, the wife of the fashion designer Paul Smith, reports a sighting of him sweeping the sidewalk outside one of his Milan boutiques. The furniture designer Mario Bellini, who has lived next door to Armani on Via Borgonuovo in Milan for more than 20 years, observes: "Our neighbors say that every morning he wakes up, runs down the street to look at the windows of his stores on Via Manzoni. He makes a mental note of everything that's wrong, and tells his staff."

    That sort of dedication has paid off. After 30 years of extraordinary success, Giorgio Armani will go down in history as the man who defined the working wardrobe of the late-20th century and taught Hollywood how to dress. As the president, chief executive and sole shareholder of a company that generated 5 billion euros (about $6.4 billion) in retail sales last year, he is the world's wealthiest fashion designer, with a fortune estimated by Forbes at $4.5 billion. Ask a fashionista to name the most important designer working today, and she'll probably say Nicolas Ghesquière, of Balenciaga (at least she would this season). But if you asked anyone else — that's the 99.9 percent of the population who buy clothes, rather than design, style or write about them — they'd say Giorgio Armani. "Like all the truly great designers in fashion history, Giorgio Armani is about style, not fashion," observes Franca Sozzani, the editor in chief of Italian Vogue. "They find their style, and they stick to it, and that's what he has done."

    For all his wealth and fame, Armani still subjects himself every six months to the masochistic ritual of reassessment by the fashion press. He spends his days in meeting after meeting after meeting. He rarely walks, as if to do so would waste valuable time, but races from place to place chased by flustered assistants. Like their boss, they are dressed as if fresh from the gym, where Signore Armani, as they call him, works out for at least an hour each day. This, too, has paid off. Armani looks astonishingly buff for his age, despite his white hair and the deep wrinkles etched beneath his tan. The wrinkles lend character to his delicate features, but what you remember most from Armani's face are his searing, ice-blue eyes.

    "Do I ever think of retiring?" he asks, repeating my question over lunch in Milan. "Yes. Some mornings I think, That's it. I'll visit my houses, sail my boat, go to the country, walk my dogs and buy Picassos. But that would mean the end, because my life is to work. My life would be empty. What would I do? I couldn't travel with people my own age, because I have absolutely no inclination to spend time with old men and women. I much prefer to be around young people who challenge me. They keep me sharp and in touch with what's happening. That's why I carry on."

    But what is the future of a company owned and run by a 72-year-old control freak? However profitable the brand and however smart and focused its founder (and Armani is preternaturally endowed with both qualities, as anyone unlucky enough to have negotiated with him will attest), the question is unavoidable. "The future is my biggest challenge," admits Armani, who founded his business with his boyfriend 31 years ago by selling their Volkswagen Bug. "And I'm addressing it now." But he's been saying that for years.

    To understand Giorgio Armani, and why he is so driven, you have to go to Piacenza, the dour industrial city in the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy where he was born in 1934. There's an Italian saying that if a stranger goes to Romagna, he or she would be given a glass of wine, but in Emilia, he would be lucky to get a glass of water; Piacenza is in Emilia.

    Life there was especially hard during Armani's childhood. He was 5 when World War II began, and the local factories became a target of Allied bombing raids. His mother took him to live in a nearby village with his older brother, Sergio, and younger sister Rosanna, while their father stayed behind to work in the offices of Mussolini's Fascist Party. Some of Armani's friends were killed in the raids, and he and Rosanna had a close call when they spotted a bomber. "We jumped into a hole beside the road and hid beneath my jacket," he says.

    After the war, he was badly injured by a land mine. A friend died, and Armani was hospitalized for 40 days. "I looked so horrible that when a friend came to see me, he fainted with shock," recalls Armani, whose eyesight was permanently weakened. The family suffered financially when Armani's father found himself out of work and condemned as a collaborator: "When I first saw the Italian neorealist films, I didn't enjoy them at all. I'd lived the life, and I didn't like to be reminded of it."

    The dominant force in the family was Armani's mother, Mariù. "We were a happy, loving family, but my mother was tough, very tough," he says. "One night my parents went out, and so was my brother, leaving my sister and me alone in the house. I'd seen a film that had frightened me, and I couldn't stop thinking about it. When my parents came back, I was crying. My mother said, 'What's wrong, Giò?' When I told her, she slapped me. I wasn't scared after that. She said very little, but her words were well chosen. I'm just like her."

    Armani did well at school and won a place to study medicine at university. After serving in the military for two years, he abandoned his studies and in 1957 found a job as a display assistant and buyer at La Rinascente in Milan, then one of Europe's chicest department stores. Shortly afterward, he fell in love with the architect Sergio Galeotti. Gabriella Forte, who met the couple in 1979 and worked for Armani until 1994, recalls: "Everything about Sergio was so elegant. The way he spoke, his posture, his clothes, his laughter, everything. And he spoke with such love of Giorgio."

    After seven years at La Rinascente, learning about window dressing and merchandising, Armani joined the men's-wear designer Nino Cerruti, where he was drilled in tailoring and production.

    In 1975 Galeotti persuaded Armani, then 40, to start his own label for both men and women. He would run the business, while Armani designed. Unusual for a designer, his work was equally appealing to both men and women, but Armani was blessed with luck as well as talent.

    By the mid-70's, the influence of the French couturiers, who had dominated global fashion since Christian Dior unveiled his New Look in 1947, was waning. Locked in the couture tradition, the French clothing industry had not adapted to the expansion of the ready-to-wear market in the the late 60's. The glittering exception was Yves Saint Laurent, but by the mid-70's his health was declining.

    Italian manufacturers decided to fill the vacuum by investing in local designers, and did so on unusually favorable terms. They financed production and marketing and paid the designers a percentage of the profits. New designers like Armani and Gianni Versace could begin their businesses free from debt, with ambitious fashion shows and advertising campaigns. Armani and Galeotti did a deal with one of the biggest manufacturers, GFT.

