Month: August 2005

  • A Lipstick President New York Senator Clinton and Presidency

    A Lipstick President New York Senator Clinton and Presidency

    Fred R. Conrad/The New York Times

    August 31, 2005
    A Lipstick President
    By MAUREEN DOWD
    WASHINGTON

    The president is working up a sweat, keeping that perfectly toned body perfectly toned. I slide past stone-faced men with earpieces and ask the president how it’s going.

    “Good,” she says, grinning. “People ask me if there could really be a woman president and I say, Of course, it’s the 21st century.”

    Geena Davis was shooting a rowing scene at the Potomac Boat House on Monday morning for her new ABC show, “Commander-in-Chief,” about the first woman president.

    Luckily, the first woman president is tall, a shade taller than W., so she’s eyeball to eyeball with generals and ambassadors. And she’s a redhead. Redheads, a recent study showed, have a higher tolerance for pain. In the show’s premiere, a lot of pain is dished up for Ms. Davis’s character, Mackenzie Allen, the vice president of a conservative president who keels over before the first hour is over.

    Nobody wants the vice president, a political independent, to be Madame President. Not the president, who tells her before he dies to resign so his ally, the archconservative speaker of the House played by Donald Sutherland, can get the job. Not the president’s chief of staff. Not her sulky, sexy conservative teenage daughter. Even her supportive (and faithful) politico husband gets skittish after East Wing staffers begin calling him “the first lady” and arrange his meetings with the White House chef.

    Mr. Sutherland’s Nathan Templeton condescendingly asks her, “How many Islamic states do you think would follow the edicts of a woman?”

    “Well, not only that, Nathan,” she replies sarcastically, “but we have that whole ‘once a month will she or won’t she press the button’ thing.”

    He laughs nastily. “Well, in a couple years,” he says, “you’re not gonna have to worry about that anymore.”

    The creator and writer, Rod Lurie, also had an embattled woman vice president in his 2000 movie “The Contender.” (He named his TV president and vice president Bridges and Allen; the stars playing those roles in 2000 were Jeff Bridges and Joan Allen.)

    He told me he modeled his female president not on Hillary Clinton but on Susan Lyne, the smart, elegant former president of ABC Entertainment who is chief executive at Martha Stewart Inc. He said he wanted someone “of rather unimpeachable integrity, very kind, very calm.”

    As Geena Davis was bursting into the Oval Office, and the other TV president, Martin Sheen, was dropping in on Cindy Sheehan in Crawford, Hillary was plotting for real.

    Her political activism began with her 1969 Wellesley commencement speech, when she slapped back a Republican senator, Edward Brooke, for criticizing the students’ Vietnam War protests. She praised “that indispensable task of criticizing.”

    But now Hillary’s voice is often pianissimo on the current hot issue: how to get out of Iraq. Once we made sure Saddam was armed against Iran. Now we may have to arm an Islamic protégé of Iran if we want to pull out.

    But Hillary’s not playing the vocal peacenik this time – she’s the cagey hawk. She knows if she wants to be the first woman president, she can’t have love beads in her jewelry box.

    She has defended her vote to authorize the president to wage war, even though it was apparent then that the administration was snookering the country. And she has argued for more troops in Iraq, knowing it sounds muscular but there’s no support for it from the public – or Rummy.

    She figures the liberals will stay with her while she scuttles to the center, even if they get angry when she’s not out front on stopping the war or preserving abortion rights. No one knows how she’ll vote on John Roberts, so this could be her own Sister Souljah moment – will she break with the hard-line left on Judge Roberts?

    What Hillary has going for her is exhaustion. Exhaustion kicks in with any party in power for eight years, let alone one that tricked the country into war. And at some point, voters may be too exhausted to resist Hillary’s relentless ambition any longer.

    But by hanging back and trimming her positions, by keeping her powder dry until a more politically advantageous time, she may miss the moment when Americans are looking for someone to emerge from her cowering party to articulate their anger about Iraq or their fear about a Supreme Court that will scale back women’s rights and civil rights here, as Islamic courts do the same in Iraq.

    Hillary may get caught flat-footed. Or she may be right in betting that there’s no need to do anything rash now, like leading.

    E-mail: liberties@nytimes.com

    Thomas L. Friedman is on vacation.

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  • Bus Convoy to Move Thousands From Superdome to Astrodome

    Wednesday, August 31, 2005

     

    Bus Convoy to Move Thousands From Superdome to Astrodome

    Marko Georgiev for The New York Times

    Tommie Clark, 79, and his wife, Florence, 75, were in the Superdome, where sunshine was coming in through holes in the roof. Those who sought shelter in the dome are being evacuated to Houston.

    August 31, 2005
    Bus Convoy to Move Thousands From Superdome to Astrodome
    By JOSEPH B. TREASTER and MARIA NEWMAN

    NEW ORLEANS, Aug. 31 -With much of the city inundated and uninhabitable, state and federal officials said today that they would bus thousands of newly homeless residents to Houston, where they will be sheltered in the Astrodome.

    In Washington, President Bush, who earlier glimpsed the destruction along the Gulf Coast from the air on his way back from Texas earlier in the day, declared that “we are dealing with one of the worst natural disasters in our nation’s history.”

    “This recovery will take years,” he added.

    The Department of Homeland Security assumed control of the federal response to the disaster, with Secretary Michael Chertoff declaring the situation an “incident of national significance.”

    The government said more than 78,000 people were now in shelters in Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama, the three states that bore the brunt of Katrina’s onslaught.

    The refugees from New Orleans, at least 10,000 of whom initially sought shelter from Hurricane Katrina in the New Orleans Superdome, will make the 350-mile trip to Houston on 475 buses provided by the Federal Emergency Management Agency, officials said. Gov. Rick Perry of Texas said the Astrodome, which can provide living space for about 25,000 people, will be available to house them at least until December, and longer, if necessary.

    The governor also said that he would open the doors to Texas’ public schools to children from out of state whose families were left homeless by the storms.

    “By the grace of God, we could be the ones who have this extraordinary need,” Mr. Perry said. “We’re going to get through this together as one American family.”

    With hospitals closing down, no running water or electricity in most parts of the city, health risks intensifying and looters running rampant in places, Gov. Kathleen Babineaux Blanco of Louisiana said officials had no choice but to try to clear everyone out of New Orleans, even if that meant moving people to another state.

    “The logistical problems are impossible and we have to evacuate people in shelters,” the governor said, according to The Associated Press. “It’s becoming untenable. There’s no power. It’s getting more difficult to get food and water supplies in, just basic essentials.”

    One bit of positive news came from New Orleans’ emergency services overseer, Col. Terry Ebbert, who said this afternoon that the floodwaters appeared to be stabilizing. “The water isn’t going to get higher,” he said. “You’ve got six inches of variation during the day depending on the tides.”

    “You can go up the street here a few blocks and it’s dry,” he added. “You can go to the lower ninth ward and it is under 15 feet of water.”

    President Bush, who plans to visit the storm-ravaged areas on Friday or Saturday, met after his return to Washington today with a task force he established to coordinate the efforts of 14 federal agencies. He will ask Congress for more money to aid those affected by the storm, and he put the federal response to the disaster in the hands of the Homeland Security Department, led by Mr. Chertoff.

    That designation will set in motion, for the first time, a national emergency plan devised after the 2001 terror attacks to coordinate the work of several agencies aiding recovery efforts. “We will work tirelessly to ensure that our fellow citizens have the sustained support and the necessary aid to recover and reclaim their homes, their lives, and their communities,” Mr. Chertoff said in a televised briefing.

    Michael Leavitt, the secretary of health and human services, who is part of the task force, said he was declaring a public health emergency for the entire gulf region because of the threat of an outbreak of disease in areas without running water or electricity.

    In addition to other assistance, President Bush said he some 11,000 National Guard troops had been assigned to help patrol the storm-stricken region. The Coast Guard was flying in relief supplies on cargo planes and the Navy was sending five ships carrying supplies, as well.

    Search-and-rescue teams in helicopters and boats continued to search for survivors in the flooded and battered city of New Orleans, with hundreds already plucked from rooftops of flooded houses. Officials said that it could be months before residents would be allowed to return to their homes.

    Governor Blanco flew over the devastated area today, and later, with tears in her eyes, recounted to reporters her seeing people stranded on rooftops, water taking over homes. The death toll, she said, will probably continue to rise.

    “This is heartbreaking,” she said. “I think people will have to draw on their inner strength.”

    Senator Mary Landrieu, Democrat of Louisiana, who accompanied the governor on her survey, said that it was difficult to view her devastated hometown from the air. “What I saw today is equivalent to what I saw flying over the tsunami area,” she said. “There are places that are no longer there.”

    The mayor of New Orleans, Ray Nagin, told reporters that “we know there is a significant number of dead bodies in the water” and that there were others in the attics of flood houses, leading him to believe, The A.P. reported, that the ultimate death toll could be “minimum, hundreds, most likely, thousands.”

    In Mississippi, officials raised the official count of the dead to at least 100. “It looks like Hiroshima, is what it looks like,” Gov. Haley Barbour said in describing parts of Harrison County, Miss.

    Some Mississippi casinos, which had been floating on barges, were swept half a mile inland. An oil platform in the gulf was transported within a hundred yards of Dauphin Island, the barrier island at the south end of Mobile County, Ala., and much of that island was underwater.

    Governor Blanco of Louisiana said relief efforts had first to focus on getting people out of afflicted areas, and to bring enough food and water to help survivors and refugees. She also said a top priority for Louisiana was repairing the two breaches that opened on Tuesday in levees that were holding back the waters of Lake Pontchartrain in New Orleans.

    Workers for the Army Corps of Engineers today continued to drop 3,000-pound containers to try to close one 500-foot gap in the levee. But agency officials said that they were having trouble getting needed equipment to the work sites because many bridges and roads were destroyed during the storm.

    Despite the obstacles, Louisiana officials said that 250 slings were on their way, and that there were 100 additional 3,000-pound containers filled and ready to be dropped into the hole. About 250 concrete barriers have been delivered on site already.

    “The challenge is an engineering nightmare,” Ms. Blanco said on ABC’s “Good Morning America.”

    In New Orleans, it was not the water from the sky but the water that broke through the city’s protective barriers that had changed everything for the worse. With a population of nearly 500,000, New Orleans is protected from the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain by levees.

    When the levees gave way in some critical spots, streets that were essentially dry in the hours immediately after the hurricane passed were several feet deep in water on Tuesday morning. Even downtown areas that lie on higher ground were flooded. Mayor Nagin said both city airports were under water.

    The Superdome’s roof suffered damage during the storm, and rising waters around the arena have meant that the thousands of refugees there were huddled in increasingly grim conditions as clean water and food dwindled, toilets overflowed and floodwaters threatened emergency generators. Authorities fear the conditions will give way to illnesses and infections.

    Looting broke out in the city as opportunistic thieves cleaned out abandoned stores. In one incident, officials said, a police officer was shot and critically wounded.

    “These are not individuals looting,” Colonel Ebbert, the city’s director of homeland security, said. “These are large groups of armed individuals.”

    In some places, armed national guardsmen and law-enforcement officials carrying rifles could be seen patrolling in groups, in some cases in armored vehicles.

