March 25, 2006

















  • Meals That Moms Can Almost Call Their Own




    Nicole Bengiveno/The New York Times

    Jeannette Balantic, center, and Madeline Craig, of Floral Park, on Long Island, put together enchiladas at Super Suppers in Bethpage, N.Y.

    March 26, 2006
    Meals That Moms Can Almost Call Their Own
    By KIM SEVERSON and JULIA MOSKIN

    SEATTLE — Jodi Robbins and her family were on a grim dinnertime merry-go-round.

    Takeout pizza was a mainstay, except on the nights when Chinese food seemed more appealing. When Ms. Robbins cooked, it was spaghetti or tuna casserole over and over, with rarely enough time to make a salad.

    Their routine was expensive, fattening and boring. In the rush to get through the day, the family had lost control of the dinner table.

    So Ms. Robbins now goes to Dream Dinners in West Seattle, where she spends just under two hours assembling dishes like cheesy chicken casserole and Salisbury steak from ingredients that have been peeled and chopped for her. She does not have to pick up a knife, turn on a stove or wash a dish.

    All she has to do is pop the meals in her oven and, for about $3.50 a serving, experience the satisfaction of putting a home-cooked meal — of a sort — on the table.

    Americans, pinched for time and increasingly uncomfortable in their kitchens, have been on a 50-year slide away from home cooking. Now, at almost 700 meal assembly centers around the country, families like the Robbinses prepare two weeks’ worth of dinners they can call their own with little more effort than it takes to buy a rotisserie chicken and a bag of salad.

    The centers are opening at a rate of about 40 a month, mostly in strip malls and office parks in the nation’s suburbs and smaller cities, and are projected to earn $270 million this year, according to the Easy Meal Prep Association, the industry’s trade group.

    “It’s been keeping us from ordering pizza all the time,” Ms. Robbins said. “And you still feel like you’re cooking.”

    The prototype, a kind of elevated cooking session among friends in a commercial kitchen, popped up in the Northwest in 1999. The concept did not take off until 2002, when two Seattle-area women streamlined the process so customers could make 12 dinners for six in two hours for under $200. That company became Dream Dinners, which opened a year later and now has 112 franchise stores, with 64 under construction.

    Super Suppers, which opened a year later in Fort Worth, is the largest chain, with 121 franchise stores and 77 more under construction. For people with few cooking skills, the centers keep things simple with a rotating menu of mostly stews and casseroles designed to be assembled in freezer bags or aluminum trays, then taken home to be baked or simmered in a single pot.

    Customers select their dishes online ahead of time. When they show up, they follow recipes that hang over restaurant-style work stations filled with ingredients like frozen chicken breasts, chopped onions and jars of seasonings.

    Cheerful workers hover around, carting off measuring spoons as soon as they are dirty and pouring fresh coffee. They encourage the calorie conscious or sodium sensitive to customize meals. And if someone hates broccoli, it can be left out. For people who feel guilty about not cooking for their families, the centers offer absolution in just a couple of hours.

    Lisa Johnson, who lives in a suburb of Raleigh, N.C., especially hates shopping and cleanup. But she is determined to keep the family together at the table, at least occasionally. She became a meal assembly convert after just one visit.

    “We’re always hearing that eating dinner together is the cure for obesity, learning disorders, drugs, divorce and every kind of problem we have in society,” she said. “But what no one tells you is how to do all that cooking.”

    Although women still do 80 percent of the food-related work at home, the amount of time Americans spend cooking dinner has declined to about 30 minutes from about two and a half hours since the 1960′s, according to market research by Mintel International and the NPD Group. At the same time, the country is showing signs of restaurant fatigue. Spending in restaurants, which had been growing steadily since World War II, has been flat since 2001.

    Meal assembly centers are not necessarily a return to the home-cooked food generations grew up eating. For one thing, no one actually cooks at them. The chopped vegetables and frozen meats at most of the centers come from industrial food suppliers like Sysco, and recipes include ingredients like canned wax beans and that old hot dish standby, cream of chicken soup. Nothing is actually cooked on site, although workers in the back room might chop scallions or slice raw beef into serving sizes.

    But it may be a start.

    “With every generation, fewer and fewer girls — and boys — are growing up hanging around the kitchen,” said Laura Shapiro, who writes about modern cooking in America. “But the incredible popularity of cooking shows on TV shows that people are hungry to cook, hungry to be in the kitchen.”

    Even an “assembled” family meal will always be more meaningful than takeout because of the physical connection between the cook, the food and the family, said Bradd Shore, director of the Emory Center on Myth and Ritual in American Life.

    “When a mother says, ‘Do you like my lasagna?’ that is much more loaded than ‘Do you like the lasagna?’ ” Dr. Shore said. “The fact that she made it with her hands is powerful.”

    Mayra Didomenico, a mother of two and a pharmacist, just wants to save time and money.

    “Every week I go to the supermarket and spend $200 and I still have to cook it,” she said as she filled bags with frozen marmalade-glazed pork chops at a new Super Suppers store in Bethpage, N.Y.

    So why not just buy frozen food? “At least here I am seeing the ingredients,” she said.

    In addition to dinner, the centers offer a kind of canned camaraderie.