    Like most new designers, Armani wanted to dress people his own age, and when he was 40, his taste was more conservative than that of the typical designer ingénue. He drew inspiration from the fashions of his youth, the 1930's and 40's. "People were so elegant and proper then," he recalls. "I hated the styles of the 1960's and 1970's. Women in miniskirts looking like roast pigs with fat legs." As youth culture erupted in punk nihilism, Armani unveiled what would become his signature style: a soft, deconstructed suit. He took the business uniform of the day, which was stiff and heavily structured — another legacy of the French couture tradition — and removed the stiffness, as Neapolitan tailors had done for years in the light suits they created for the Mediterranean heat.

    He refined their deconstructed tailoring by finessing the cut, developing beautiful fabrics and experimenting with new styles of collars, fastenings and cuffs. Armani feminized men's tailoring, using cuts and fabrics traditionally reserved for women, while adding the same ease to women's wear but with an elegant authority. He targeted the largest and most affluent part of the market — the over-35 crowd — where there was less competition and a genuine need for change.

    What we now think of as classic Armani — his studied simplicity — was reflected in the work of contemporary Italian furniture designers like Bellini and Vico Magistretti. His use of neutral colors — beiges, grays and blacks — and muted patterns was evocative of Milanese architecture and, more particularly, the lowlands around Piacenza, where, observes Carlo Antonelli, the editor in chief of the Italian edition of Rolling Stone, "there is a strange light and a strange mist."

    Armani insisted on creating his own advertising, helped by his sister Rosanna and inspired by images from his favorite Visconti and Bertolucci movies. Armed with GFT's investment, they booked the back page of every issue of L'Uomo Vogue magazine. "As soon as it arrived, I'd turn to the Armani ad," Paul Smith remembers. "His techniques were radical for the time. He treated fabric in ways that no one had done before. My wife, Pauline, was teaching fashion design, and her students begged to see what he'd done next."

    The L'Uomo Vogue ads so impressed Fred Pressman, the owner of Barneys New York, that, in 1976, he phoned the Italian Trade Commission in New York trying to track down Armani and spoke with Forte, who was working there. "I had no clue who Giorgio Armani was, but I found his name in the Milan telephone directory," she says. "It was 5 p.m. in New York, and I dialed totally forgetting that it was 11 p.m. in Milan. Sergio said: 'I don't know when we'll be in New York, we have a lot going on.' I didn't realize that they'd just started and had very little going on." Barneys placed a large order, and Forte later joined Armani, first to develop the United States retail business and then, after 1985, to be his right hand worldwide.

    Another stroke of luck was a call from the filmmaker Paul Schrader, an Armani customer at Maxfield in Hollywood. He asked whether Armani would do John Travolta's wardrobe for his next movie, "American Gigolo." Armani agreed, only to have to alter the clothes when Travolta dropped out and was replaced by a then-unknown named Richard Gere. Louche and sexy, Gere was perfectly cast for the narcissism of the moment — after disco but before AIDS, when gym culture was taking off and even straight men were losing their hang-ups about being seen to look good. In one scene, the bare-chested Gere bops around his bedroom composing outfits of lush Armani suits with color-coordinated shirts and ties. It was a priceless advertisement.

    The brand hit the mainstream when the economy was buoyant and a new breed of executive was emerging: young, urban professionals, who adopted Armani as their uniform. In 1982, Time magazine ran a cover article on "Giorgio's Gorgeous Style." Success in the United States made Armani a hero in Italy, where, after the trauma of 1970's terrorism, he was hailed as a catalyst of the country's economic resurgence.

    By the mid-80's, he and Galeotti could exercise more control over the way the collection was promoted and sold. Like other Italian labels, Armani demanded favorable coverage from magazines in return for advertising, a practice that designers in other countries soon adopted. He also told department stores how to design their sales areas and imposed quotas on the orders, insisting that a specific proportion was spent on new pieces shown on the runway, with the remainder on classic designs. "You couldn't go in and say, 'I want so many jackets, and this and that,"' recalls Ron Frasch, who was then at Neiman Marcus. "They decided how you bought and presented the collection. And you couldn't say no. Mr. Armani was it."

    Armani and Galeotti enjoyed their newfound wealth. They bought a holiday home on the island of Pantelleria and rented a palazzo to house their apartment and the business. Armani bought a house for his mother, his father having died in 1960. "I gave her a life that she could never have imagined with a housekeeper, a chauffeur and a dog. One day she said to me, 'Giorgio, thank you, but it's too late."'

    In 1985, Galeotti died. Not only did Armani have to cope with the loss of his partner of nearly 30 years, but he also had to learn how to run a global business from scratch: "Sometimes it was very, very difficult to have to handle things on my own, but Sergio wouldn't have wanted someone else to take his place." Armani says that his biggest problem was dealing with lawyers: "It was as if they were speaking a secret language. But I learned. Eventually I had the confidence to tell the lawyer who'd worked for me for years that he was too expensive."

    Today it is hard to imagine that he ever faltered. As the global luxury industry has expanded, so has Armani, which now owns more than 350 stores worldwide and employs nearly 5,000 people. The company has moved into new countries, notably China and Russia, and new markets, from Armani Jeans at one end of the price scale to the Armani Privé couture collection at the other. It has also expanded into new product sectors, like Armani Casa and cosmetics. Next up is a range of skin-care products and a luxury hotel chain. Armani is even tapping into the burgeoning market for conscientious consumption through his involvement with American Express, Motorola and the Gap on the launch of the Red range of products, a percentage of whose profits will be donated to the Global Fund for AIDS.

    Armani's discipline and steeliness have served him well in business. "He has tremendous clarity of vision," notes Alexander Vreeland, the president of the GAV apparel company, who worked for Armani in the 1990's. "I've sat with him in meetings dealing with a broad spectrum of complex business issues, and he demonstrated an incredible grasp of detail and innovative solutions."

    The designer has also acquired a taste for cutting deals. "I really enjoy it," he says with relish. "I don't look like a businessman, or dress like one, and that's an advantage, because it throws my opponents." When GFT hit a rough spot, Armani bought up the factories that made his products. Three years ago he severed one of his oldest and most profitable licensees with Luxottica, the Italian eyewear maker run by Leonardo Del Vecchio. "It had been a great business for us both, but I'd said from the start that I wanted to have the last word on the collection," Armani says. "One day Mr. Del Vecchio came to me saying that he wanted the last word. That was it."