    Hundreds of critically ill patients had to be evacuated from Charity Hospital and Tulane University Hospital because of the flooding. At Tulane, they were removed by helicopter from the roof of a parking garage.

    The staff of the city’s major daily, The Times-Picayune, which was able to publish only an online version of Tuesday editions, was forced to flee the paper’s offices.

    Preliminary damage estimates from insurance experts on Monday ranged from $9 billion to $16 billion, but they were pushed up past $25 billion on Tuesday, which could make Hurricane Katrina the costliest in history, surpassing Hurricane Andrew in 1992, with $21 billion in insured losses.

    As the scope of the damage to oil and gas facilities in the Gulf of Mexico became more apparent, energy prices rocketed to record highs. Experts predicted that further increases were likely.

    Today, the Energy Department said it would release oil from the nation’s Strategic Petroleum Reserve to keep refineries supplied.

    From the air, New Orleans was a shocking sight of utter demolition. Seen from the vantage point of a Jefferson Parish sheriff’s helicopter transporting FEMA officials, vast stretches of the city resembled a community of houseboats. Twenty-block neighborhoods were under water as high as the roofs of three-story houses. One large building, the Galleria, had most, if not all, of its 600 windows blown out.

    Sections of Interstate 10, the principal artery through the city, had pieces missing or misaligned, as if the highway was an unfinished jigsaw puzzle. Parts of the 24-mile-long Lake Pontchartrain Causeway, the world’s longest overwater highway bridge, were missing as well. Fires had broken out in sundry buildings, and hundreds of thousands of people were without power.

    One woman swam from her home on Monday and then walked through the night to take shelter in a 24-hour bar in the French Quarter. Another left her flooding house but could not persuade her elderly roommate to come with her. Her roommate insisted, “God will take care of me.”

    Even today, two days after the storm ripped through here, people were still wading through waist-high water, looking to determine the fate of their homes. Rescue workers, who were plucking people off roofs in rescue cages, reported seeing bodies floating through the water.

    Parishes east of the city were also battered. The president of Plaquemines Parish, on the southeastern tip of Louisiana, announced that the lower half of the parish had been reclaimed by the river. St. Bernard Parish, adjacent to New Orleans, was largely rooftops and water.

    In South Diamondhead, Miss., on St. Louis Bay, all that remained of the entire community of 200 homes was pilings. Boats were stuck in trees.

    “Yeah, we caught it,” said Randy Keel, 46. “We basically got what we’re wearing.”

    Everyone was “walking around like zombies,” Mr. Keel said.

    Joseph B. Treaster reported from New Orleans for this article, and Maria Newman from New York. Reporting was also contributed by Abby Goodnough, Kate Zernike and Shaila Dewan from Biloxi, Miss; Felicity Barringer from Houma, La.; Ralph Blumenthal from New Orleans; N. R. Kleinfield, Shadi Rahimi and Michael Luo from New York; Jeremy Alford from Baton Rouge, La.; and Diane Allen from South Diamondhead, Miss.

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  • Wednesday, August 31, 2005








    Governor: Everyone must leave New Orleans




    Gerardo Mora/European Pressphoto Agency

    Rescue workers searched for survivors in New Orleans.


    Governor: Everyone must leave New Orleans
    8/31/2005, 10:33 a.m. CT
    By BRETT MARTEL
    The Associated Press


    NEW ORLEANS (AP) — The governor of Louisiana says everyone needs to leave New Orleans due to flooding from Hurricane Katrina. “We’ve sent buses in. We will be either loading them by boat, helicopter, anything that is necessary,” Gov. Kathleen Blanco said. Army engineers trying to plug New Orleans’ breached levees struggled to move giant sandbags and concrete barriers into place, and the governor said Wednesday the situation was growing more desperate and there was no choice but to abandon the flooded city.

    “The challenge is an engineering nightmare,” Gov. Kathleen Blanco said on ABC’s “Good Morning America.”

    As the waters continued to rise in New Orleans, the Pentagon began mounting one of the biggest search-and-rescue operations in U.S. history, sending four Navy ships to the Gulf Coast with drinking water and other emergency supplies, along with the hospital ship USNS Comfort, search helicopters and eight swift-water rescue teams. Red Cross workers from across the country converged on the devastated region.

    The Army Corps of Engineers said it planned to use heavy-duty Chinook helicopters to drop 3,000-pound sandbags Wednesday into the 500-foot gap in the failed floodwall. But the agency said it was having trouble getting the sandbags and dozens of 15-foot highway barriers to the site because the city’s waterways were blocked by loose barges, boats and large debris.

    Officials said they were also looking at a more audacious plan: finding a barge to plug the 500-foot hole.

    The death toll from Hurricane Katrina reached at least 110 in Mississippi alone, while Louisiana put aside the counting of the dead to concentrate on rescuing the living, many of whom were still trapped on rooftops and in attics.

    The Red Cross reported it had about 40,000 people in 200 shelters across the area in one of the biggest urban disasters the nation has ever seen.

    A full day after the Big Easy thought it had escaped Katrina’s full fury, two levees broke and spilled water into the streets Tuesday, swamping an estimated 80 percent of the bowl-shaped, below-sea-level city, inundating miles and miles of homes and rendering much of New Orleans uninhabitable for weeks or months.

    “We are looking at 12 to 16 weeks before people can come in,” Mayor Ray Nagin said on ABC’s “Good Morning America, “and the other issue that’s concerning me is we have dead bodies in the water. At some point in time the dead bodies are going to start to create a serious disease issue.”

    Blanco said she wanted the Superdome — which had become a shelter of last resort for about 20,000 people — evacuated within two days, along with other gathering points for storm refugees. The situation inside the dank and sweltering Superdome was becoming desperate: The water was rising, the air conditioning was out, toilets were broken, and tempers were rising.

    At the same time, sections of Interstate 10, the only major freeway leading into New Orleans from the east, lay shattered, dozens of huge slabs of concrete floating in the floodwaters. I-10 is the only route for commercial trucking across southern Louisiana.

    The sweltering city of 480,000 people — an estimated 80 percent of whom obeyed orders to evacuate as Katrina closed in over the weekend — also had no drinkable water, the electricity could be out for weeks, and looters were ransacking stores around town.

    “The logistical problems are impossible and we have to evacuate people in shelters,” the governor said. “It’s becoming untenable. There’s no power. It’s getting more difficult to get food and water supplies in, just basic essentials.”

    She gave no details on exactly where the refugees would be taken. But in Houston, Rusty Cornelius, a county emergency official, said at least 25,000 of them would travel in a bus convoy to Houston starting Wednesday and would be sheltered at the 40-year-old Astrodome, which is no longer used for professional sporting events.

    The Federal Emergency Management Agency was considering putting people on cruise ships, in tent cities, mobile home parks, and so-called floating dormitories — boats the agency uses to house its own employees.

    Once the levees are fixed, Maj. Gen. Don Riley of the Army Corps of Engineers said, it could take close to a month to get the water out of the city. If the water rises a few feet higher, it could also wipe out the water system for the whole city, said New Orleans’ homeland security chief, Terry Ebbert.

    A helicopter view of the devastation over Louisiana and Mississippi revealed people standing on black rooftops, baking in the sunshine while waiting for rescue boats.

    “I can only imagine that this is what Hiroshima looked like 60 years ago,” said Mississippi Gov. Haley Barbour after touring the destruction by air Tuesday.

    All day long, rescuers in boats and helicopters plucked bedraggled flood refugees from rooftops and attics. Louisiana Lt. Gov. Mitch Landrieu said 3,000 people have been rescued by boat and air, some placed shivering and wet into helicopter baskets. They were brought by the truckload into shelters, some in wheelchairs and some carrying babies, with stories of survival and of those who didn’t make it.

    “Oh my God, it was hell,” said Kioka Williams, who had to hack through the ceiling of the beauty shop where she worked as floodwaters rose in New Orleans’ low-lying Ninth Ward. “We were screaming, hollering, flashing lights. It was complete chaos.”

    Looting broke out in some New Orleans neighborhoods, prompting authorities to send more than 70 additional officers and an armed personnel carrier into the city. One police officer was shot in the head by a looter but was expected to recover, authorities said.

    A giant new Wal-Mart in New Orleans was looted, and the entire gun collection was taken, The Times-Picayune newspaper reported. “There are gangs of armed men in the city moving around the city,” said Ebbert, the city’s homeland security chief. Also, looters tried to break into Children’s Hospital, the governor’s office said.

    On New Orleans’ Canal Street, dozens of looters ripped open the steel gates on clothing and jewelry stores and grabbed merchandise. In Biloxi, Miss., people picked through casino slot machines for coins and ransacked other businesses. In some cases, the looting took place in full view of police and National Guardsmen.

    Blanco acknowledged that looting was a severe problem but said that officials had to focus on survivors. “We don’t like looters one bit, but first and foremost is search and rescue,” she said.

    Officials said it was simply too early to estimate a death toll. One Mississippi county alone said it had suffered at least 100 deaths, and officials are “very, very worried that this is going to go a lot higher,” said Joe Spraggins, civil defense director for Harrison County, home to Biloxi and Gulfport. In neighboring Jackson County, officials said at least 10 deaths were blamed on the storm.

    Several of the dead in Harrison County were from a beachfront apartment building that collapsed under a 25-foot wall of water as Hurricane Katrina slammed the Gulf Coast with 145-mph winds Monday. Louisiana officials said many were feared dead there, too, making Katrina one of the most punishing storms to hit the United States in decades.

    Blanco asked residents to spend Wednesday in prayer.

    “That would be the best thing to calm our spirits and thank our Lord that we are survivors,” she said. “Slowly, gradually, we will recover; we will survive; we will rebuild.”

    Across Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama, more than 1 million residents remained without electricity, some without clean drinking water. Officials said it could be weeks, if not months, before most evacuees will be able to return.

    Emergency medical teams from across the country were sent into the region and President Bush cut short his Texas vacation Tuesday to return to Washington to focus on the storm damage.

    Also, the Bush administration decided to release crude oil from federal petroleum reserves to help refiners whose supply was disrupted by Katrina. The announcement helped push oil prices lower.

    Katrina, which was downgraded to a tropical depression, packed winds around 30 mph as it moved through the Ohio Valley early Wednesday, with the potential to dump 8 inches of rain and spin off deadly tornadoes.

    The remnants of Katrina spawned bands of storms and tornadoes across Georgia that caused at least two deaths, multiple injuries and leveled dozens of buildings. A tornado damaged 13 homes near Marshall, Va.

    Associated Press reporters Holbrook Mohr, Mary Foster, Allen G. Breed, Adam Nossiter and Jay Reeves contributed to this report.

    On the Net:

    National Hurricane Center: http://www.nhc.noaa.gov

  • Wednesday, August 31, 2005







    New Orleans Is Now Off Limits; Pentagon Joins in Relief Effort




    Rick Wilking/Reuters

    A view along Canal Street in New Orleans Tuesday as floodwaters rose, threatening the French Quarter.

    August 31, 2005
    New Orleans Is Now Off Limits; Pentagon Joins in Relief Effort
    By JOSEPH B. TREASTER and N. R. KLEINFIELD

    NEW ORLEANS, Aug. 30 – A day after New Orleans thought it had narrowly escaped the worst of Hurricane Katrina’s wrath, water broke through two levees on Tuesday and virtually submerged and isolated the city, causing incalculable destruction and rendering it uninhabitable for weeks to come.