    “People are looking for a communal feeling, whether it’s around a table eating together or in a storefront measuring food into little bags with their friends,” said Marc Halperin, director of the Center for Culinary Development in San Francisco, which develops products for clients like Kellogg’s and Starbucks.

    Meal assembly centers often encourage customers to attend with friends, drink wine while they “cook” and even dance, as a set of couples did on a recent night at Super Suppers in Bethpage.

    “They turned off the music, pulled out a big-screen TV and we all watched ‘American Idol,’ ” said Evan Glass, a construction company executive.

    Stephanie Allen, who helped found Dream Dinners in the Seattle area in 2002, says her customers first come in with friends, but after two or three visits return alone. “They want to get in and get out and get their dinners done,” Ms. Allen said. “They can say, this is something I made, I can have my in-laws over to dinner, and I won’t get a hard time from them.”

    As long as the in-laws are not food critics. Some of the nation’s most experienced cooking professionals who attended a food panel recently at New York University had never heard of meal preparation centers. Once it was explained, they expressed disdain.

    “People basically don’t want to cook but they don’t want to be told they are not cooking,” said Madhur Jaffrey, the Indian cookbook author and actor. “It’s an illusion.”

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    Parents Age, Baby Boomers and Business Struggle to Cope




    C.J. Gunther for The New York Times

    Edith Tusubira, right, a nurse, helped Bernice Goodman at the home of Ms. Goodman’s daughter Nancy in West Roxbury, Mass. Nancy Goodman’s company offers care benefits, but she says they are nearly useless.


    March 25, 2006


    As Parents Age, Baby Boomers and Business Struggle to Cope




    Nancy Goodman’s employer, a telecommunications company in Boston, offers benefits to help employees care for elderly parents. But she found them nearly useless during four years of caring for her mother, who has Parkinson’s disease, and her father, who died of kidney failure last year.


    “They say they want to do the right thing,” Ms. Goodman, 58, said of her employer, which she would not identify for fear of losing her job. “But when it comes down to it, they’re not seeing the true picture.”


    Ms. Goodman’s lament is common, as corporate America scrambles to help the soaring number of baby boomers, mostly working women, whose obligation to frail, elderly parents results in absenteeism, workday distractions or stress-related health problems.


    Companies are responding, but experts say they often use child care benefits as a model when they do not suit the different and unpredictable needs of the elderly. In addition, at a time of cutbacks in expensive health insurance and pensions, the most commonly offered benefits are those that cost a company little or nothing, like referral services and unpaid leaves.


    Ms. Goodman, for instance, tried her company’s referral service to supplement inadequate staffing when her parents lived at an assisted living center in Connecticut. It was “like going to the yellow pages,” she said, since it did not relieve her of the time-consuming tasks of arranging for and supervising the services from afar. Ms. Goodman was also entitled to a year’s leave of absence, a benefit a new mother might appreciate. But if she took a leave now, what happened if her mother lingered?


    Employees with ailing parents, more than 20 million nationwide, cite other benefits that would allow them to focus more on their jobs, like geriatric case managers to guide them through the mysteries of Medicaid and Medicare, or backup care for emergencies like a last-minute business trip. Companies that offer this kind of hands-on assistance generally pay for at least part of the service.


    But they are rare. According to the Society for Human Resource Management, which represents more than 200,000 human resource and other corporate officials, 39 percent of its members said in 2003 that elder care benefits were “too costly to be feasible.” Only 1 percent of their companies subsidized any elder care benefits last year. And only 3 percent offered the emergency backup care — subsidized or otherwise — that experts say saves money by keeping workers at work.


    “The perception among companies is that they can’t afford elder care benefits,” said Frank Scanlan, a spokesman for the society.


    It is the largest companies that are the most generous, but even those often subscribe to the mistaken notion that the Mommy Track and the Daughter Track are the same, said Chris Gatti, president of the Work Options Group in Superior, Colo. Work Options, whose clients employ 400,000 people nationwide, provides in-home care for children and the elderly.


    “These benefits fall under the same umbrella but are fundamentally different,” Mr. Gatti said. “Child care programs are relatively straight-forward and easy to administer compared to elder care, which is a maze with lots of sharp corners and dark secluded places.”


    An individual supervisor can ease an employee’s burden but still leave them vulnerable to management changes. Just 6 percent of employers have written policies about elder care, according to surveys by the Society for Human Resource Management, while 76 percent say they help employees on a case-by-case basis.


    For Ms. Goodman, the one godsend since her father died and her mother moved into her Boston apartment has been permission to work at home. But that is likely to change with a new boss. “I’m walking on eggs right now,” Ms. Goodman said.


    The distinctions between child care and elder care have become apparent as the first of the 77 million baby boomers turn 60 and their parents live past 85, joining the fastest-growing segment of the population.


    The most obvious is that children’s schedules are predictable — a school holiday next Monday — while elderly parents’ needs — a trip to the emergency room — are crisis-driven. Also, children are raised at home; an elderly parent often lives far away.


    Guiding the decisions of an elderly parent also requires mastery of arcane legal, financial and medical matters.


    “It’s a new and very confusing skill set,” said Maureen Corcoran, a vice president at Prudential Financial. “You don’t just give people a list; you lead them there. Otherwise they spend hours upon hours figuring it out themselves.”