    Armani has eight homes — from a pied-à-terre on Central Park West to a 1950's mansion near Piacenza — but spends almost all of his time in the Via Borgonuovo apartment beside his studio and office. Occasional weekends are spent at his houses in Forte dei Marmi, Portofino and

    St.-Tropez, and he visits Pantelleria every August and the Caribbean at Christmas. He travels with an entourage of employees and relatives, all of whom work for the company: Rosanna, as an art director; her son Andrea, on the commercial side; and Sergio Armani's daughters, Silvana as a designer and Roberta in public relations.

    He has little interest in socializing outside that circle. "I don't feel comfortable with the jet set," he admits. "It just isn't me." At a lunch for his couture clients after the Armani Privé show in Paris last July, Armani spoke politely to the guests at his table in French and Italian (he has never learned English) before darting off to discuss the arrangements for an afternoon meeting with his cosmetics licensee L'Oréal. Armani's employees whisper that he has a fiery temper when things go awry, but in conversation he is crisply polite, though his courtesy sometimes seems like a ploy to dispense with people swiftly. Even in his youth, there was no "lost" period of partying for Armani. The only time he remembers being drunk was at his niece Roberta's wedding. "He was so funny," she recalls, "jumping up to sing 'O Sole Mio' with Bryan Adams." Armani is often spoken of in fashion circles as a forlorn, isolated figure, but he seems more like an exceptionally determined character who has organized his life exactly as he likes it.

    By the otherworldly standards of a multibillionaire, that life is relatively frugal. Deal-making aside, his principal passion is still cinema. Armani's face lights up when he talks about it, calling out to colleagues to remind him of the name of an obscure Roberto Rossellini or Vittorio de Sica picture. "One of the things that connects us is a love of Italian neorealist cinema," says the director Martin Scorsese, who has known Armani since the early 1980's. "He's tremendously knowledgeable about it." Rather than build a screening room, Armani prefers to see movies in local cinemas. "People are always surprised to see me there, but for me part of the pleasure of seeing a film is to watch it with other people," he says. His chief extravagance is the $15 million boat he bought three years ago and has since refitted in his favorite grays and beiges, with matte metalwork and black ropes, and named Mariù after his mother. "He could never quite reconcile himself to having spent so much money on the boat," recounts an employee. "But then he was told that he could charter it." The Mariù has proved so popular — the gallery owner Larry Gagosian holidayed on it this summer — that Armani is designing a second boat to be chartered, too.

    Not everything has worked. The jury is still out on Armani Casa, and we have yet to see an Armani "It" bag, but the disappointments pale beside the achievements. As Fiat and the other industrial dynasties that dominated postwar Italy have declined, Armani has thrived. "He represents the side of Italy that we like to show to the world, the disciplined, hardworking side," observes Mario Bellini. "'King Giorgio,' that's what the Italian newspapers call him."

    The fashion press isn't as obsequious. Editors have always preferred fragile neurasthenics like Yves Saint Laurent, who suffer for their "art," to doughty pragmatists. They also prefer new looks to timelessly elegant classics and complain that Armani never does anything new. That said, the reviews are much more favorable for his classic collections than for creative stretches like last fall's roundly criticized women's silk bloomers. He doesn't help matters by firing off complaints about critical coverage.

    The company is equally highhanded in dealing with retailers, who still have to buy their quota from the runway show alongside the classics, regardless of whether they want to. "Recently there have been some awkward, over-the-top pieces on the runway," says one retailer, who asked not to be named so as not to jeopardize the merchant's relationship with the company. "We're buying them because we have to, but the customers aren't. Thank God that there's a large classic component in the collection." When it comes to retail real estate, Armani is equally inflexible. Says another retailer: "There's a bit of polite Italian banter, but basically they come in and say, 'We want this position, and the fit-out will be like this.' There's no negotiation and no compromise. And there's nothing you can do because the selling power of the Armani brand is so immense. It's just huge."

    Armani's selling power is still increasing — with gross sales, according to company reports, up 10 percent to 1.43 billion euros, or about $1.8 billion, last year. And while the ascent of the personal stylist has ended his dominance on the red carpet, Armani is still the label of choice for the creative establishment. Scorsese loves "the classic simplicity" of his clothes, and for the producer Harvey Weinstein, it's "always Armani for formal occasions." The theater director Robert Wilson says that Armani's designs "make people look good and quiet and feel comfortable."

    To members of the fashion press, that's about as exciting as saying that his clothes last for years, that you get expert service at the Armani counter and that his cuts and cross-weaves cleverly flatter older, plumper figures. Herein lies the dislocation between the fashionista's image of Armani and the public's. Most of the people who buy expensive clothes aren't obsessively cool 20-year-olds; they're years older and pounds heavier. They don't have the time or confidence to aspire to dress fashionably, and as Armani's classics have never let them down, they buy them again. "Armani is a safe bet, and that's what most people want," says the brand consultant Susanne Tide-Frater, a former creative director of Selfridges and Harrods in London.

    "The thing about Giorgio Armani is that he owns sophistication. No one else in the market does."

    All of Armani's marketing evokes that quality. He and Rosanna have worked with many famous fashion photographers over the years, from Peter Lindbergh to Mert and Marcus, but Armani ads always look the same. "They have the grabbed quality of cinema, and the heightened realism of Visconti's neorealist films," Scorsese says. Rather than telling a story about that season's collection, as Prada and Marc Jacobs do, Armani's campaigns convey a single generic message: sophistication. By using the same elegant serif typeface across every product line, Armani ensures that the sight of one logo reminds the customers of all of the others, too. The marketing is so clear and consistent that even those with no knowledge of fashion remember the name and what it represents, just as they do with a BMW or a Mercedes logo. As a result, the brand has more in common with those luxury marquees than the hot fashion labels of the moment.