    With bridges washed out, highways converted into canals, and power and communications lines inoperable, government officials ordered everyone still remaining out of the city. Officials began planning for the evacuation of the Superdome, where about 10,000 refugees huddled in increasingly grim conditions as water and food were running out and rising water threatened the generators.

    The situation was so dire that late in the day the Pentagon ordered five Navy ships and eight Navy maritime rescue teams to the Gulf Coast to bolster relief operations. It also planned to fly in Swift boat rescue teams from California.

    As rising water and widespread devastation hobbled rescue and recovery efforts, the authorities could only guess at the death toll in New Orleans and across the Gulf Coast. In Mississippi alone, officials raised the official count of the dead to at least 100.

    “It looks like Hiroshima is what it looks like,” Gov. Haley Barbour said, describing parts of Harrison County, Miss.

    Across the region, rescue workers were not even trying to gather up and count the dead, officials said, but pushed them aside for the time being as they tried to find the living.

    As the sweep of the devastation became clear, President Bush cut short his monthlong summer vacation on Tuesday and returned to Washington, where he will meet on Wednesday with a task force established to coordinate the efforts of 14 federal agencies that will be involved in responding to the disaster.

    The scope of the catastrophe caught New Orleans by surprise. A certain sense of relief that was felt on Monday afternoon, after the eye of the storm swept east of the city, proved cruelly illusory, as the authorities and residents woke up Tuesday to a more horrifying result than had been anticipated. Mayor Ray Nagin lamented that while the city had dodged the worst-case scenario on Monday. Tuesday was “the second-worst-case scenario.”

    It was not the water from the sky but the water that broke through the city’s protective barriers that changed everything for the worse. New Orleans, with a population of nearly 500,000, is protected from the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain by levees. North of downtown, breaches in the levees sent the muddy waters of the lake pouring into the city.

    Streets that were essentially dry in the hours immediately after the hurricane passed were several feet deep in water on Tuesday morning. Even downtown areas that lie on higher ground were flooded. The mayor said both city airports were underwater.

    Mayor Nagin said that one of the levee breaches was two to three blocks long, and that the Federal Emergency Management Agency had been dropping 3,000-pound sandbags into the opening from helicopters, as well as sea-land containers with sand, to try to seal the break. Late Tuesday night, there were reports that the rising waters had caused a nearby station that pumps water out of the city to fail.

    New Orleans is below sea level, and the mayor estimated that 80 percent of the city was submerged, with the waters running as deep as 20 feet in some places. The city government regrouped in Baton Rouge, 80 miles to the northwest.

    Col. Terry Ebbert, the city’s director of homeland security, said the rushing waters had widened one of the breaches, making the repair work more difficult.

    While the bulk of New Orleans’s population evacuated before the storm, tens of thousands of people chose to remain in the city, and efforts to evacuate them were continuing. The authorities estimated that thousands of residents had been plucked off rooftops, just feet from the rising water.

    “The magnitude of the situation is untenable,” said Gov. Kathleen Babineaux Blanco of Louisiana. “It’s just heartbreaking.”

    Looting broke out as opportunistic thieves cleaned out abandoned stores for a second night. In one incident, officials said, a police officer was shot and critically wounded.

    “These are not individuals looting,” Colonel Ebbert said. “These are large groups of armed individuals.”

    Officials at the Louisiana Office of Homeland Security confirmed that officials in Plaquemines and Jefferson Parishes had tried to call for martial law, which is not authorized by the State Constitution.

    Offering up howling winds of as much as 145 miles an hour, the hurricane hit land in eastern Louisiana just after 6 a.m. Monday as a Category 4 storm, the second-highest rating, qualifying it as one of the strongest to strike the United States.

    Preliminary damage estimates from insurance experts on Monday ranged from $9 billion to $16 billion, but they were pushed up past $25 billion on Tuesday, which could make Hurricane Katrina the costliest in history, surpassing Hurricane Andrew in 1992, with $21 billion in insured losses.

    As the scope of the damage to oil and gas facilities in the Gulf of Mexico became more apparent, energy prices rocketed to record highs. Experts predicted that further increases were likely.

    Floodwaters were still rising as much as three inches an hour in parts of New Orleans late Tuesday. In other areas, they were beginning to subside.

    “I don’t want to alarm anyone that New Orleans is filling up like a bowl,” Michael Brown, FEMA’s director, said. “That isn’t happening.”

    More than 10,000 people remained stranded in the Louisiana Superdome, which was without power and surrounded by three to four feet of water. Swaths of the roof had been peeled away by the powerful winds, and it was stifling inside without air conditioning. Toilets were reported to be overflowing. A woman with an 18-month-old baby said her last bottle of baby formula was nearly empty.

    During the day, additional survivors were deposited at the Superdome by rescuers, but the absence of food and power, not to mention the water lapping at the doors, made their continued stay perilous. Hundreds of critically-ill patients had to be evacuated out of Charity Hospital and Tulane University Hospital because of the flooding.

    At Tulane, they were removed by helicopter from the roof of a parking garage. The staff of the Times-Picayune, which was able to publish only an online version of its edition on Tuesday, was forced to flee the paper’s offices.

    The Coast Guard estimated that about 1,200 people had been rescued Monday and thousands more on Tuesday. Efforts were hindered by phone and cellphone service being out in much of the city.

    Getting food and water into the city was an urgent priority. Officials said that there was only one way for emergency vehicles to get into parts of the city to bring in supplies.

    “We’re racing the clock in terms of possible injury,” said Michael Chertoff, the national homeland security secretary. “We’re racing the clock in terms of illness, and we’re racing the clock to get them food and water.”

    The hurricane, downgraded to a tropical depression by late Tuesday morning, continued to putter along into adjoining states, though its teeth were gone. It had left its mark on numerous Gulf Coast communities. In Mississippi, for example, Gulfport was virtually gone, and Biloxi was severely damaged.

    From the air, New Orleans was a shocking sight of utter demolition. Seen from the vantage point of a Jefferson Parish sheriff’s helicopter transporting FEMA officials, vast stretches of the city resembled a community of houseboats. Twenty-block neighborhoods were under water as high as the roofs of three-story houses. One large building, the Galleria, had most, if not all, of its 600 windows blown out.

    Sections of Interstate 10, the principal artery through the city, had pieces missing or misaligned, as if the highway were an unfinished jigsaw puzzle. Parts of the 24-mile-long Lake Pontchartrain Causeway, the world’s longest overwater highway bridge, were missing as well. Fires had broken out in sundry buildings, and hundreds of thousands of people were without power.

    One woman swam from her home on Monday and then walked through the night to take shelter in a 24-hour bar in the French Quarter. Another left her flooding house but could not persuade her elderly roommate to come with her. Her roommate insisted, “God will take care of me.”

    People waded through waist-high water, looking to determine the fate of their homes. Rescue workers, who were plucking people off roofs in rescue cages, reported seeing bodies floating through the water. Mayor Nagin said that as he flew over the city he saw bubbles in the water, which he said seemed to signify natural gas leaks.

    The mayor estimated it would be one to two weeks before the water could be pumped out, and two to four weeks before evacuees could be permitted back into the city. Another city official said it would be two months before the schools reopened.

    Tens of thousands of people are expected to need temporary homes for uncertain durations. The authorities were looking at renting apartments, putting people up in trailers and establishing floating dormitories.

    Parishes east of the city were also battered. The president of Plaquemines Parish, on the southeastern tip of Louisiana, announced that the lower half of the parish had been reclaimed by the river. St. Bernard Parish, adjacent to New Orleans, was largely rooftops and water.

    In South Diamondhead, Miss., on St. Louis Bay, all that remained of the entire community of 200 homes was pilings. Boats were stuck in trees.

    “Yeah, we caught it,” said Randy Keel, 46. “We basically got what we’re wearing.”

    Everyone was “walking around like zombies,” Mr. Keel said.

    Some Mississippi casinos, which had been floating on barges, were swept half a mile inland. An oil platform in the gulf was transported within a hundred yards of Dauphin Island, the barrier island at the south end of Mobile County, Ala., and much of that island was underwater.

    Peter Teahen, the national spokesman for the American Red Cross, said: “We are looking now at a disaster above any magnitude that we’ve seen in the United States. We’ve been saying that the response is going to be the largest Red Cross response in the history of the organization.”

    Meanwhile, the evacuated survivors tried to accept the images they saw on television. Vonda Simmons, 39, fled New Orleans with relatives on Saturday afternoon to stay with friends in Baton Rouge. When she saw footage of the hard-hit Lower Ninth Ward, where she lived, she assumed she had lost everything but she accepted fate’s hand.

    “We have the most prized possession,” Ms. Simmons said. “We have each other.”

    Joseph B. Treaster reported from New Orleans for this article, and N. R. Kleinfeld from New York. Reportingwas also contributed by Abby Goodnough, Kate Zernike and Shaila Dewan from Biloxi, Miss; Felicity Barringer from Houma, La.; Ralph Blumenthal from New Orleans; Michael Luo from New York; Jeremy Alford from Baton Rouge, La.; and Diane Allen from South Diamondhead, Miss.

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  • Alan Riding/The New York Times

    The novelist Paulo Coelho at his home near Lourdes in France.
    August 30, 2005
    Paulo Coelho: Writing in a Global Language
    By ALAN RIDING

    ST. MARTIN, France, Aug. 23 – Letting out a cry of delight, Paulo Coelho called a visitor over to read a new e-mail message announcing that French sales of his latest novel had exceeded 320,000 since its publication here in May.

    “That makes my day,” he said. “I had hoped they would go over 300,000.”

    Well, why not? Every writer wants his books to sell well.

    Yet, somehow, Mr. Coelho (pronounced co-AIL-you) is different from most.

    Now 58, the Brazilian author has over the past 18 years sold more than 65 million copies of his books in 59 languages, ranking him as one of the world’s most successful popular writers. Each new book, which he writes in Portuguese, involves an extraordinary operation of translation, printing, distribution and marketing. And then, it seems, Mr. Coelho sits back and counts the sales.

    The key that unlocked this writer’s dream world was “The Alchemist,” his inspirational fable about a Spanish shepherd boy who travels to the pyramids of Egypt in search of a treasure and instead finds his “personal legend,” or destiny. Mr. Coelho said that book alone, first published in Brazil in 1988, had so far sold close to 27 million copies worldwide, including 2.2 million in the United States.

    Now, however, Mr. Coelho’s attention is on his new semi-autobiographical novel, “The Zahir,” which has already topped the best-seller list in a score of countries and will be published in the United States in September by HarperCollins. So far, “The Alchemist” (HarperSanFrancisco, 1993) has been his only American best-seller, and Mr. Coelho is looking to “The Zahir” to raise his profile afresh in the United States.

    “I am not in the United States what I am in France or Spain or Germany,” he said in a long conversation in the all-glass dining room that reaches into the garden of his comfortable but simple home in the Pyrenees Mountains. “I have never broken the barrier of the press. In the United States, I am a great success, but I am not a celebrity.”

    Still, for all his fame elsewhere, Mr. Coelho, a slimly built man with a goatee, does not live the life of a celebrity. He spends half the year in Rio de Janeiro, the city of his birth, but it is in this tiny village where he says he feels most at ease. When not writing, he cuts the grass, practices archery, reads and keeps in touch with the world electronically.