    For both employees and employers, the costs of elder care are enormous, according to studies by the MetLife Mature Market Institute, which is in the midst of updated analysis to reflect rapidly changing demographics.


    The price tag for employers in 1997 ranged from $11.5 billion to $29 billion a year. Most expensive were the replacement of lost workers (at least $4.9 billion a year), workday interruptions ($3.7 billion) and absenteeism ($885 million). The employees lose salary, Social Security and pension benefits as a result of refusing promotions, switching to part-time work or retiring early.


    Certain benefits mitigate these costs, and certain companies have learned there is a clear return on investment. At Prudential, for instance, subsidized emergency backup care prevents absenteeism and workday interruptions. Prudential’s 21,000 employees, with one phone call to Work Options Group, can get help for parents by the next morning, for a co-payment of $4 an hour.


    A $20-an-hour aide, on an eight-hour shift, would otherwise cost a Prudential employee $160, rather than $32. Yet the company says it will save $650,000 during a three-year contract with Work Options, Ms. Corcoran said, because “if our employees needs are taken care of, they can focus on work.”


    Diane Yankencheck, a Prudential employee in Newark, said the service kept her working during a crisis. Her father has a degenerative neurological disease and round-the-clock care. Her mother manages the household, or did until she broke her wrist. Now an aide from Work Options cooks, cleans and helps her bathe and dress.


    Kent Burtis, a Verizon technician in Bayville, N.J., uses similar backup care for his father, who is paralyzed and incontinent. For a while, Mr. Burtis spent hours before work feeding, diapering and dressing him. Now an aide does the morning shift. “It’s kept me from slitting my throat,” Mr. Burtis said.


    Elder care benefits most often seem a luxury at small companies and nonprofits. So even at AARP, dedicated to the needs of older Americans, Deborah Russell, the director of work force issues, was daunted by coordinating long-distance care for her mother and then missing weeks of work to be at her bedside when death neared.


    Ms. Russell and her two sisters, grateful for AARP’s excellent referral service, still spent “an inordinate amount of time on the telephone” during working hours, distracted and unproductive. As their mother’s condition deteriorated, and the siblings rotated weeks in Florida, Ms. Russell used paid vacation time rather than the 12 weeks of unpaid leave guaranteed by the federal Family Medical Leave Act or AARP’s more generous 16-week program, also unpaid.


    Another benefit assumed to be useful is the flexible spending account, governed by the Internal Revenue Service and widely offered by companies. It permits the use of pretax dollars for dependent care, as long as the dependent meets the I.R.S. definition. Virtually all children do, but most aged parents do not. That means tax breaks for baby sitters but not companions for the elderly.


    Experts disagree about whether women will push employers for help with their parents, as they did 30 years ago when child care was their pressing issue.


    Ellen Galinsky, 63, president of the Family and Work Institute, led the charge for a day care center at Bank Street College when she was a researcher there in 1969. After “huge resistance,” the center opened in 1974. Ms. Galinsky predicts a similar awakening to elder care issues because “demographics are destiny.”


    “Everyone I know is dealing with this,” said Ms. Galinsky, who recently stayed at the bedside of her 98-year-old mother for the last two months of her life. The institute allows unlimited sick leave for such family emergencies. But even with that leeway, Ms. Galinsky said: “I was on another planet. It’s like no other experience. I barely have words for how hard it is.”


    Todd Groves, founder of LTC Financial Partners in Seattle, who advises human resource managers on long term care, is not convinced that women like Ms. Galinsky will have the same galvanizing effect this time around, regardless of their numbers or their passion.


    “Back then you still had a paternal business culture,” Mr. Groves said. “Now people feel out on their own. They are fearful about their careers and don’t feel they can ask for help.”








     







    The Bounty of Rome




    Chris Warde-Jones for The New York Times

    At Osteria dell’Angelo: a puntarelle salad, tripe and tonnarelli cacio e pepe, a typical Roman pasta with cheese and pepper.


    March 26, 2006


    The Bounty of Rome




    HOW does Rome taste? An odd question perhaps, but the sort that comes to mind when I read travel accounts that define cities by sights and sounds, colors and tempo. What about the flavor, I wonder, meaning that more literally than figuratively.


    Say Rome to me and my first thoughts are not of the swirling traffic around the marble wedding cake that is a monument to Vittorio Emanuele II, nor of the eaten-out stone melon that is the Colosseum, nor of the “Dolce Vita” set as immortalized by Fellini. Rather, I think first of the creamy foam, or spuma, that tops lightly sugared espresso at the always jammed Sant’Eustachio around the corner from the Pantheon, the coffee bar that I still consider this city’s best.


    Next, thoughts turn to Rome’s own big, round globe artichokes available from late February to mid-April and most succulent simmered in olive oil with mint and parsley alla Romana or as carciofi alla giudea flattened and fried to resemble dried sunflowers and one of the many Jewish culinary inheritances from the city’s Ghetto preparations that do almost as well by other artichoke varieties in other seasons.