    So far, success has enabled Armani to rebuff the luxury conglomerates and investment bankers who have trooped through Via Borgonuovo hoping to buy his business. One of Armani's favorite stories is of a visit by four Italian industrialists who wanted to buy his company with an elderly banker: "He was the most powerful man in Italian banking, and while the others spoke, he sat there, not saying a word. Then he looked over at the other men and said: 'My dear sirs, Mr. Armani doesn't need us. Let's go."'

    Success has also allowed Armani to ignore the question of succession. He says he has decided against a single successor, in favor of building a team. But at 72, without a firm plan in place, his options to secure his company's future are narrowing. Could he float it on the stock market? Possibly, but not at its full value. Would another company buy or invest in it? The answer is the same. So far, licensees have continued to invest in new launches, but that may change if the succession isn't settled. Armani says that his family will inherit his wealth and that the company will be run independently, possibly through a foundation, but, no, he hasn't set one up yet. And in the meantime there are hotels to plan, stores to open, new products to launch and a second boat to design. "My problem is time," Giorgio Armani says with a sigh, "always time."


     

     

    Iraq Stumbling in Bid to Purge Its Rogue Police

    Shawn Baldwin for The New York Times

    Members of an elite police unit under the Interior Ministry's jurisdiction directed vehicles at a checkpoint on the outskirts of Baghdad Saturday, September 16, 2006.

     

    September 17, 2006
    Security Forces

    Iraq Stumbling in Bid to Purge Its Rogue Police

    BAGHDAD, Sept. 16 — Shiite militiamen and criminals entrenched throughout Iraq's police and internal security forces are blocking recent efforts by some Iraqi leaders and the American military to root them out, a step critical to winning the trust of skeptical Sunni Arabs and quelling the sectarian conflict, Iraqi and Western officials say.

    The new interior minister, Jawad al-Bolani, who oversees the police, lacks the political support to purge many of the worst offenders, including senior managers who tolerated or encouraged the infiltration of Shiite militias into the police under the previous government, according to interviews with more than a dozen officials who work with the ministry and the police.

    No one expected a housecleaning to be easy, and some headway has been made in firing people. But despite that progress, recent difficulties reveal the magnitude of the task facing Mr. Bolani and Prime Minister Nuri Kamal al-Maliki. When he took office in late May, Mr. Maliki said one of his top goals was to reform the Shiite-led Interior Ministry, which had, to the minority Sunni Arabs, become synonymous with government complicity in abduction, torture and killing.

    The ministry recently discovered that more than 1,200 policemen and other employees had been convicted years ago of murder, rape and other violent crimes, said a Western diplomat who has close contact with the ministry. Some were even on death row. Few have been fired.

    Despite the importance American commanders place on hiring more Sunni Arabs for the overwhelmingly Shiite police force, the ministry still has no way to screen recruits by sect or for militia allegiance. Such loyalties are the root cause of the ministry's problems.

    A senior American commander said that of the 27 paramilitary police battalions, "we think 5 or 6 battalions probably have leaders that have led that part of the organization in a way that is either criminal or sectarian or both."

    Death squads in uniforms could be responsible for the recent surge in sectarian violence, with at least 165 bodies found across Baghdad since Wednesday.

    There is little accountability. The government has stopped allowing joint Iraqi and American teams to inspect Iraqi prisons. No senior ministry officials have been prosecuted on charges of detainee mistreatment, in spite of fresh discoveries of abuse and torture, including a little-reported case involving children packed into a prison of more than 1,400 inmates. Internal investigations into secret prisons, corruption and other potential criminal activity are often blocked.

    The Americans view an overhaul of the Ministry of the Interior as a crucial step in helping rein in the growing sectarian conflict.

    "I think there are some definite issues in the M.O.I.," Lt. Gen. Peter W. Chiarelli, the second-ranking commander in Iraq, said in an interview. "I think there probably needs to be some leadership changes. But I know the minister of interior himself is working those."

    Mr. Bolani, a Shiite engineer appointed last May, sincerely wants to purge the ministry of Shiite partisans brought in by his predecessor, the officials interviewed said. But his independence from powerful Shiite political leaders — the very quality that earned him the job — also means Mr. Bolani has limited power to remove politically connected subordinates and enact changes.

    "He's got to be careful about what he does, just to stay alive," the Western diplomat said.

    An American adviser to the ministry said Mr. Bolani was unavailable for an interview last week.

    A New Security Plan

    Some tentative progress has been made under the new government. Death squads in police uniforms no longer kidnap and kill with absolute impunity in parts of Sunni-dominated western Baghdad, many Iraqis say. The American military estimates there was a 52 percent drop in the daily rate of execution-style killings from July to August.

    Officials attribute the decline to a new Baghdad security plan, more police oversight by American trainers and policy changes in the ministry. Military officials say the killings in the past week took place in neighborhoods not yet cleared out by security sweeps and are not necessarily the work of policemen — imposters are rife throughout Iraq.

    "The performance has improved slightly," said Ayad al-Samarraie, a legislator and senior official in the Iraqi Islamic Party, a Sunni Arab group that is sharply critical of the Interior Ministry. "Less people are kidnapped, and there are less raids by the militias on the people."

    Brig. Gen. Abdul Karim Khalaf, an Interior Ministry spokesman, said the ministry had fired 1,500 employees since June. They include senior officers like the police chief of Anbar Province. Mr. Bolani is pushing to enact a law that would ban the ministry's 167,000 employees from belonging to a political party.

    Yet, a powerful official suspected of aiding the Shiite militias, Adnan al-Asadi — nicknamed Triple A by the Americans — still holds the job of deputy minister of administration. Mr. Asadi is "the one who really runs the M.O.I.," said Saleh Mutlak, a Sunni Arab legislator. Mr. Bolani wants to oust Mr. Asadi but does not have the political backing to do so, leaving American advisers frustrated, said an American official who was not authorized to talk publicly on the subject and spoke on the condition of anonymity.

    Mr. Asadi supports the ministry's inspector general, whom the advisers consider wholly ineffective. American advisers set up an internal affairs unit late last year to conduct honest in-house inquiries. But the two offices feud, and the internal affairs unit lacks full authority to investigate the police in the provinces.