    “I have 500 television channels and I live in a village with no bakery,” he said with a laugh.

    What brought him here, though, was not the bucolic appeal of rural France. Rather, it was that St. Martin is just 10 miles from the shrine to the Virgin Mary at Lourdes.

    “I am a Catholic,” he said, “not so committed to the church, but to the idea of the Virgin, the female face of God. I have spent every New Year’s Eve since 1992 in Lourdes. I spend the hour of my birth every year in the grotto. It’s a place with meaning for me.”

    Not that Mr. Coelho is a Roman Catholic writer. Indeed, through their portrayals of more generic spiritual searches or inner journeys, many of his books have spoken to readers in countries with cultures and beliefs as different as Egypt and Israel, India and Japan. His explanation?

    “I know we have the same questions,” he said. “But we don’t have the same answers.”

    Mr. Coelho’s own journey has not been without incident. His rebellious adolescence led his parents to send him to a psychiatric hospital on three occasions. In the early 1970′s, living the life of a hippie and devoted, in his words, to “sex, drugs and rock ‘n’ roll,” he wrote lyrics for protest songs that prompted the military government that controlled Brazil then to jail him three times. Later, he worked in the record business – until he was fired.

    Then, at 36, he decided to follow the medieval pilgrims’ road to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. That resulted in his first book, “The Pilgrimage,” which, while barely noticed at the time in Brazil, persuaded him not only to dedicate himself to writing but also to pursue his search for some meaning to his life. His second book, “The Alchemist,” also sold slowly until it became an unexpected best seller in France in the early 1990′s – and then the world followed.

    Even now, though, Mr. Coelho says his search goes on.

    “Each book is a little bit more about me,” he explained. “What surprises me is when I’m called a spiritual writer. For me, the pursuit of happiness is a lie, as if there were a point when everything changes, when you become wise. I believe enlightenment or revelation comes in daily life. I look for joy, the peace of action. You need action. I’d have stopped writing years ago if it were for the money.”

    In “The Zahir,” he said, he wrote about a writer because that is what he knows about. As it happens, this writer, who tells his story in the first person, is also immensely successful, his books global best sellers that, like Mr. Coelho’s own books, are occasionally savaged by literary critics but are lapped up by loyal readers. The story, though, is not Mr. Coelho’s story.

    In the narrative, the writer’s journalist wife, Esther, decides to become a war correspondent, then disappears mysteriously. Eventually, he meets a mystical young man from Kazakhstan called Mikhail who seems to know Esther’s whereabouts but insists that the writer must know himself better if he can hope to be reunited with her. And after a series of adventures and omens, the writer duly heads for Kazakhstan.

    “The Zahir,” an Arab concept borrowed from a short story by Jorge Luis Borges, is described by Mr. Coelho as a thought or idea that gradually becomes obsessional. In the book, the narrator’s “Zahir” is the missing Esther.

    “There’s a lot of me in it,” Mr. Coelho said, albeit noting that he has now been married to his artist wife, Christina Oiticica, for 26 years. “But the character is more egotistical. I’m also egotistical, but not the way the character is. This guy is successful, he has everything, but his wife has left him. The most important value – love – is missing. What is wrong with this institution called ‘marriage’? What is wrong with this institution called ‘the pursuit of happiness’?”

    As so often with Mr. Coelho’s books, including other major best sellers like “Veronika Decides to Die” and “Eleven Minutes,” the reviews for “The Zahir” have ranged from admiring to insulting, with the most scathing language proffered by those who believe Mr. Coelho poses as a guru.

    “I never say I am a guru,” he insisted. “That person does not exist. Readers only want to know if I have the same question as they have. But if I gave an answer, they’d soon see it was false. Many readers send me e-mails saying their lives have changed. But I didn’t change those people. Everything was ready. Perhaps the book changed them.”

    As for negative reviews, he says he is stoical.

    “No one is going to change the way I write,” he said. “Borges said there are only four stories to tell: a love story between two people, a love story between three people, the struggle for power and the voyage. All of us writers rewrite these same stories ad infinitum.”

    “But the one thing I cannot stand,” Mr. Coelho went on, “is criticism of the reader, that the reader is dumb. You can speak badly of me, of my books, but you cannot speak badly of the reader. It’s like saying, ‘Everyone is dumb; the only one who isn’t is the critic.’ That’s not fair.”

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  • An MTV Coming of Age That Went Far on Charm




    Michael Muller/MTV

    The cast of this season’s “Laguna Beach.” The series follows the lives of eight California teenagers

    August 30, 2005
    An MTV Coming of Age That Went Far on Charm
    By MARGY ROCHLIN

    LOS ANGELES, Aug. 29 – Last November, Lauren Conrad, 19, attended a celebrity-filled function thrown by Teen People magazine, a perk of being a central character on MTV’s popular reality series “Laguna Beach: The Real Orange County.” There, she encountered another perk: she spotted one of her favorite pop singers. “I was like, ‘Oh, my God! Ashlee Simpson’s here!’ ” recalled Ms. Conrad, who, last season, was the dejected party in a love triangle that also included a model-pretty surfer named Stephen and his swaggering younger girlfriend, Kristin. “I was freaking out, pretending like I didn’t see her. Then Ashlee Simpson walked right up to me and was, like: ‘L.C., love your show! I watch it every week with my friends!’ ” The third perk.

    Judging from the ratings, Ms. Simpson and her pals are not the only ones tuning in to MTV on Monday nights at 10. The series, a glossily photographed chronicle of a year in the lives of eight perfectly tanned teenagers at Laguna Beach High School, slowly continued to pick up speed until the first-season finale drew almost three million viewers.

    To lure back its audience after a seven-and-a-half-month hiatus, MTV employed some of its time-honored tactics: raining teen product – signature “Laguna Beach” key chains, flip-flops and back-to-school notebooks – upon its target 12-to-34-year-old demographic, while airing plenty of catch-up marathons before Season 2 began on July 25.

    Since then, the show and its fusion of unscripted entertainment and night-time soap opera has become an unqualified hit for the channel. Last season, the show averaged 2.2 million viewers; this year, the average is 3.1 million, according to Nielsen Media Research.

    But MTV did not build that kind of “Laguna Beach” love with just promos, reruns and logo-bearing tchotchkes. It began a campaign that gave its audience the feeling they were already living in a “Laguna Beach” all-media universe. For those who did not catch the three-minute “Laguna Beach” commercial playing in 2,200 movie theaters across the country, there was a compilation CD. The “Laguna Beach: Complete First Season” DVD included bonus features that ranged from behind-the-scenes material (original casting tapes, deleted scenes) to old film that had been enterprisingly repackaged (a clip reel titled “Laguna Looks” featured show regulars in close-up as their trademark expressions – hound-dog lust, raised-brow surprise, squinty-eyed jealousy – register on their camera-ready faces).

    To help shuttle traffic to MTV.com, the three-disc set included a special code that provided entry into a velvet-rope section of the Web site called the Laguna Beach V.I.P. Surf Club that featured a full scene from the following week’s show. Viewers without the code could find solace in the Internet video channel MTV Overdrive (mtv.com/overdrive), which offers an online after-show.

    Although there is nothing new about saturating every medium to advertise a television show, MTV’s president of entertainment, Brian Graden, said the promotional assault had a modern twist.

    “In the past, if ‘Laguna Beach’ was a hit, you wait a few months and put out the DVD and then make sure you’ve got some information on MTV.com – but all of that was very ancillary,” Mr. Graden said in a telephone interview. “Our proposition is that it’s not ancillary. In fact, it’s reinforcing, all feeding each other.”

    One of the most intriguing aspects of the show’s popularity is that it is a drama writ very small. Though the series has been described as MTV’s vérité version of Fox’s “O.C.,” it is the latter that contains story lines that address real-world teenager problems: the pain of divorce, binge drinking, date rape. Over the course of an episode of “Laguna Beach,” a viewer can expect a few spats, a betrayal or two, maybe a trip to the beach and a lot of rapid flipping through racks of expensive, hankie-size dresses at the mall. It is a show that gets its tension from observing how rich, beautiful adolescents with few discernible responsibilities – no curfew, no housework – introduce Sturm und Drang into their otherwise unfettered lives.

    In 2003, when Liz Gateley, the “Laguna Beach” creator and executive producer, proposed the idea to MTV, she used the 1989 queen-bee film classic and “Mean Girls” predecessor, “Heathers,” as a reference point.

    “At that age, it’s all about the alpha clique – people trying to get into the alpha clique, how brutal it is to be in the alpha clique,” said Ms. Gately, who grew up in Palos Verdes, Calif., a wealthy oceanside enclave roughly 50 miles from Laguna, and who knows a thing or two about a certain kind of privileged West Coast adolescent. “Everything is relationship-driven. It’s a warped reality. I think the biggest hesitation was, ‘Can you tap into a clique of friends and have them all be interesting and beautiful?’ I told them, ‘They’re a dime-a-dozen in Southern California. They’re everywhere.’ “

    Before being employed by MTV, Ms. Gately was a director of development at the Lifetime channel, where she worked on the celebrity biography series “Intimate Portrait.”

    “Laguna Beach” forgoes the staples of the reality genre – shaky hand-held shots or grainy private-booth confessions – and borrows its devices from prime-time teen dramas like WB’s “Dawson’s Creek.” When the narrative needs nudging, the camera will linger on a youthful cast member’s silently emoting visage while a pop song with soul-searching lyrics swells in the background. Compiled from clips that have been shot from a variety of angles using up to three Panasonic DVCPR050 cameras with specially outfitted lenses, every frame of “Laguna Beach” looks like it has been dipped in honey. The style is so foreign to the genre that when strangers approach Kristin Cavallari, a “Laguna Beach” cast member, the conversation always starts the same way. “The No. 1 question is, ‘Is it real or not?’ ” Ms. Cavallari said.

    Well?

    “It’s as real as any reality show,” said Tony DiSanto, an executive producer of “Laguna Beach.” “These are the real kids. The things they’re saying are unscripted; it’s what goes on in their lives. What we chose to show or not show is where we are editorializing. And just like any reality show, if two kids say they want to go out to dinner and we know that this one restaurant will not allow us to shoot in there then we can’t get the scene. So we may ask them, ‘You know what? Would you guys mind going to this one where they’ll let us shoot?’ They say yes or may say no. It’s obviously their decision.”

    Ms. Cavallari is a breakout reality star who seems to delight in her blunt observations – she is Alexis Carrington in a sand-stippled bikini. “Kristin, no matter how much you hate her, she’s always fun to hang out with,” said Ms. Conrad, Ms. Cavallari’s archrival on the show. Last season Ms. Conrad was in love with Ms. Cavallari’s cheekbone-rich boyfriend, Stephen Colletti, and it was her voice recapping the previous episode before every show.

    This year, it is Ms. Cavallari doing the summarizing in her Orange County lockjaw. She has appeared on “Live With Regis and Kelly” and has posed for the cover of Seventeen magazine. Mr. Colletti, meanwhile, has posed for a fashion spread in Teen Vogue. Both Ms. Cavallari and Mr. Colletti have signed up a team of talent representatives in the hopes landing roles on scripted television shows. “I want to go to college and study broadcast journalism, and also I’m going to start taking some acting classes,” Ms. Cavallari said.