    Among Roman pastas, I remember favorites such as the guanciale-and-egg-decked carbonara, cacio e pepe with its cheese and pepper sting, the mellow tomato-and-onion-sauced amatriciana and the unusual, delectable pajata (pronounced pie-YAH-tah), pasta tossed with chopped intestines of newly born lambs that still hold remains of milk, resulting in a creamy, meaty tomato sauce. And gnocchi alla Romana, unlike others in Italy, are rounds of semolina baked under a golden glaze of butter and cheese, an elegant variation.


    These lusty eaters enjoy their meats close to the bone, gnawing through roasted abbacchio lamb, suckling pig or braised oxtails. They dote on innards like tomato-simmered tripe and tantalizingly chewy coratella, a savory hash of mixed lamb organs. Suffusing all are the seasonings that define the Roman kitchen: the air-cured pig’s jowl bacon called guanciale; salt-etched anchovies; garlic; fiery, red peperoncino chilies; black pepper; the pungent sheep’s milk cheese pecorino; and rosemary, sage, parsley and minty mentuccia.


    Trying for a genuine sense of place ever more elusive in these days of global homogenization I seek out restaurants featuring traditional dishes and am therefore as unlikely to order artichokes alla Romana in Kiev as to try chicken Kiev in Rome. But it is in markets and shops that I discover most about local food and manners, scouting regional products to look for on menus. Even more intriguing is the tense interaction of vendors and buyers bustling through daily routines, exhibiting manners and mores, trusting or not, bargaining or not, according to local custom.


    For enticing displays of both food and folkways, there is no better market in Rome than the Campo dei Fiori right in the heart of the city. A veritable stage set of an antique marketplace, facing the 16th-century Palazzo Farnese and bordered by romantically faded buildings, cafes and restaurants, it comes to life every morning (except Sunday) until 1:30 p.m. The site of public executions during the Renaissance, it is now dedicated to far more felicitous pursuits.


    Vegetable and fruit stalls are gardens of temptations, the heavenly artichokes still on long, leafy stems, and in season there is the particularly Roman puntarelle, a tangy salad green with long, jagged leaves, and the tiny sweet strawberries fragoline di Nemi that grow wild in the Castelli hills of Lazio, Rome’s province. Usually there is broccolo Romano, a spring green cross between cauliflower and broccoli in pyramid-shaped heads formed of tiny shell-like nodules.


    Last fall, I learned more about it in the home kitchen of Paola di Mauro, the culinary doyenne of a wine-producing restaurant family. She has informed the work of many Italian-American chefs including Mario Batali. Among other bracing Roman dishes, she prepared a lovely soup of that broccoli, based on a soffrito, a sauted, minced blend of guanciale, garlic and parsley, and served it with thread-thin vermicelli and grated pecorino.


    Fresh mushrooms prevail at some stands in the Campo dei Fiori, while the ancient-looking dried versions are in stock at others. At least six sizes and shapes of zucchini, crimson tomatoes and peppers, garlands of garlic and giant bouquets of parsley and rosemary take center stage, while around the edges open shop stands offer flowers, meats, poultry, cheeses and breads, all noisily hawked by vendors to every passer-by. Each time I return to this market, I am most surprised by the aromas. As beautiful as New York’s Greenmarkets are, rarely do apples, pears, grapes, strawberries and, I swear, artichokes exude the perfumes of those at this Roman treasure.


    Similar charms abound in the less expensive, more rustic open market in Testaccio, an old district that is a place of sylvan parks and tree-shaded residential streets, but once the center for slaughterhouses and still known as the quinto quarto, or fifth quarter, referring to the innards and trimmings butchers kept for themselves. There one finds the piled-up enticements at Volpetti, a salumeria where, among the luxurious delicatessen, cheeses and candies, I first sampled corallina. It is Rome’s prized fresh salami of spicy, lean pork and lard, once relegated to Easter but now available year round, thanks to refrigeration.


    Romans claim two special breads the round rosetta with a top pattern suggesting an open rose, and the crusty, oblong pane di Genzano, which comes from a town in Lazio on the slopes of a volcanic crater.


    At the sparkling bread bakery and casual food shop that is Compagnia del Pane, the delicious rosetta is baked, as is a house version of the Genzano. That and other breads are the base for many sandwiches that are eaten in or taken out, along with salads, a few hot dishes and pastries including one of the best cornetti (Italian for croissant) I had in the city sheer delight with the very hot and frothy cappuccino. About 10 or 15 minutes’ walk from St. Peter’s, this is just right for a restorative, inexpensive lunch.


    Food is the lure, but obviously not the only reward. Typically, during a weeklong visit to Rome last fall, such quests took me and my husband, Richard Falcone, to parts of the city that we might not otherwise have visited, affording glimpses of different neighborhoods with brief stops for travel poster sights en route. Finally, because authentic Roman fare is served at all levels from the least expensive, casual trattorias like the beguiling, young-spirited Augusto in the winding walker’s paradise that is Trastevere to the stylishly urbane and clubby Al Moro, around the corner from the Trevi fountain one can see a range of social and economic differences in service, dress and tone, as well as humble to haute renditions of traditional specialties.