    A recent fingerprinting campaign throughout the ministry showed that 1,228 police officers and ministry employees had been convicted of violent crimes under Saddam Hussein's government, said the Western diplomat, who spoke only on the condition of anonymity because of protocol. A handful had been sentenced to death.

    "These are rapists, murderers, drug dealers," the diplomat said. "The impression I got is that there are a lot more out there."

    Mr. Bolani has said he intends to fire some of them. But a complete purging of the ministry's most criminally violent employees is impossible, the diplomat said, because "they're going to go straight to the militias, or set up their own criminal gangs."

    Even top Pentagon officials now acknowledge the ministry's deeply rooted dysfunctions. "Corruption, illegal activity and sectarian bias have constrained progress in developing M.O.I. forces," according to a Pentagon report issued to Congress at the end of August. "Inappropriate tolerance of and infiltration by Shia militias, some of which are influenced by Iran, is the primary concern of the government of Iraq."

    Trouble With Elite Units

    Since May, when Shiite politicians fought to keep control of the ministry under the new government, the ministry's total force has grown to more than 167,000 from 146,000. It is divided into 118,000 regular police officers, 24,400 paramilitary troops and 24,700 border guards.

    Of those, the paramilitary units now called the national police are the most feared. Under Bayan Jabr, a conservative Shiite politician who was Mr. Bolani's predecessor, fighters from the two most powerful Shiite militias, the Badr Organization and the Mahdi Army, were recruited into the ranks of those elite units.

    Assaults on civilians by gunmen in paramilitary uniforms have continued in some predominantly Sunni or mixed areas of Baghdad.

    A woman who asked to be identified as Umm Shahad said in an interview that her 24-year-old son, a Sunni Arab, was recently taken from his car at a checkpoint run by paramilitary officers in their neighborhood, Jihad. She said she went to the unit's local stationhouse and to the Interior Ministry to search for him. Officials at each place said they had no idea where he was. "These were real commandos," she said of her son's abductors. "We are so afraid."

    Col. Damon Penn, the senior American adviser to the national police's 9,000-member Second Division, acknowledged that "there are still some militias operating within the national police."

    "I think there are some individuals and small cells that they need to purge to make this a truly governmental force," he said. But progress had been made, he insisted.

    So suspect are the national police that the American military and Iraqi Army began inspections of each battalion in August. The reviews include recording the serial numbers of all national police weapons and vehicles. Twelve battalions have already been inspected, and the rest are to be completed by October, when the units will get new blue uniforms.

    Each brigade will be pulled from the field and put through a six-week training course in policing and the rule of law, Colonel Penn said.

    Four of the eight police brigades are to be deployed soon from Baghdad to the provinces, so building public confidence in them is critical.

    Prisoner Abuse by the Police

    The Iraqi and American inspectors assigned to the police prison known as Site 4 found themselves walking through a chamber of horrors at the end of May.

    More than 1,400 prisoners had been packed into a small area by the Wolf Brigade, a national police unit accused of abuses by Sunni Arabs.

    Prisoners with "lesions resulting from torture" were found during the inspection in eastern Baghdad on May 30, as was "equipment used for this purpose," according to a human rights report recently released by the United Nations mission here.

    Some prisoners had been beaten, others bound and hung by their arms, an American officer said. There were at least 37 children or teenagers.

    The discovery showed that torture by the police was still rampant despite promises by government officials to end it. Right after Site 4 was examined, the government stopped allowing joint Iraqi and American teams to inspect Iraqi prisons.

    American commanders and Iraqi human rights officials say the treatment of detainees remains troubling. "New evidence has continued to emerge pointing to torture and other cruel, inhumane or degrading treatment in detention centers," the United Nations report said.

    The Ministry of Human Rights reported that 4,331 detainees were being held in Interior Ministry prisons as of Aug. 31. Yet no one has a clear estimate of the number of prisons run by the Interior Ministry, because some elite police brigades operate detention centers on their bases.

    The Second Division of the national police, for instance, holds 250 detainees in four cramped rooms at Camp Justice, the division headquarters in northern Baghdad. That number is down from 650 last March. But American advisers there recently found 12 prisoners with bruises and black eyes.

    The possible existence of secret prisons like the torture compound discovered in the Jadriya neighborhood last year continues to worry American commanders.

    "It's obviously a concern," said Brig. Gen. Dana J. H. Pittard, who is in charge of the operational training of the national police. "The pessimistic side of me says they exist."

    Crowding and a lack of access to judges are widespread problems, despite Mr. Maliki's order for a mass prisoner release in June, said Wijdan M. Salim, the minister of human rights. Detainees can languish in prison for months before seeing a judge. Some in Camp Justice have gone six months without appearing before a judge.

    Sectarianism and the Police

    As long as police units remain overwhelmingly Shiite, the distrust of them that is prevalent among Sunni Arabs will be tough to overcome, Sunni leaders say. Yet, Mr. Bolani has avoided putting in place a policy that would diversify or even track the sectarian makeup of police units and recruits. A ministry spokesman said Mr. Bolani preferred not to think in those terms.

    But General Chiarelli, the senior American commander, said: "I'm concerned with some of the ethnic makeup of some of the stations. Our goal was to take a look at that, to work with the minister of interior to get a balance, because I think that's absolutely essential."

    The weaknesses in having an unrepresentative police force became more evident this summer. In one incident, American and Iraqi commanders tried to move the headquarters of a national police brigade from eastern Baghdad, which is mostly Shiite, to Dora, an extremely volatile area that is majority Sunni. A fifth of the 1,500 members quit, Colonel Penn said. "There are some dedicated Sunni areas that the Shia aren't comfortable going into, and vice versa," he said.

    The Americans have pushed the ministry to change the Shiite makeup of the national police by filling academy classes with Sunni Arabs. The Second Division was only 7 or 8 percent Sunni Arab at the start of the summer. It is now 20 percent Sunni.