    Ms. Conrad has no such aspirations. At least she doesn’t anymore.

    “Post the first season, we were all getting offers; so I thought, ‘Why not give it a try?’, and took acting lessons,” she said. “I was the joke of the class.”

    “I’m horrible,” she said with a laugh. Still, she has done her bit to promote the series. Recently, for example, she was filmed performing menial tasks in the West Coast offices of Vogue magazine for a possible “Laguna Beach” spinoff and can be seen smiling shyly in a huge, four-color “Laguna Beach” group shot. “My aunt told me that she saw it up in Wal-Mart,” Ms. Conrad said. “The first time I ever was in a Wal-Mart, and it’s on a poster.”

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  • Search For Survivors




    August 30, 2005

    Rescuers Search for Survivors as Higher Death Tolls Are Feared




    NEW ORLEANS, Aug. 30 – The waters of swollen Lake Pontchartrain poured into this sunken city today through a gaping hole in a storm-damaged levee, as emergency workers labored to stanch the flow and used boats and helicopters to rescue hundreds of people stranded on rooftops.


    A day after Katrina ripped through here, city officials announced that they were moving their government out of town, which they said was 80 percent under increasingly contaminated water, and state officials ordered everyone else except emergency workers to evacuate as well.


    Electric power was out, phone service was spotty and the supply of food and clean drinking water was dwindling, officials said. Tens of thousands of people were reported in shelters in Louisiana and Mississippi, the states hardest hit by Katrina.


    “The situation is untenable,” Gov. Kathleen Babineaux Blanco of Louisiana said at an afternoon news briefing. “It’s just heartbreaking.” But, she vowed, “we will recover.”


    Mayor C. Ray Nagin of New Orleans said on CNN that his unique and historic city, which had been jarringly transformed overnight, was “in a state of devastation.”


    “We’re not even dealing with dead bodies,” Mr. Nagin said, according to The Associated Press. “They’re just pushing them on the side.”


    Gas fires were erupting throughout the city, looters were raiding abandoned businesses downtown, hospitals were making plans to airlift critically ill patients to other cities, numerous roadways were buckled, and residents who had tried to ride out the storm were frantically waving for rescue from their rooftops. A spokesman for the Coast Guard said that more than 1,200 people had been taken to safety by boat and helicopter on Monday and “thousands today.”


    The secretary of the Department of Homeland Security, Michael Chertoff, said the primary focus of the federal rescue effort was still on search and rescue. “Rescuing people who are stranded is the most pressing problem,” Mr. Chertoff said. “We’re racing the clock in terms of possible injury. We’re racing the clock in terms of illness, and we’re racing the clock to get them food and water.”


    Katrina, one of the most devastating storms ever to hit the United States, has caused at least 70 deaths, by some estimates, in Louisiana, Mississippi and Florida, which it hit late last week, with officials saying they fear the final toll will be higher. But even as the storm was reduced to a tropical depression late today, now centered in Tennessee, its effects continued to threaten the Gulf Coast region.


    Preliminary reports on Monday put the overall death toll in Louisiana and Mississippi at 55, and officials could not provide firm updated numbers today. Gov. Haley Barbour of Mississippi said that the death toll in just one county in his state could be as high as 80.


    The toll in economic damage appeared to be staggering. AIR Worldwide, a risk assessment firm, offered an estimate of cost to insurance companies of $17 billion to $25 billion.


    In New Orleans, until last night a popular, carefree tourist destination, officials said the widespread flooding could get worse if damage to the city’s protective levees was not repaired soon.


    Although flooding was shallow in some places, in others it was much as 20 feet, and city officials were telling people to get out, saying the municipal government itself was relocating to Baton Rouge.


    Rising water was even invading the Superdome, where some 10,000 people had sought refuge as Katrina bore down on the city. It could be weeks before the city’s 466,000 residents and countless business owners and tourists are allowed back in.


    The flooding in New Orleans was the result of large breach in a levee on a canal that keeps the waters of Lake Pontchartrain out of the city. The hole, at the 17th Street flood wall, is at least 100 yards long and officials say it may be getting bigger.


    The United States Army Corps of Engineers was trying to plug the gap by using helicopters to drop huge sandbags – each weighing 3,000 pounds – into the breech.


    New Orleans lies mostly below sea level and is protected by a network of pumps, canals and levees. But many of the pumps were not working this morning. CNN reported that the storm caused another breach at Industrial Canal, and that corps officials feared another gap forming near Pumping Station No. 6.


    The water coming through the first gap gushed into residential areas and moved down into the center of the city toward the Mississippi River, but so far, the French Quarter was dry. Other hazards arose.


    “The looting is out of control – the French Quarter has been attacked,” a New Orleans councilwoman, Jackie Clarkson, told The A.P. “We’re using exhausted, scarce police to control looting when they should be used for search and rescue.”


    Deputy Police Chief Warren Riley told the news agency said that in one case, a looter shot and wounded another looter.


    More than 1,600 Mississippi national guardsmen were activated to help with the recovery, and the Alabama Guard planned to send two battalions to Mississippi, The A.P. reported.


    The White House said President Bush would curtail his vacation in Texas by two days and return to Washington on Wednesday to deal with the recovery effort, even as the Pentagon was about to announce that it was organizing a military task force to help officials in the affected areas with rescue efforts and law enforcement.


    As dawn broke today, rescuers set out in boats and helicopters to search for survivors. A reporter who accompanied Jefferson Parish sheriff’s rescue officials on a flight over the area saw floodwaters reaching to the eaves of some three-story houses. Hundreds of people trapped on roofs waved frantically for rescue. Coast Guard and police Blackhawk helicopters were plucking them off one by one.


    “The devastation down there is just enormous,” Governor Barbour of Mississippi said on the NBC “Today” show. “I hate to say it, but it looks like it is a very bad disaster in terms of human life,” he added, referring to Harrison County, which includes Gulfport and Biloxi.


    “This is our tsunami,” Mayor A. J. Holloway of Biloxi told The Biloxi Sun Herald.


    The entire city of New Orleans was ordered evacuated before the storm, and Mayor Nagin said about 80 percent of the city’s residents had left. But today, even as rescuers continued to search for victims, other officials had to deal with looters. CNN showed images of hundreds of people breaking into stores on Canal Street, at the edge of the French Quarter, and running away with bagloads of merchandise, with no one stopping them.


    Officials at the Louisiana Office of Homeland Security said today that presidents of Plaquemines and Jefferson Parishes, which include New Orleans, as well as other communities throughout the state, had sought the imposition of martial law, which would suspend certain civil rights. Officials were awaiting direction from the attorney general’s office.


    President Bush, in a televised news conference in San Diego, urged people in the affected areas to listen to instructions from state and federal authorities, who he said were working to “get people back on their feet – we have a lot of work to do.”


    “These are trying times for the people of these communities,” Mr. Bush said. “We know that many are anxious to return to their homes. It’s not possible at this moment. Right now our priority is on saving lives, and we are still in the midst of search and rescue operations.”


    Around midday, the National Hurricane Center in Miami said Katrina had been reduced to a tropical depression, with maximum sustained winds of 35 miles per hour, and was centered near Clarksville, Tenn., just northwest of Nashville. It continued to cause flooding as it made its way north.


    In Diamondhead, Miss., in a grim scene that is probably being repeated in countless other places nearby, the fire department was going door to door this morning to search for survivors. If they found no victims, members of the Fire and Rescue team painted large C’s on the front doors of buildings, many of which were barely standing.


    Many people had fled to this community, about 60 miles northeast of New Orleans, thinking they were reaching higher safer ground that would keep them out of harm’s way. Instead, many were caught in Katrina’s surge that pushed through Bay St. Louis on the Gulf Coast and into the bayous, forcing water to the top of second-story homes in Diamondhead.


    Relatives of Rhea M. Finnila, 84, who suffers from Alzheimer’s disease, had brought her up to the attic of her son’s home in Diamondhead, hoping to keep her safe, but the floodwaters that reached almost to the eaves of the house nearly carried her away on the mattress on which her family had placed her.


    “When the surge came, the mattress was floating most of the time,” said Rich L. Finnila, 59, a relative. “It was a struggle to get her in there.”


    Brian P. Finnila, Mrs. Finnila’s grandson, said, “We started climbing and pushing.”


    After the storm, fire and rescue workers who found them used a blanket to carry Mrs. Finnila out of the house and then loaded her in the back of a Jeep to take her to another relative’s house.


    Jeff G. Garth, 34, and his family, from Waveland, which is on the coast, sought refuge in Diamondhead with his sister-in-law, Tammy L. Lick, 35, who had bought her home only a month ago.


    The house did not survive Katrina.


    “The whole house is gone – everything in it,” Ms. Lick said. “They told us we needed wind and hail insurance, but [that] we didn’t flood here. Little did we know.”


    Yet no one was injured.


    In New Orleans, a survey team was sent to inspect an overflowing canal that was adding to already flooded areas, Lt. Kevin Cowan of the National Guard, serving in the Louisiana Office of Emergency Preparedness, said in a telephone interview this morning. The assumption is that the canal is “simply overflowing,” he said, but the team will also look for possible breeches in the levee system.


    A total of more than 2.1 million people have reported power outages in Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, and Florida, the United States Department of Energy said.


    Scott Adcock, public information manager with the Alabama Emergency Management Agency, said in a telephone interview that more than 790,000 people were without power. Authorities are starting damage assessment today with helicopters and people on the ground, but flooding and debris are hampering efforts in some areas, he said.


    About 66 shelters are now holding 5,300 people, and four medical-needs shelters are holding 36, he said, adding “We are dealing with widespread power outages.”


    “The serious flooding is in Baldwin and Mobile counties,” Mr. Adcock said. “Some people were rescued in boats, but there are no confirmed reports of casualties directly related to the hurricane.”


    “We are looking at trees down, power lines down,” he said. Parts of the downtown Mobile area are under water, he said, but he did not know how many feet deep.


    Michael Brown, director of the Federal Emergency Management Agency, told CNN from Baton Rouge, La., that additional medical teams were being brought in by air and that California search and rescue teams had been called in “for their expertise” in deep-water and swift-water rescues.


    “Right now we have two priorities, saving lives and sustaining lives,” he added.


    “We have literally thousands of people in shelters whose lives we have to sustain, so we have to get commodities to those people,” Mr. Brown said. “We’re just in full operational mode right now.”


    “We have a disaster here that really as I can best describe it is of sobering proportions,” he added.


    Joseph B. Treaster and Ralph Blumenthal reported from New Orleans for this article, and Kate Zernike from Montgomery, Ala. Reporting was contributed by Abby Goodnough in Mobile, Ala.; Brenda Goodman in Atlanta, Michael M. Luo in New York; James Dao in Hattiesburg., Miss.; Jeremy Alford in Baton Rouge, La.; Diane Allen in Diamondhead, Miss., and Terence Neilan, Christine Hauser, Natalie Layzell and Shadi Rahimi in New York.


    Copyright 2005 The New York Times Company

  • Transcript of the Rolling Stones interview




    Transcript of the Rolling Stones interview
    BY BRIAN MCCOLLUM
    FREE PRESS POP MUSIC WRITER

    August 30, 2005


    The Rolling Stones are rolling on — this time to Detroit, where the veteran rock ‘n’ roll outfit will perform Wednesday night at Comerica Park.