    Since my first visit to Rome in 1953, I have begun restaurant rounds at Al Moro, a smartly compact, sophisticated spot displaying portraits of celebrity habitus like Federico Fellini and other denizens of Cinecitt and the literary world. Despite the coolly detached management attitude that Italians describe as strafottente, and the attempt to relegate foreigners to a separate room unless they specifically ask not to be, I am instantly disarmed by the temptations presented at the entrance. In season they might include fresh porcini, the egg-shaped white ovoli funghi, white truffles from Alba, cheeses, corallina and always prosciutto with its earthy, burnished flavor.


    Oddly, waiters are friendly and accommodating, suggesting the perfect artichokes alla Romana followed by thick bucatini strands in a refined amatriciana sauce (named for Amatrice, the Lazio town of origin) with bits of guanciale, onion and tomato. Or it might be spaghetti Al Moro we recognize it as carbonara which according to house legend was created here after World War II to please American G.I.’s who ordered spaghetti, bacon and eggs. More likely, it originated in the Apennines where lumbermen cooked this simple pasta over fires of wood charcoal carbona. Consistently, Moro has also had the best spaghetti with clam sauce in the city, made with the tiny, greenish veraci clams that Romans adore, and sometimes at lunch, a coarse, garlicky cotechino sausage nested on broccoli sauted with garlic and olive oil.


    Main course winners on my last visit were the Roman roasted lamb, abbacchio with rosemary-accented potatoes, fork-tender oxtail in an airy tomato sauce, and butter-gilded sauted sweetbreads with mushrooms. Fortunately we had just enough room for what must be the world’s most scrumptious bab, the rum-soaked yeast bun, here doused with satiny zabaglione.


    If Al Moro reflects exclusivity, Il Matriciano practically announces inclusiveness. Close to the Vatican Museum, this is a series of modern, bright and convivial dining rooms, suggesting a big American steakhouse. About 20 to 30 percent lower in price than at Al Moro, most of the same specialties are served with dash and vigor. A house antipasto includes varieties of perfect prosciutto, cheese and tiny fried croquettes of artichokes, meatballs and the like. The Roman stracciatella soup, chicken broth frothed with beaten eggs, was light and lovely, and the thin, fresh egg noodles, tagliolini, were done alla gricia, sparely adorned only with guanciale and cheese, minus the eggs of carbonara. Amatriciana had meatier overtones than at Moro and was well matched with short thick tubes of rigatoni.


    Fried lamb’s brains with zucchini could not have been more crisp or golden, nor could the big, rustic chunks of oxtail have been improved upon. Although a chocolate pie proved disappointing, it was redeemed by the irresistible millefoglie, a flaky Napoleon layered with custardy whipped cream.


    Still descending in price, if neither in charm nor deliciousness, is Matricianella, a homey trattoria with outdoor tables on a narrow cobblestoned shopping street between the Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina and Fontanella Borghese. As pleasant as sidewalk dining can be, serious feeders seem to favor the indoors. In or out, Matricianella provided the very best fried artichoke alla giudea of my visit, with just the right crackle to the outer leaves and the typical velvety softness of the heart. The same can be said for the blessedly hot carbonara with its eggs, cheese, nuggets of guanciale and needlings of black pepper. Rich tomato sauces enlivened silky tripe and, for another main course, Rome’s beloved salted codfish, baccal.


    About 20 years ago I happened into Osteria dell’Angelo, then a tiny slice of a place in a quiet residential district, not far from the Vatican Museum, only to return whenever I am in Rome. Owned by the congenial Angelo Croce, a retired celebrated racecar driver, it grew into a much larger space still decked with photographs of many sports stars who have visited. Brown-paper-topped tables and a handsome stone floor retain the feeling of the tiny adjacent original, and the strictly Roman fare is listed in local dialect. Thus, the second courses appear on the menu as seconni instead of secondi, and sweets are dorci, not dolci, and nun instead of non means no.


    Just as authentic are the no-frills versions of spaghetti or penne alla pajata, the innards still fresh enough to have the milk that tastes like a piquant ricotta. All the Roman pastas are generously served, if not all of them are served every day, and it would be wise to check the schedule for minestra di broccoli e arzilla, a soup of Roman broccoli in a broth of skate (arzilla) and piquant hot peppers.


    Tripe, baccal, rabbit roasted with white wine and olives, and an anchovy tart are among weekly headliners. I’ve never made it to dessert but welcome a few cute biscotti to accompany a final espresso. The house features the wines of the Lazio in carafes adequate for two at lunch at 3.50 euros (about $4.25 at $1.22 to the euro).


    On mild Roman afternoon and evenings, the young and the casual gather at the trestle tables set on a tiny, antique piazzetta in Trastevere, there to feast on the savory casalinga dishes of Augusto. Inside two cozy, white rooms hung with movie memorabilia, neighbors gather to chat and feed children. Daily menus change, but you could do no better than to catch the well-soaked and snowy baccal with tomatoes, olive oil and garlic, the tender pollo alla Romana chunks of chicken braised with tomatoes and rosemary any of the typical pastas and a sprightly salad of the bittersweet puntarelle or greens like chicory (cicoria) sweated with garlic in sunny Lazio olive oil.