    The Iraqi population is estimated to be 60 percent Shiite Arab, 20 percent Sunni Arab and 20 percent Kurd. Asked what the breakdown of the overall police force was, General Chiarelli said he was trying to find out himself.

    Getting the balance right is "absolutely critical," he said, because hostility among Sunni Arabs is still high.

    In the southern half of the Ghazaliya neighborhood, a mostly Sunni area in northwest Baghdad, "there is no trust between the people and the Iraqi police," said a man who called himself Abu Jafr, a guard at a sewage pumping station surrounded by small lakes of raw waste.

    "Every time the Iraqi police come to the neighborhood, they get shot at, because people here think they're from the militias," he said.

    To help change that perception, American commanders across Baghdad are trying a new tactic: having neighborhood police units work alongside Iraqi Army units, which enjoy a modicum of trust even among Sunni Arabs. The Americans have also placed an advisory team in most of the city's police stations.

    At the main station in Ghazaliya, staffed almost entirely by Shiite officers, a group of policemen and Iraqi Army soldiers prepared to roll out on a joint patrol on a recent afternoon. The American battalion commander of the area, Lt. Col. Avanulas Smiley, pointed to the vehicles as he strode from his armored carrier into the walled compound. "That is huge for the Ghazaliyans to see," he said.

    A few days later, six headless bodies turned up in the neighborhood. No one knew who was responsible.


     

    Pope Apologizes for Uproar Over His Remarks

    September 17, 2006    
    Danilo Schiavella/European Pressphoto Agency


    The pope on Sunday made a personal apology about the anger caused by his remarks on Islam and violence.

    September 17, 2006

    Pope Apologizes for Uproar Over His Remarks

    ROME, Sept. 17 — Pope Benedict XVI sought Sunday to extinguish days of anger and protest among Muslims by issuing an extraordinary personal apology for having caused offense with a speech last week that cited a reference to Islam as "evil and inhuman."

    "I am deeply sorry for the reactions in some countries to a few passages of my address," the pope told pilgrims at the summer papal palace of Castel Gandolfo, "which were considered offensive.''

    "These were in fact quotations from a medieval text, which do not in any way express my personal thought," the pope, 79, said in Italian, according to the official English translation.

    "The true meaning of my address," he said, "in its totality was and is an invitation to frank and sincere dialogue, with great mutual respect."

    His apology came amid much worry in the church about violence and any erosion of the status of the papacy as a neutral figure for peace among faiths. In Somalia on Sunday, the Italian Foreign Ministry reported, an Italian nun was shot to death. A day earlier, five churches were firebombed in the West Bank and one in Iraq.

    Although Benedict's predecessor, John Paul II, issued several apologies for the historical failings of the Roman Catholic Church, experts said it appeared to be the first time in recent memory that a pope had made such a direct, personal apology for his own.

    "This is really, really abnormal," said Alberto Melloni, professor of history at the University of Modena, who has written several books on the Vatican. "It's never happened as far as I know."

    Beyond the anger among Muslims, the pope's comments have also provoked a complicated debate in Italy and among many Catholics, on issues including whether he appreciated the reaction he would provoke and whether the pope's speeches, which he usually writes himself, are properly vetted by a Vatican undergoing a bureaucratic transition.

    Several Vatican officials said they had expressed concern before the speech was delivered that it might be negatively received by Muslims or be misconstrued by the news media as an attack on Islam. And for many conservatives here, fearful of terror attacks in the name of Islam and rising Muslim immigration in Europe, the remarks of the pope — despite his own denial that he meant to criticize — amounted to a rare public discussion of a delicate question: whether, in fact, Islam is at the moment especially prone to violence.

    Silvio Berlusconi, Italy's former prime minister, said Saturday that the comments amounted to "an opening, a positive provocation. And so for this reason he is a great pope, with a great intelligence."

    The pope made his own public apology following two other clarifications from senior Vatican officials since the speech was delivered last Tuesday at Regensburg University, in Germany, where the German-born pope used to teach theology. The speech was largely a scholarly address criticizing the West for submitting itself too much to reason, for walling belief in God out of science and philosophy. But he began by recounting a conversation on the truths of Christianity and Islam that took place between a 14th-century Byzantine Christian emperor, Manuel II Paleologus, and a Persian scholar.

    "He said, I quote, 'Show me just what Muhammad brought that was new, and there you will find things only evil and inhuman, such as his command to spread by the sword the faith he preached,' '' the pope said.

    Benedict also briefly discussed the Islamic concept of jihad, which he defined as "holy war," and said violence in the name of religion is contrary to God's nature and to reason.

    At the same time, without mentioning Islam specifically, he suggested reason as the basis for "that genuine dialogue of cultures and religions so urgently needed today."

    In the speech, he did not say whether he agreed with the quotations he cited about violence and Islam — but on Sunday he distanced himself strongly from them.

    It was not immediately clear whether this apology would tamp down the anger, which recalled the furor earlier this year after European newspapers published cartoons unflattering to the Prophet Mohammad.

    In Egypt, a senior member of the Muslim Brotherhood, which had been critical of the pope, initially said Sunday that the pope's remarks represented a "good step toward an apology." Later statements from the group, however, seemed to cast doubt on whether it accepted the apology fully.

    In Gaza, the Palestinian prime minister, Ismail Haniya, denounced attacks on some half-dozen churches there and in the West Bank. In Bethlehem, sacred to Christians as the birthplace of Jesus and home to many Arab Christians, police presence was higher than usual.

    "The Christian brothers are a part of the Palestinian people, and I heard the highest Christian authority in Palestine denouncing the statements against Islam and against Muslims," Mr. Haniya told reporters.

    Meantime on Sunday, protest continued around the Muslim world.

    In Iran, several hundred theological students were given the day off to protest in Qum, the nation's center for religious study, as the Vatican envoy in Tehran was summoned for an official complaint about the remarks. Several radical Iraqi groups posted threats on the Internet against the Vatican and Christians in general.

    In Mogadishu, the capital of the former Italian colony of Somalia, an Italian nun died after being shot several times in an ambush in a hospital in which a Somali bodyguard was also killed. It was unclear if the attack was retribution for the pope's remarks, although the Vatican issued a response.