    The band’s Keith Richards and Mick Jagger each talked last week with Free Press pop music writer Brian McCollum. They were fresh off a pair of shows at Boston’s Fenway Park, opening nights on the Stones’ latest U.S. tour.



    KEITH RICHARDS
    Free Press: I imagine there’s got to be some moment at the start of a tour when it kind of hits you that, “Wow, here we are again, and here are all these people again.” What’s the feeling like when you’re first getting back out there?


    Richards: It’s kind of strange. I’ve thought about this sometimes. Everybody has their own individual reaction to it, and at the same time there has to be also this collective reaction as well. So I can’t talk for anybody else. But in a way, the tension builds up, which other people like to call butterflies — I don’t. Whatever you call it, mine builds up to the point where, “Come on, guys, time to let the tigers out of the cage. Open up, I’m ready to go, let’s see what the world has to offer,” so to speak. But that’s still just a version of what people like to call butterflies. Although I’ve actually never felt that feeling, except in late nights in johns where I’ve taken something really bad for me, you know. (Laughs)


    The first cut is the deepest; the first show is the hardest. That’s where you find out if all the things you’ve put together — the stage, the sound, the lighting, the actual songs — this is the first time they all come together in one thing. So you feel like this could all fall apart like a paper moon! You’re not expecting it to, but there is that whole (fear of), will all the bits work properly — the new B stage, the new machinery. There’s so many variables that have to come together in a couple of hours. Once that’s gone down, well then, a sort of amazing well of confidence seems to exude. Not just from the band, but from the whole crew, from everybody — the caterers and the wardrobe.


    It’s a circus we’re traveling with. Even the bearded lady likes it! (Laughs)


    Free Press: You’ve been doing this so long, so much of this has to be second nature to you at this point. But are there still things to discover in these songs, in terms of your guitar playing, in terms of the band’s performance together?


    Richards: It’s exactly like that. The fact that you’ve done it many times before doesn’t mean you can’t make the next one better. And that’s exactly what this band goes out there to do — “If you thought that was good, we can do it better next time.” And yeah, the fact that we’ve done it so many times only means the machinery is moving smooth. It gives you the opportunity to poke a little bit further into the song or try a different nuance and tempo — that’s exactly what it’s about. I’d have never thought it in the early days, but we’re actually dedicated, man. I can’t put another word on it. If we’re gonna do it, we’d better do it better than ever. And that’s kind of the feeling that’s rolling around right now.


    Free Press: You talk about smooth-running machinery. But this is rock ‘n’ roll, where things have to get a little dirty, right?


    Richards: Yeah, you’ve got to keep room for surprises. You can’t over-rehearse. You can’t do these sort of things of knowing exactly where every beat falls. Because, I mean, rock ‘n’ roll still is an offshoot of jazz as well. As you know, Charlie Watts is a fan. There’s a lot of jazzers in our band, and quite honestly it’s probably more of a jazz band than anyone would want to admit, in the fact that we do leave room for interpretation.


    Nobody, I don’t think, plays the same song twice the same. In efforts to try to get it better, you might overstretch yourself occasionally. But there’s plenty of room to maneuver within these songs. I mean, I’m still finding notes in new places. “Jumping Jack Flash” — I don’t think I’ve ever exhausted. But I can exhaust me! (Laughs)


    Free Press: Have there been points in the Stones’ career when perhaps things did get a bit too smooth, too streamlined?


    Richards: I know what you mean. I’ve no doubt there were in the ’70s — probably more in the ’80s. We were sort of feeding a machine rather than controlling it. Stoking, rather than deciding what came out of the furnace.


    It’s just a feeling, because the thing keeps getting bigger. To us, this isn’t just doing another big tour. Every time you do one, things have changed, technologies have changed, possibilities have changed, people have changed. It’s really rolling with the changes and trying to put it all together.


    We’re just as bemused as most other people at a Rolling Stones show. “What’s gonna happen next?” “Well, I can’t tell you either — hopefully it’ll be good!” (Laughs)


    You never stop learning. It’s never the same thing. As I was saying to the guys the other day — here we go, it’s like Columbus again! It’s another adventure, another trip into the unknown. Cast off!


    Free Press: Looking back at your life as a guitar player, how have your technique and approach to the instrument changed — say, 2005 next to 1965?


    Richards: In ’65, I was still trying to emulate. Coming up with some ideas, but basically I’m approaching every song like, “I’m gonna play like him, or him, or him” — my heroes, the guys that you learn from and listen to. It was kind of fractured. … You don’t have time to think about that in 1965. They sort of bang on the door — “Where’s the next single?” And you’re kind of struggling to keep up, because you weren’t prepared for this pressure.


    There was a certain point — I don’t know whether it was the late ’70s, I guess somewhere in the middle ’70s — where I realized I was no longer thinking of approaching a song and saying, “Well, I’m going to borrow Chuck (Berry’s) style, or Muddy Waters’ style, or Bo Diddley’s, or Otis Rush.” I didn’t call upon all my mentors all the time. I suddenly, without knowing it, sort of realized. … And that happens if you play enough; you develop your own style. Now people talk about my style, but I’m still trying to find it! (Laughs) It’s an evolving thing, that’s what I’m trying to say, I guess.


    Free Press: Another big difference now, it seems, is that the electric rock guitar has developed a kind of following, a mythology, that wasn’t quite in place during the early ’60s.


    Richards: You’re probably right, there. The whole thing just got a lot bigger. And I guess there’s a lot more people now that have been at some point in their time — even if just for fun or playing in the local bars — who have been in rock ‘n’ roll bands. Nearly every bloke I meet is like, “I used to play drums, and then I played…,” you know what I mean? It’s sort of part of the thing of growing up. Whereas when I did it, you were either a musician or you weren’t, and there was sort of a huge gap between.


    I think maybe that’s the joy of it. The joy of music is playing it. And it doesn’t matter if anybody’s listening even. It’s just yourself. No doubt, most guitar players, like me, start off applauding themselves at the top of the stairs or in the basement or something — “I thought I did that pretty good. Fortunately, nobody was here!” (Laughs)


    To me, music is just an important thing in people’s lives, and it’s very nice. There are so many good musicians out there. I’d be running off ’til midnight talking about my favorite guitar players. So many good pickers, and some cats that nobody even knows.


    There’s an innate joy in playing music, and also in turning other people on, and it doesn’t matter on what scale you do it. It should just be part of life, you know? That’s what it is. We do it on a large scale — that’s just the way it panned out. But I’ve no doubt I’d be doing it if I was just doing it on the weekends down at the pub.


    Free Press: Do you still feel any type of pressure at this point in being elevated by legions of people around the world?


    Richards: I think we all try to ignore it, or learn to live with it in our own different ways, for guitar players or songwriters. Mick is incredibly equipped for dealing with it. Actually, he alerts me to most of the things going on that I don’t know. Because most of that is related to the business end of it, all the possibilities. “I’ll just stay in the workshop and write some songs — and let me know if there’s anything important, and we’ll make up our mind.” He’s far more inquisitive about that, and after all we do have to split the jobs. Sometimes I’ll find out things he doesn’t know, which he really hates. (Laughs) “I didn’t know about that, why didn’t I know about it?!”


    When you’re in a band, especially when you get on the road, you become very insulated. You meet people you want to meet. Everybody has to sit around once in a while and say, “What do you think about this?” Whether it’s a song, or how do we deal with the governor of California coming in. There’s all those side trips coming in to deflect what you’re doing. So you have to be ready to be on the ball, because you never know what the next incoming is going to bring.


    Free Press: I know that when you were starting out, British bands like you and the Beatles often spoke of America as this kind of enormous place to be conquered. Sort of a blend of awe and intimidation. Is that sense still part of the emotional mix when you embark on a U.S. tour four decades later?


    Richards: America is a great place, man. It’s still a young country, it has to sort itself out. (Laughs). But yeah, it’s fascinating. I live here. You’re quite right — before the Beatles and ourselves got to America, America was the source of promise. It really was the promised land, you know? And it was the place where our music came from. If you wanted to get close to what it is you were doing, the better thing than getting a record was to go there — let alone play to America.


    So I think that flipped us all. It certainly flipped the Beatles and us. You certainly thought you’d died and gone to the fairy land. And the chicks are amazing!



    MICK JAGGER
    Free Press: Every time you’ve toured for the past 15 years, it seems the press has stuck with the same old theme, so to speak: the band’s age. So let’s get it out of the way. What’s the most common annoying question you have to keep fending off?


    Jagger: “Is this gonna be your last tour?” I just started this one — I can’t even think about any other ones. (Laughs)


    We still haven’t done an indoor show yet (on this tour), so I’m working on the indoor show at the moment. The stage is a bit different, the prod is a bit different … set lists, lighting plots, all that.


    Free Press: OK, but before I veer away from the age thing: There’s a great interview with you from the early ’70s, a segment that ran on Dick Cavett’s show and just released on a new DVD of his. He had specifically asked you if you could see yourself doing this at age 60, and you didn’t even stop to think — you immediately said yes. That’s the earliest point in your career that I’d seen you so explicitly address that topic, which obviously has come to be a defining mark of the Stones.


    Jagger: I think that by then the whole tour thing was a big thing already. It was already very organized and very similar to doing arena tours today — you carried your own sound and lights, it was a production already, and all these things. And so you could see that working.


    Before that, there wasn’t really a touring business. But then it quickly organized itself into a business, I guess you’d say, an organized thing — so now you could see, I guess, that this was one of those things that could run and run.


    And I’d already probably learned not to say no to everything. (Laughs)


    Free Press: In the sense that the old blues guys have never caught flak for playing on and on, it seems OK for the Stones to keep on and on. Keith has described the Stones today as something of pioneers, going into territory no big rock band has explored.


    Jagger: Well, I don’t really buy that. Yeah, we’re doing it where no one’s done it, but you’re still doing the same thing you did. … You’re doing what you do best in your chosen venue and so on, in what’s now become a traditional business. Doing the arena shows now is very similar to doing the arena shows in 1972. And there are the blues guys — but the blues guys used to play in very small theaters and clubs, not huge stadiums. When blues people toured, it wasn’t an event — they toured permanently. And the thing about this that’s different is it’s an event, and you try to make it an event. You don’t do it permanently.


    Free Press: Certainly by the time of that Dick Cavett interview, for instance, you were also on to a second generation of fans. Is there a particular moment you can recall when it struck you that the Stones really could keep going and going?


    Jagger: No idea when that moment was when it did occur. Maybe in the ’70s — (the time) we just talked about, but I can’t remember any sort of cathartic moment where that … I mean, you shouldn’t take too much for granted in any business, let alone show business. It’s not a good thing to take too much for granted.


    I mean, things could’ve gone either way. In the ’70s, people were still very concentrated on records — the whole thing was to do with records. You didn’t make a lot of money out of touring; you promoted your record. But a whole lot of things, when you look back on it, started in the ’70s — sponsorship by commercial companies, which we started doing then. Selling merchandise, which had always happened but never made any money. It had been just a joke for fun, you know, “It’d be nice to have a T-shirt.” So that (picked up) in the ’70s.