    Dispensing satisfying if not brilliant local fare to the solid bourgeois residents and market men of Testaccio since 1911, Perilli is a modestly priced period piece with white tablecloths, wine bottles and antipasto on display and romantic murals of antique Roman scenes. With old-time formality, waiters present appetizers like steamed, meat-filled zucchini and then rigatoni in a tomato and oxtail meat sauce, and for main courses, pork roasted with potatoes or tender grilled sweetbreads. The little veal roll-ups, involtini, were dry and bland, but there is more than enough here to allow one to enjoy Perilli’s old-time appeal.


    Three other restaurants invariably mentioned when one asks for sources of Roman specialties are worth noting, because they proved to be a mixed bag.


    The most frequently named is Checchino dal 1887, a 119-year old landmark in Testaccio. Offering a fully Roman menu, this tourist-conscious establishment makes it easy for the curious but cautious to try unknown fare. However, in at least four visits, including one in November, I have found dishes such as coratella, oxtails and involtini veal rolls, as well as classic Roman pastas, to be authentic, if less than sparklingly fresh or inspired. Thorough disasters included overcooked, mushy artichokes; gray, tough veal tongue in an oily green sauce; and all desserts including very tired cheeses. Service swings from helpful to borderline brusque toward non-Italians.


    A spectacular artichoke dish is the only reason to visit Evangelista, an old-timer done up as a smartly modern bote. Most of the food we tried was lackluster, but the amazing house specialty, carciofi al mattone, makes this a must stop for aficionados of that thistle. Appearing as a bronze, crepelike disk, this riff on the artichoke alla giudea is made by frying the fully opened artichoke under a weight traditionally a brick, or mattone so that it emerges crackling crisp outside, yet meltingly tender within. That, plus a pasta like pappardelle with porcini and a glass of wine would make a satisfying lunch before a walk through the nearby Ghetto or along the Tiber.


    Sora Lella is the sort of trattoria I would love to love, a charming old house on the Isola Tiberina, an island between Trastevere and the Ghetto that is also home to a centuries-old hospital and two churches. Despite the trattoria’s views of the Tiber and its thoroughly Roman menu, every dish seemed stalely reheated and bland. Too bad, because it was the only place that featured the centuries-old recipe for cinghiale agrodolce wild boar in a bittersweet sauce. The pork substituted for the boar would have been acceptable had it not been gray and dry and the sauce achingly sweet.


    As much as possible we tried to sample the wines of Lazio, and found they had come a long way since the days when they were noted only for the whites of Frascati and Montefiascone. We had a pretrip sampling in New York last fall during a Roman food and wine week held at several restaurants like San Domenico and Union Square Cafe where, as red wine devotees, we favored the clear and sprightly I Quattro Mori from Castel de Paolis 2001 and the richer, more complex Racemo rosso l’Olivella 2000.


    At Il Matriciano we found a robustly fruity, garnet-colored shiraz from Casale del Giglio for about $26. That same producer also accounted for the best white we tried, a fresh but mellow-edged Satrico chardonnay from Frascati. The tasting in New York was organized by Ian D’Agata, director of the International Wine Academy of Roma, a stunning multistoried installation in a 19th-century town palace beside the Spanish Steps. There one can have tastings of Lazio wines, among others, giving good reason to raise the Italian toast “A cent’anni” “To a hundred years” most suitable in this ancient city.


    Soup to Biscotti


    The country-city code is 39-06.


    MARKETS AND SHOPS


    Campo dei Fiori, Piazza Campo dei Fiori. Morning market until 1:30 p.m. every day except Sunday.


    Compagnia del Pane, Via Fabio Massimo, 87a-89, 324-1605.


    Gastronomia Volpetti, Via Marmorata, 47, Testaccio, 574-2352; www.volpetti.com.


    ESPRESSO AND WINE BARS


    Il Palazzetto, International Wine Academy of Rome, Vicolo del Bottino, 8, 699-0878; online at www.wineacademyroma.com.


    Sant’Eustachio, Piazza Sant’Eustachio, 82, 688-02048.


    RESTAURANTS


    Prices include lunch or dinner with tip (service) but without wine.


    Osteria dell’Angelo, Via G. Bettolo, 24, 372-9470. Lunch for two, about 40 euros, or $49 at $1.22 to the euro.


    Augusto, Piazza de Renzi, 15, Trastevere, 80-3798. Lunch for two, about 28 euros.


    Checchino dal 1887, Via Monte Testaccio, 30, 574-3816. Dinner for two, 90 euros.


    Evangelista, Via della Zoccolette, 11/A, 687-5810. Dinner, 90 euros.


    Matricianella, Via del Leone 2-4, 687-2100. Lunch, 70 euros.


    Il Matriciano, Via dei Gracchi, 55, 321-3040. Dinner, 80 euros.


    Al Moro, Vicolo delle Bollette, 13, 678-3495. Dinner, 100 euros.


    Perilli a Testaccio, Via Marmorata, 39, 574-2415. Lunch, 70 euros.


    MIMI SHERATON, a former food critic for The Times, is author, most recently, of “Eating My Words, An Appetite for Life” (William Morrow, 2004).









     







    The Face of Atrocity in Baghdad




    Max Becherer/Polaris, for The New York Times

    Mohannad al-Azawi, 27, center, a Sunni, was dragged from his pet shop on March 12. His mutilated body, background, was found the next day.