    The Rev. Federico Lombardi, the chief Vatican spokesman, was quoted by the ANSA news agency as calling the killing "horrible." "We hope it remains an isolated incident," he said.

    While anger remained high in Turkey, the nation's foreign minister, Abdullah Gul, said on Sunday that he expected Benedict's planned trip there in November would go ahead. But he called the pope's remarks "really regrettable."

    The Vatican's new secretary of state, Cardinal Tarcisio Bertone, also said Sunday that he expected the pope's visit to Turkey to proceed.

    "For the time being, there is no reason why it should not," he told the ANSA news agency.

    The furor, which has left Benedict's 17-month papacy with its first major crisis, has also set off a round of second-guessing in the Vatican and among church experts about exactly what happened.

    First among the questions — which the pope refuted on Sunday — is whether he in fact intended to make a statement about Islam and violence. Second is whether he realized the extent of the reaction.

    But more concretely, experts said, the issue raised questions both about how the church operates under this new pope, and to what extent his statements are checked and balanced diplomatically now that he is no longer an academic but the leader of the world's billion Roman Catholics.

    Benedict is used to writing his own speeches, and several Vatican officials said he wrote Tuesday's address, one of the most significant of the papacy, by himself. The officials, speaking anonymously because they were not authorized to discuss this publicly, said that there was concern in the Vatican before he delivered it, both about the reaction among Muslims and how the news media would portray the passages relating to Islam.

    That concern was relayed up the chain of command, the officials said, but it is not clear if it reached the pope.

    At a time when the Vatican has just replaced its second-in-command and its foreign minister, many experts also said that the Vatican does not have enough experts on Islam to gauge reaction to any papal statements.

    "They have nobody to really ask," said the Rev. Thomas Michel, secretary for inter-religious dialogue for the Jesuit order of priests. "Whoever looked at it and let that go through is someone who doesn't understand Muslims at all."

    In February, Benedict reassigned the Vatican's most senior Arab expert, Archbishop Michael Fitzgerald, then the head of inter-religious dialogue, to Cairo as the Vatican envoy there. The move was seen at the time by some church experts as a sign of Benedict's skepticism about the value of dialogue with Muslims.

    "I think one may say, if it is not too impolite, that it is time to bring back Monsignor Fitzgerald," Mr. Melloni, the Vatican scholar, said.


  • Bamford & Sons London

    John Swannell

    The brothers Jo and George Bamford in 1994.

    Banford & Sons

    A cashmere blanket coat.

    September 17, 2006

    Earthly Goods

    'Sex workers 20 pages of gorgeous semi-naked girls riding job's!"

    That cover line on a recent issue of British GQ was no lie: inside, in a knowing nod to 1970's pinup calendars, the magazine delivered exactly what it promised, a bevy of scantily clad lovelies in yellow hard hats and bikinis, toting power tools and disporting on and around huge yellow JCB earthmovers.

    So far, soooo blokey. And yet, JCB, this monster piece of equipment, this behemoth of hard-hat supremacy, has a legitimate if somewhat tenuous connection to gentlemanly fashion. For just as GQ hit the stands, Sir Anthony Bamford, the chairman of JCB, was about to open the doors to his new men's-wear emporium, Bamford & Sons, in Sloane Square in London, where the clothes are decidedly more Merchant Ivory meets Biggles than Russ Meyer meets Bob the Builder.

    Banish all assumptions that Bamford & Sons, available for the first time this side of the pond at Bergdorf Goodman, is some kind of blue-collar label. Unless you count an old-school donkey jacket (of the kind once favored by British garbagemen), there is no work wear in the line. Instead we are in Burberry and Paul Smith territory: cable knits, cashmeres, tweeds and outerwear, all displayed alongside toys, books, photographs and gadgets.

    The draw is unashamedly aspirational, the landscape familiar: a kind of mythical England where teenagers read adventure stories in hammocks while Mum and Dad putter around on their sailboat before Sunday lunch at the family's country pile. This isn't the real world, the England where police officers are on the lookout for suicide bombers; this is a more comfortable place — "Brideshead Revisited" England, or even "Harry Potter." What sets Bamford & Sons apart is that it's not the product of some cute marketers with an eye for an unexploited opportunity — the British Ralph Lauren, anyone? Instead it is the real thing, because it reflects the image of its founders.

    Rather than relying on fantasy, the Bamfords looked around and decided to take their lifestyle to market. Sir Anthony enjoys classic cars, boats and planes; Lady Bamford, who prefers to be called Carole, is environmentally aware. (Witness Daylesford, their organic farming estate in Gloucestershire, which supplies produce to the cafe located in the store's basement.) The question then became, "What are the clothes that embody this lifestyle?"

    The answer appears to be well-designed classics that are technically pukka: an oilcloth mackintosh, a waterproof jacket in Loro Piana Storm System cashmere, hand-finished Neapolitan shirts (by a maker who has been selling to Sir Anthony for years), Aran sweaters from Ireland and socks from Wales. But this is not merely le style anglais unfiltered. There are plenty of modern twists, like five-pocket gray flannel jeans.

    Taking a page from a design house like Dunhill, the Bamford & Sons store was designed with the knowledge that men love to have their clothes contextualized. Thus the place is full of gadgets (sourced from around the world primarily by Sir Anthony's son George Bamford): limited-edition black and lavender iPods, Tom Cat yo-yos, Rolleiflex cameras, cordless Sony mice. There are also books, toys and unusual things that make a man feel as if he's not really there to try on pants, like a Ferrari steering wheel or even a whale vertebra.

    When I visit, the vertebra is up on the top floor in the boys' department, among the jars of sweets, Steiff teddy bears, a four-lane Scalextric track and a wooden sled, and suddenly the JCB connection finally makes sense. Boys love their toys, and what, after all, is a big yellow digger other than the ultimate big boy's plaything?


     

  • Polo Gym Bag, Cartier Time Piece

    I have ordered on of these in every color, and so I should be well received on my next trip to the workout salon.