    The whole thing started moving away from just making money out of records. Which is great. Making records is wonderful, but the point was you were doing all this touring and you were losing money. It was an inefficient business. You’d play for six months and have a great time, and then come to the end of it and someone would say, “Well, you made this amount of money,” and you’d go, “Whoa, that’s very little.” We worked very hard and had nothing to show for it.


    It was a very ad hoc thing, where you’d get booked into a theater one minute and a stadium the next, and didn’t know where you were going to play one day to the next. It was very disorganized — some places filled up, some places completely empty. Very bizarre, so inefficient. It’s not like you wanted to become zillionaires, but you just felt that it wasn’t really worth it, almost, to do it so hard with so much aggression every night.


    But then it all sort of changed — it gradually evolved into something where it started to make money. When you started to make money it became a bit easier, because you could do it slightly more leisurely.


    Free Press: Is it possible in this day and age for a band to attain that kind of larger-than-life status that a band like the Rolling Stones could achieve? So much has changed about the kind of availability fans have to stars now, in a sense, because of the media explosion and the rest of it. I just wonder if it’s possible for a band today to build that kind of untouchable aura, because there are so many more ways for people to access their artists than when you hit big.


    Jagger: No, there wasn’t that much then. Obviously there was no Internet. But you never know what’s going to happen to a band. There could be a band happening now that could achieve that, but you’re not going to see it for a while. I don’t see why that shouldn’t happen again, just because people are more available. If you think about it, the Rolling Stones were pretty available in the ’60s — we used to do every kind of TV show. (Laughs) Ed Sullivan regularly, all these funny little TV shows. We used to do the equivalent of “Saturday Night Live.” We did many, many things. So we were pretty available. We’d do every interview, more or less, that was asked of us. That’s part of what you do when you’re up and coming — you don’t say no to everything.


    Free Press: There’s been a lot of attention, particularly here in Detroit of course, on Eminem’s recent issues, and perhaps a coming change for him career-wise. The whole burn-out-or-fade-away thing is a long argument in rock ‘n’ roll. The Stones obviously chose at some point to keep on going, and your legacy hasn’t necessarily been harmed by that.


    Jagger: There do come points, especially early in your career, where you do feel burned out because you work so much. We used to do the recording studio for two weeks, than the road for four weeks, one show every night, TV shows the same night as the live show. It’s pretty desperate. And there’s people pushing you, pushing you. You just go on the roller coaster, really. You come to the end of this stuff and you just go, like, “Wow.” You don’t feel like you’re in control anymore, and you really need to step back. The Rolling Stones, a few times, were pretty burned a few times — it’s just from overwork. And that’s not particularly surprising at this point in anyone’s career, to be honest. And you just have to step back and take some months off and regroup.


    Free Press: Now that you’ve opened the tour — is there some aspect to being onstage that you sort of forget about when you’re away, that comes back and hits you as soon as you’re up there again?


    Jagger: I think, for me, you just have to tune yourself into the audience. There are certain points in the show where you sort of have to encourage them and get them more involved. Whether it’s call and response — you can’t forget that they want to do that.


    And some audiences just don’t want to respond, so there’s no point in keep banging them over the head. They’re just enjoying themselves doing what they’re doing. Last night (in Boston), the audience loved to shout and holler, so every time I went “Whoo whoo!” they’d go “Whooo” forever. So I thought, “OK, that’s what you want to do, so we’ll do it.” And you forget that kind of thing, that each audience is slightly different. There’s nothing more boring than watching some performer try to get the audience to clap and join in when they don’t really want to. You’ve been to shows like that, I’m sure — they really get on your nerves.


    But then some love it, and they can’t get enough of it. It’s those kind of audience feelings, to try and feel that out in a very wide open stadium like Fenway, that’s kind of tricky to get attuned to. But you adapt pretty quick.


    Contact BRIAN McCOLLUM at 313-223-4450 or mccollum@freepress.com.

    Copyright © 2005 Detroit Free Press Inc

  • The Geography of New Orleans



    New Orleans’ Location


    New Orleans' LocationThe City of New Orleans is located exactly at 90 degrees west longitude, and 30 degrees north latitude. Actually, the exact coordinate lies in the marshes of New Orleans East, just southwest of NASA’s Michoud Assembly Facility. The Vieux Carre’, the original city built by Bienville (also known as the French Quarter), presides over a huge 90 degree curve in the Mississippi River some 110 miles north of its confluence with the Gulf of Mexico. The city limits of New Orleans are co-terminous with the boundaries of Orleans Parish (outlined in yellow in the photo-map at left). However, as can be seen in the photo-map, the metropolitan area of the city has grown well beyond these boundaries. In just under three hundred years, New Orleans has grown from the one-square mile settlement founded by Bienville to cover parts of four parishes in southeastern Louisiana.


    New Orleans’ Geological History and Peculiarities

    At this location, New Orleans teeters on the edge of the continental shelf of North America. Geologically speaking, it wasn’t too long ago that the area now known as Louisiana was submerged under a huge embankment of the Gulf of Mexico. The Mississippi slowly, over a period of millions of years, began depositing silt along the ocean’s bottom, until eventually land began to break its waves. About 1 million years ago, the river had built up for itself a fragile delta extending out into the gulf. A battle between the river and the sea that was much like a tug-of-war ensued, and the river won, barely. As the layers upon layers of silt slowly pushed back the gulf’s waves, the river continued to build up the land in a huge fan-shaped delta extending from lower Illinois to Louisiana and Mississippi. A new layer of silt was deposited with each successive spring flood. Where once the Gulf jutted up into the heart of the North American continent, today the Mississippi juts out a hundred and fifty or so miles into the Gulf. However, due to the effects of man’s efforts, the Mississippi is doomed to lose this geological game of tug-of-war.


    The Mississippi River deposits more silt closer to its banks during the spring floods. For that reason, the land is higher closer to the river. As one moves away from the river’s edge, the land sinks to about 5 to 10 feet below sea level, maybe higher in some places. Because the river deposits more silt closer to its banks, the riverbed itself has been built up so much that the river’s surface is actually higher than the surrounding land. Only the natural levee along its banks is higher than the river’s surface, and the river is naturally prone to overflow this levee and inundate the low land around it. Because of this, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers has extended the height of this natural levee in an attempt to keep the river within its natural course. Tourists in Jackson Square delight in sitting on a bench and looking up at the river’s traffic. The river’s surface is several feet above sea level. Ships travelling down the Mississippi appear to hover over the city below.


    The Mississippi’s present riverbed at New Orleans is only about 1000 years old. Before that, the river flowed a few miles to the north through what is today Metairie, Mid City, and Gentilly. When the river retreated to its present course, it left behind a series of small bayous. These were called Metairie Bayou, Bayou St. John, and Gentilly Bayou by the early French explorers. Though Metairie and Gentilly Bayous have long since silted up and disappeared, the natural levee along the old river’s bed remained, creating a causeway through the murky swamp. Indians, and later Europeans, used this causeway as a portage through the swamp. The Indians built their villages upon it, and farmed its rich soil. The route of the causeway can still be seen on a map of the modern city, and is labeled “Metairie Road” and “Gentilly Boulevard”. The name Le Metairie, which is given to New Orleans’ western suburb, is French, meaning “The Little Farms”.


    Lake Pontchartrain and Lake Maurepas were created about 5000 years ago, at the end of the last Ice Age. As the polar ice cap retreated, the melted ice raised the sea level. The area that is now inundated by these two lakes was very low, perhaps as much as ten to twenty feet below the surrounding land. Like the rest of the land, swampy forests inhabited by alligators, water moccasins and swarms of mosquitoes covered the area. As the sea level rose, the Gulf of Mexico overflowed into this bowl of swampy land. Today, Lake Maurepas empties into Lake Pontchartrain through Pass Manchac, which in turn empties into the Gulf through a narrow and shallow channel called the Rigolets (Rig-a-lees).


    Man’s Interaction With The Land

    Boundaries of the Isle of Orleans When the French arrived at the end of the 17th century, they were greeted by this swampy land that they called Le Flottant (the Floating Land). Their description was not far from the truth. The land is naturally very wet, even spongy. A person must dig through twenty feet of land through a hole that would quickly drown him as it filled up with water before he reached what can be loosely termed “solid ground”. He’d have to dig another 80 feet before he reached bedrock consisting of compacted clay, and silty sand. For this reason all structures of any significance must be built on pilings hammered deep into the ground. Skyscrapers are a new feature to the city’s landscape, as these require pilings of thick concrete set more than a hundred feet into the ground. Such is the nature of a low-lying alluvial plain such as the Mississippi River delta. Surrounding this Floating Land on all sides is water, lots and lots of water. The French saw the land as an island, which they named the Isle d’Orleans (Isle of Orleans). The Isle d’Orleans soon became a political and regional entity with geographic boundaries. These boundaries (outlined in yellow on the photo-map at left) were identified by the French as the Mississippi River on the west and south, Lake Pontchartrain and Lake Maurepas on the north, Breton Sound (part of the Gulf of Mexico) on the east, and what the French named the Iberville River (that connected the Mississippi at Baton Rouge to Lakes Maurepas and Pontchartrain) to the northwest. This area is on the east bank of the Mississippi River. However, throughout Louisiana’s history – after the territory was divided along the river itself, and only that part of the original territory west of the river was known as Louisiana – the Isle of Orleans remained a part of the Lousiana Territory.


    Boundaries of the Isle of OrleansBeginning in the latter part of the 19th century, and continuing on into the 20th, New Orleanians began a concerted project to drain the Isle of Orleans of its shallow swamp. Dry land is a valuable commodity in southeast Louisiana. As the city of New Orleans grew, more of it was needed. All of the high land along the river’s bank had long since been claimed and developed, but more was needed. In order to reclaim the swamp, a series of canals and pumping stations were built. The pumping stations were able to drain hundreds of square miles of swampland, pumping the excess water into Lake Pontchartrain to the north of the city and into the swamps and bayous to the south, thus leaving behind a dry, yet still spongy prairie upon which the city could sprawl. As can be seen in the photo-map above, the system of canals drains the land farthest away from the River. These are the lowest areas within the city, lying below sea level and naturally covered by shallow marshes and swamps. No canals are needed to drain the land close to the river’s banks since the river has built up this land to an elevation a few feet or more above sea level. As water must flow down, the canals drain into the Lake and bayous surrounding the city instead of into the River itself, as one might expect. The few canals that do empty into the River are connected to it in order to allow barge traffic to pass through them.


    A False Environment?