    March 26, 2006


    Bound, Blindfolded and Dead: The Face of Atrocity in Baghdad




    BAGHDAD, Iraq, March 25 — Mohannad al-Azawi had just finished sprinkling food in his bird cages at his pet shop in south Baghdad, when three carloads of gunmen pulled up.


    In front of a crowd, he was grabbed by his shirt and driven off.


    Mr. Azawi was among the few Sunni Arabs on the block, and, according to witnesses, when a Shiite friend tried to intervene, a gunman stuck a pistol to his head and said, “You want us to blow your brains out, too?”


    Mr. Azawi’s body was found the next morning at a sewage treatment plant. A slight man who raised nightingales, he had been hogtied, drilled with power tools and shot.


    In the last month, hundreds of men have been kidnapped, tortured and executed in Baghdad. As Iraqi and American leaders struggle to avert a civil war, the bodies keep piling up. The city’s homicide rate has tripled from 11 to 33 a day, military officials said. The period from March 7 to March 21 was typically brutal: at least 191 corpses, many mutilated, surfaced in garbage bins, drainage ditches, minibuses and pickup trucks.


    There were the four Duleimi brothers, Khalid, Tarek, Taleb and Salaam, seized from their home in front of their wives. And Achmed Abdulsalam, last seen at a checkpoint in his freshly painted BMW and found dead under a bridge two days later. And Mushtak al-Nidawi, a law student nicknamed Titanic for his Leonardo DiCaprio good looks, whose body was returned to his family with his skull chopped in half.


    What frightens Iraqis most about these gangland-style killings is the impunity. According to reports filed by family members and more than a dozen interviews, many men were taken in daylight, in public, with witnesses all around. Few cases, if any, have been investigated.


    Part of the reason may be that most victims are Sunnis, and there is growing suspicion that they were killed by Shiite death squads backed by government forces in a cycle of sectarian revenge. This allegation has been circulating in Baghdad for months, and as more Sunnis turn up dead, more people are inclined to believe it.


    “This is sectarian cleansing,” said Mahmoud Othman, a Kurdish member of Parliament, who has maintained a degree of neutrality between Shiites and Sunnis.


    Mr. Othman said there were atrocities on each side. “But what is different is when Shiites get killed by suicide bombs, everyone comes together to fight the Sunni terrorists,” he said. “When Shiites kill Sunnis, there is no response, because much of this killing is done by militias connected to the government.”


    The imbalance of killing, and the suspicion the government may be involved, is deepening the Shiite-Sunni divide, just as American officials are urging Sunni and Shiite leaders to form an inclusive government, hoping that such a show of unity will prevent a full-scale civil war.


    The pressure is increasing on Prime Minister Ibrahim al-Jaafari, a Shiite, but few expect him to crack down, partly because he needs the support of the Shiite militias to stay in power.


    Haidar al-Ibadi, Mr. Jaafari’s spokesman, acknowledged that “some of the police forces have been infiltrated.” But he said “outsiders,” rather than Iraqis, were to blame.


    Now many Sunnis, who used to be the most anti-American community in Iraq, are asking for American help.


    “If the Americans leave, we are finished,” said Hassan al-Azawi, whose brother was taken from the pet shop.


    He thought for a moment more.


    “We may be finished already.”


    The human rights office of the Iraqi Islamic Party, a mostly Sunni group, has cataloged more than 540 cases of Sunni men and a few of Sunni women who were kidnapped and killed since Feb. 22, when a Shiite shrine in Samarra was destroyed, unleashing a wave of sectarian fury.


    As the case of Mr. Azawi shows, some were easy targets.


    Mr. Azawi was the youngest of five brothers. He was 27 and lived with his parents. He loved birds since he was a boy. Nightingales were his favorite. Then canaries, pigeons and doves.


    During Saddam Hussein’s reign, he was drafted into the army, but he deserted.


    “He was crazy about birds,” said a Shiite neighbor, Ibrahim Muhammad.


    A few years ago, Mr. Azawi opened a small pet shop in Dawra, a rough-and-tumble, mostly Shiite neighborhood in southern Baghdad.


    Friends said that Mr. Azawi was not interested in politics or religion. He never went to the Sunni mosque, though his brothers did. He did not pay attention to news or watch television. This characteristic might have cost him his life.


    On Feb. 22, the Askariya Shrine in Samarra was attacked at 7 a.m. But Mr. Azawi did not know what had happened until 4 p.m., his friends said. He was in his own little world, tending his birds, when a Shiite shopkeeper broke the news and told him to close. He stayed in his house for three days after that. His friends said he was terrified.


    The day of the shrine attack, Shiite mobs began rampaging through Baghdad, burning Sunni mosques and slaughtering Sunni residents. Some Sunnis struck back and killed Shiites. The mayhem claimed hundreds of lives and exposed tensions that until then had been bubbling just beneath the surface.


    Two Shiite militias, the Badr Organization, which once trained in Iran, and the Mahdi Army, the foot soldiers of a young, firebrand Shiite cleric, Moktada al-Sadr, were blamed for much of the bloodshed. Mr. Sadr’s men often wear all-black uniforms, and many of the relatives of kidnapped people said men in black uniforms had taken them. Many people also said the men in black arrived with the police.