    Really a bargain, when you think about how hard it must be to wrestle those nasty creatures into submission.

    Michael


    Jens Mortensen

    Locker Luxe Trust Ralph to come up with the ultimate gym bag. This crocodile duffel is $16,000 at select Ralph

    Lauren stores. Call (888)475-7674.

     

    This is a nice watch. The style is tweaked slightly from the classic, but it retains the inimitable Cartier charm. In case you have 20k you don't know what to do with, stop by your nearest Cartier Boutique and pick one up.

    Oh, by the way, I would not be offended in the slightest if you picked up one for me as well

    All the Best,

    Michael

  • Birth of Brunch

    The Birth of Brunch

    The Birth of Brunch
    Why and how we eat at midday.
    By Bryan Curtis
    Posted Thursday, Aug. 31, 2006, at 7:20 PM ET



    "It started right here. This is the beginning of the brunch." This is Gary Greengrass, the owner of the Upper West Side delicatessen Barney Greengrass, known as "The Sturgeon King." A large, bald man who has run his grandfather's deli since 1983, Greengrass is sitting at a Formica table, his eyes trained on the customers coming through the door. At my behest, he is speculating that New York brunch as we know it began here on Amsterdam Avenue at 86th Street, amid pickled herring, whitefish salad, and salmon with eggs and onions. "It sort of evolutionized from here," he says.

    Six blocks south, at Sarabeth's at 80th Street, another New York restaurateur was laying down her claim. "I was the original brunch girl," says Sarabeth Levine. "I reactivated the eating of breakfast." Whereas Greengrass specializes in Jewish delicacies, Levine, who opened the first of her five New York locations in 1981, has a menu that tends toward porridges, vegetable and Gruyère frittatas, and pumpkin waffles with sour cream, raisins, pumpkin seeds, and honey. "Before me, you had the local Greek diner or the corner bodega thing," Levine says. "But you didn't have a place to sit down and get hot cereal unless you went to the country."

    Sunday brunch is so omnipresent in New Yorkextending uptown and downtown, upscale and downscale, and, these days, across all days and hours of the weekthat its origins are necessarily hazy. Dozens of Manhattan restaurants can lay claim to inventing some part of brunch: You can trace the mythic origins of eggs Benedict, for example, to Delmonico's, a downtown steakhouse, and the Waldorf, in Midtown. But Sunday brunch's formative cauldron may be this otherwise unremarkable six-block stretch of Amsterdam on the Upper West Side. It is here that Sunday brunch acquired its defining characteristics, its casual manners.

    Why Sunday? While it's tempting to see brunch as a secular rituala slow start for those coming to after nocturnal prowlingsthere's an argument that it owes a great deal to American Jewry. Brunch, Gary Greengrass acknowledges, was a kind of Jewish alternative to church. Jewish families, with nothing much to do on Sunday mornings, would take a long, leisurely meal, with traditional foods like bagels, lox, and blintzes. Occasionally, they would take that meal out. (New York blue laws used to prohibit restaurants from being open on Sundays; Greengrass' grandfather, Barney, would gladly pay the fine.) These days, Barney Greengrass hosts its share of Jewish machers: Jerry Seinfeld, David Geffen, Richard Dreyfuss, and novelist Philip Roth, who, according to Gary Greengrass, is a brunch guy but not a Sunday brunch guy.

    Barney Greengrass has been serving the same fare since it opened it 1908, but it wasn't until the early 1980s that brunch culture began to develop in New York. At that moment, Amsterdam above 79th Street wasn't an especially ripe piece of real estate. "It was terrible," says Sarabeth Levine. "My husband used to walk me to the bakery at 4:30 in the morning. There was a whole subculture of ratswhole families!" With money still transferring over from the Upper East Side, Amsterdam was a pre-gentrification mix of Columbia professors, artists, and bohemiansthe sort of slackery Sunday-morning regulars who frequent brunch now.

    It's easy to see brunch as a battle of wills: the restaurateurs, who want to keep the turnstiles moving, vs. the customers, who would have the meal take all afternoon. Brunch parties tend to arrive in increments, dressed like refugees, occasionally hungover, usually after increasingly irate calls from other patrons. ("Are you still in bed? Is someone there with you? Well, bring her, what do I care?") When the party finally coalesces on the sidewalk, they are informed by the host that they will have to wait for a tableboth Barney Greengrass and Sarabeth's tend to have endless lines on Sundays. As Nora Ephron, a longtime Upper West Side resident, put it in e-mail the other day, "As far as I can tell, the essential quality of an Upper West Side brunch seems to consist of milling in a large group outside of a restaurant for over an hour."

    Perhaps because of this extended preamble, diners feel entitled to a lethargic meal, kibitzing and peeling through the thick Sunday New York Times. To combat this, Barney Greengrass waiters are trained to be as warm as the restaurant's Formica tabletops, adhering to a policy of "get 'em in, get 'em down, get 'em well fed, and get 'em out." (You get your check whether you ask for it or not.) Sarabeth Levine says, "Do I want people in here for two hours? I don't think so! Breakfast isn't this big expensive thing. It's not like going out for dinner, where you sit for two hours, order wine, and run up a $250 bill. We don't want people nursing a muffin for two hours."

    Other New York brunch traditions vary depending on taste. Brunch may be alcoholic or nonalcoholic. A general rule holds that if the previous night was well-oiled, a Bloody Mary or mimosa will be necessary. (Whereas if you were sober, you might wish to keep it that way.) Brunch often has a distinctly post-coital vibe. Either one is brunching with one's romantic partner from the previous evening, in which case a louche afterglow hangs in the air, or one is brunching with friends, in which case one is wondering aloud why a louche afterglow isn't hanging in the air.

    The other thing about Sunday brunch is that it tends to be generational. In your 20smandatory, often twice a weekend. In your 30s and 40sless so, unless you want to lug around a stroller. Fifties and beyondagain frequent, though starting at an earlier hour. It might as well be breakfast.

    Bryan Curtis is a Slate staff writer. You can e-mail him at curtisb@slate.com.