    The area that has since been drained by the canal system includes most of the present metropolitan area of New Orleans, including almost all of Orleans Parish (except the most eastern portions of that parish), the northern half of Jefferson Parish to an area just south of the cities of Westwego and Gretna, the northeastern corner of St. Charles Parish, the western portion of St. Bernard Parish, and the northern tip of Plaquermines Parish. Today, the series of canals and pumping stations continue to keep the land dry. Throughout the rainy season (which is nearly 3/4 of the year), they pump massive quantities of water out of the area into Lake Pontchartrain. In spite of this, the wetness of Louisiana proves, from time to time, to be too much for the pumps, and floods occur. However, not since 1927 has New Orleans flooded because of the height of the Mississippi or the lake. Added to the pumps’ strength is the Bonnie Carre Spillway, built by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in St. Charles Parish. Through this spillway, floodwaters of the Mississippi can be diverted into Lake Pontchartrain, sparing the city of New Orleans from river floods. Most of the floods of the 20th century have been due to sustained periods of heavy rainfall and hurricanes. Yet, as beneficial as this system is to the city, inevitably it will spell New Orleans’ doom. The levee system that has been built along the river, coupled with the canal system to keep the interior of the city dry, prevent the land from being replenished by the annual spring floods. As a result, the land will continue to sink until eventually there will be nothing to stop the waters of the Gulf to rush back upon the fragile land. In addition, the fresh water that is pumped into the brackish wetlands surrounding the city is creating an ecological disaster. When the Bonnie Carre Spillway is used in order to spare the city of New Orleans from floods, the consequences to the coastal estuary system is profound. As a result, in order to save itself from the waters surrounding it, the city of New Orleans is slowly destroying its own environment. The final death knoll of the city may very well come from the river itself. Scientists and environmentalists know that the Mississippi is trying to change its course that will bypass the city in favor of the shorter route to the Gulf through the Atchafalaya basin. So far, the Corps of Engineers has prevented the river from doing this. But, one day, it will happen, perhaps following a direct hit from a hurricane. As late summer and early fall approach every year (hurricane season), New Orleans stands with the threat that it will lose its own lifeline. No canal system and no levee system will prevent the disaster that will follow.


    The photo-maps used on this page have been produced using images of the City of New Orleans taken aboard manned-space flights published by NASA.




    Click the Fleur d’lis to Return to SouthBear’s New Orleans Homepage



    © 1999 – 2003 by SouthBear


    Date of Last Revision: 27 April 2003

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  • Barry Feinstein/PBS

    Ballad of a Razor-Thin Man: Bob Dylan in 1966 in Aust, England, a tour on which he was often booed

    August 30, 2005
    The Contrarian of a Generation, Revisited
    By JON PARELES

    Has there ever been a rock star as contrary as Bob Dylan? When taken for a folk singer, interpreting traditional songs, he started to write his own. When taken for a topical songwriter who would dutifully put his music behind party-line messages, and praised as the spokesman for a generation, he became an ambiguous, visionary poet instead. And when taken for an acoustic-guitar troubadour who was supposed to cling to old, virtuous rural sounds, he plugged in his guitar, hired a band and sneered oracular electric blues.

    That’s the story told in two overlapping projects: the two-CD set “No Direction Home: The Soundtrack – The Bootleg Series Vol. 7″ (Columbia/Legacy), to be released today, and “No Direction Home,” a documentary directed by Martin Scorsese that will be released as two DVD’s on Sept. 20 and broadcast on the PBS series “American Masters” on Sept. 26 and 27. (Despite the soundtrack designation on the CD’s, versions of some songs differ between album and film.)

    The CD’s and the documentary both follow Mr. Dylan from his early years to his motorcycle accident in July 1966, and both focus on the two metamorphoses he made in the early 1960′s: from Midwestern guitar strummer to Greenwich Village folk idol, and then, far more contentiously, from folk singer to electric rocker.

    Neither the album nor the documentary significantly revises Mr. Dylan’s history. The backdrop as always is the turmoil of the 60′s. Here, once again, are the earnest, well-meaning and musically puritanical Greenwich Village folkies: in love with traditional songs and sounds, firmly believing that folk tunes and agitprop belong together, forever grappling with authenticity, and trying to be populist while disdaining pop music and pop culture. And there, again, is Mr. Dylan: repeatedly shedding his past, soaking up songs and styles, trading simple messages for oblique ones, pilfering and transforming.

    In the film, he rightly calls himself “a musical expeditionary.” Tony Glover, who recorded a young Mr. Dylan in Minnesota, is also right when he calls him “a sponge.” There’s ruthlessness in the way Mr. Dylan finds sources, uses them and moves on: the ruthlessness of an artist’s best instincts.

    The documentary uses extensive interviews with Mr. Dylan – speaking as straightforwardly and unguardedly as he ever has, with glints of humor – and with eyewitnesses from the era who don’t always agree. It also digs into the outtakes of the filmmakers who were on the scene for Mr. Dylan’s appearances at Newport Folk Festivals, solo and electric, and for his tours of Europe. In 1965, he was the guitar-strumming solo act (who had already recorded “Maggie’s Farm” and “Subterranean Homesick Blues”) documented as an arrogant young star in D. A. Pennebaker’s “Don’t Look Back,” vehemently insisting he was not a folk singer. In 1966, he returned to Europe backed by the Hawks (who would become the Band) and was widely booed.

    An arty, scattershot film, “Eat the Document,” was made of the 1966 tour, edited incoherently with Mr. Dylan’s participation and rejected by ABC television; it has been shown on rare occasions (and bootlegged) since 1972. But in the second half of “No Direction Home,” Mr. Scorsese draws on the 1966 footage to concentrate the tension and absurdity of a tour on which Mr. Dylan faced an overheated blend of love and hatred that no other performer could have sparked.

    It’s a period that Mr. Dylan skips completely in his 2004 memoir, “Chronicles: Volume One,” and the one that yielded, in a whirlwind of recording and touring, his three most crucial albums: “Bringing It All Back Home,” “Highway 61 Revisited” and “Blonde on Blonde.” Mr. Scorsese’s documentary follows Dylan as a performer, meeting audiences (and dumbfounding journalists) with misunderstood greatness. The album moves inside the studio, with nine outtakes of classic songs alongside three live versions. (Mr. Dylan and the Hawks’ fire-breathing 1966 performance from Manchester Town Hall was released as part of the Bootleg Series in 1998.)

    There’s some additional evidence that Mr. Dylan was always, for lack of a better word, an impurist. The album includes his earliest known recording: “When I Got Troubles” from 1959, with the 17-year-old Bobby Zimmerman and his guitar captured by a high-school friend’s tape recorder. The song is a blues that advises, “swing your troubles away,” but its folky verse leads to a stop-time section straight out of Elvis Presley. In the documentary, a glimpse of a yearbook shows his stated ambition: to join Little Richard.

    Then he was swayed by the stark strangeness of folk songs, the poetry of the Beats and the plain-spoken conviction of Woody Guthrie, and he hitchhiked to New York City. In Greenwich Village, he was a quick study and, at first, everybody’s protégé: Guthrie, Pete Seeger, Odetta, Dave Van Ronk, Joan Baez. The first CD, with alternate and live versions from Mr. Dylan’s folky years, is full of songs about moving on: “Rambler, Gambler,” “I Was Young When I Left Home” and his own “Don’t Think Twice, It’s All Right” (a demo version, already perfected, recorded for the song’s publisher). From the folk singers’ trove of songs, “This Land Is Your Land” is treated as a traveler’s reflections rather than a singalong, and he growls “Dink’s Song” (collected half a century earlier by the folklorist John A. Lomax) as if the narrator’s heartbreak were his own. Compared to some of the outlandishly overwrought folk-revival performers shown in the documentary, he comes across as natural, even artless.

    Then, suddenly, he doesn’t need mentors. “What I did to break away was to take simple folk changes and put new imagery and attitude to them, use catchphrases and metaphor combined with a new set of ordinances that evolved into something different that had not been heard before,” he wrote in “Chronicles.”

    On the album, the finger pointing and moralizing of “Blowin’ in the Wind” and “Masters of War,” sung with quiet righteousness in performances at Town Hall in Manhattan, give way to the cascading images of “A Hard Rain’s A-Gonna Fall” and “Chimes of Freedom.” Mr. Dylan was already confounding expectations: The documentary shows him at a “topical song workshop” at the Newport Folk Festival performing “Mr. Tambourine Man,” while some audience members appear to wonder exactly what topic the song is supposed to be protesting. In other clips, Mr. Dylan tells interviewers he’s not a topical songwriter anyway. Accepting a civil liberties award in 1963, he called politics “trivial.”

    There were no confrontations as long as he played acoustic guitar. But in the famous 1965 Newport Folk Festival performance, he brought the Paul Butterfield Blues Band onstage with him and caused pandemonium. The folkies interviewed in the documentary still don’t know what hit them; they complain that they couldn’t understand the words, or it was just way too loud, or it was distorted, and they recall that Pete Seeger may or may not have tried to take a hatchet to the sound cable. (He says he didn’t.)

    Mr. Dylan must have foreseen it all: the song he chose was “Maggie’s Farm”: “I try my best to be just like I am/But everybody wants you to be just like them.” That performance is on the album, in a soundboard mix that polishes every barb in the music and, without audience noise, probably sounds clearer than anyone could have heard it at the time.

    The album’s studio outtakes from “Bringing It All Back Home,” “Highway 61 Revisited” and “Blonde on Blonde” are good, with the band already primed and Mr. Dylan still toying with lyrics. Good but not great: It’s fascinating to hear him approaching what he wants. The final takes are better, though the alternate version of “She Belongs to Me” – gentler and more affectionate – comes close.

    The takes on the original albums had more layers of irony and emotion and, especially, comedy; they also added roll to the music’s rock. “It Takes a Lot to Laugh, It Takes a Train to Cry” would change from an upbeat blues (on “No Direction Home”) to a droll, knowing shuffle (on “Highway 61 Revisited”). “Stuck Inside of Mobile with the Memphis Blues Again” is sturdy, presaging Band songs like “The Weight”; it would perk up with a sly lilt.

    “Desolation Row” would take on more gravity and bitterness; on “Tombstone Blues” the alternate tried a countryish harmony vocal. “Visions of Johanna” would get a simpler beat that opened up room for vocal nuance, while “Leopard-Skin Pill-Box Hat” would speed up and turn into a romp. “Highway 61 Revisited” already had its electric-piano flourishes, but the final take would add the hysterical edge of a siren whistle.

    The film shows what happened to the songs and the songwriter on the road. Between 1965 and 1966, Mr. Dylan’s last baby fat disappeared. Partly because of amphetamines that the documentary doesn’t mention, he was razor-thin, and with his wildly patterned Mod clothes and an exploding hairdo, he looked purely iconic, haloed from backlighting. The 1966 tour, as Mr. Scorsese reconstructs it, was a blur of pop-star adulation, polarized crowds and inane news conferences: “All my songs are protest songs, every single one of them,” Mr. Dylan bantered.

    One musician recalls that audiences would singalong with Mr. Dylan’s hit single, “Like a Rolling Stone,” and then go back to booing his other electric songs. Offstage, Mr. Dylan sarcastically says, “Don’t boo me any more; I can’t stand it!” and then wonders, “Kids, how can they buy the tickets so fast?”

    The boos didn’t stop him, though he grew visibly drained. On the album, Mr. Dylan and the Hawks – whose little fills between vocal lines are as savagely funny as the lyrics – give corrosive performances of “Ballad of a Thin Man” and the climactic, scathing “Like a Rolling Stone” that followed a fan’s cry of “Judas!” (This was also on a previous Bootleg Series album.)

    Unlike the vast majority of entertainers, Mr. Dylan wasn’t devoted to pleasing an audience. He didn’t give them what they wanted: He gave them something better. It would all catch up with him, and quickly, and when the motorcycle accident gave him a reason to withdraw he seized it. But “No Direction Home” stops there. Contrary as Mr. Dylan was, in those brief and remarkable years, negativity pulled him through.

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