    Around 9 on the night of the shrine bombing, a mob of black-clad men surrounded the Duleimi brothers, family members said.


    The brothers lived in New Baghdad, a working-class neighborhood that is mostly Shiite. They were all gardeners and religious men who prayed five times a day. They had relatives in Falluja, in the heart of Sunni territory.


    Where a family hails from in Iraq often reveals whether it is Sunni or Shiite. Nowadays, because of the sectarian friction, people are increasingly aware of the slight regional differences in accent, dress and name. Some first names, like Omar for Sunnis, or Haidar for Shiites, are clear giveaways. Others, like Khalid, are not. Tribal names can also be a sign.


    A cousin of the Duleimi brothers, who identified himself as Khalaf, said the four men were taken at gunpoint from the small house they shared. The next day, their bodies turned up in a drainage ditch near Sadr City, a stronghold of the Mahdi Army. All their fingers and toes had been sawed off.


    That same day Mushtak al-Nidawi, 20, was kidnapped. According to an aunt, Aliah al-Bakr, he was chatting on his cellphone outside his home in Bayah when a squad of Mahdi militiamen marched up the street, shouting, “We’re coming after you, Sunnis!”


    Ms. Bakr said they snatched Mr. Nidawi while his mother stood at the door. His body surfaced on the streets seven days later, his skin a map of bruises, his handsome face burned by acid, his fingernails pulled out.


    “I told his mother he was shot,” Ms. Bakr said.


    Sheik Kamal al-Araji, a spokesman for Mr. Sadr, said “the Mahdi Army does not commit such crimes.”


    He also said the militiamen would soon change their uniforms so they would no longer be confused with thugs.


    The question of who exactly is behind these collective assassinations has become a delicate political issue. So has the disparity in the killings.


    Many Sunni politicians, including secular ones like Methal al-Alusi, accuse the Shiite-led government of backing a campaign to wipe out Sunnis. Many Shiite leaders, including Prime Minister Jaafari, blame “foreign terrorists,” without being more specific.


    Zalmay Khalilzad, the American ambassador, has expressed increasing alarm about militia violence, saying it is a bigger killer than car bombs, the former No. 1 security threat. But he has been careful to paint the problem in broad strokes, implying both sides are at fault.


    There are a few Shiite victims, such as Mohammed Jabbar Hussein, who lived in a mostly Sunni area west of Baghdad. He disappeared on Feb. 26 and was found four days later, shot in the head.


    But the militias under the greatest suspicion, and the ones with the strongest ties to the government, are Shiite. Maj. Gen. Rick Lynch, a spokesman for the American military, said Shiite militias have played a role in the killings and “the government of Iraq has to take action against the militias.”


    Then there is the question of prosecution. While countless Sunni insurgents have been arrested and tried on murder charges, very few Shiite militiamen have been apprehended.


    Thamir al-Janabi, who is in charge of the Interior Ministry’s criminal investigation department, declined to comment. So did several other Interior Ministry officials.


    A new round of revenge attacks began March 12, around 6 p.m., when a string of car bombs exploded in Sadr City, killing nearly 50 civilians. Most security officials, Shiite and Sunni, blamed Sunni terrorists for the attack.


    An hour and a half later, half a dozen gunmen arrived at Mr. Azawi’s pet shop.


    Wisam Saad Nawaf was playing pool across the street. He said a man wearing a ski mask arrived with the gunmen, who were not wearing masks, and that when they grabbed Mr. Azawi, the masked man nodded.


    “He must have been an informant from the neighborhood,” Mr. Nawaf explained.


    Mr. Azawi got into a car. The gunmen closed the doors. The next morning Mr. Azawi’s body was found at the sewage plant. Autopsy photos showed how badly he was abused. His skin was covered with purple welts. His legs and face had drill holes in them. Both shoulders had been broken.


    His brother Hassan carries the autopsy photos with him, along with a pistol.


    “I cannot live without vengeance,” he said.


    Hassan said there were a few Shiites at his brother’s funeral, which he took as a grim speck of hope.


    One week later, on March 20, the body of Mr. Abdulsalam, another Sunni, was found under a bridge. Mr. Abdulsalam, 21, worked with his father in a real estate office. His family said he was last seen in his BMW, stopped at a Mahdi Army checkpoint.







     







    Today’s Papers


    From Russia With Love
    By Daniel Politi
    Posted Saturday, March 25, 2006, at 5:45 AM ET


    The Washington Post leads with, the Los Angeles Times fronts, and the New York Times reefers revelations that Russian officials passed on intelligence about U.S. war plans and troop movements to Iraqi leaders in the early days of the American invasion. It seems the Russians might have had a spy inside the U.S. Central Command. The LAT leads with diplomatic sources saying that Iran could create enough highly enriched uranium to build a bomb within three years, instead of five to 10 years as was commonly believed. The NYT leads, and the WP goes inside, with the announcements by the United States and the European Union that they will impose sanctions against Belarussian leaders to denounce the arrest of hundreds of political protesters early Friday morning. The Wall Street Journal tops its worldwide newsbox with an Iraq roundup that includes the spying allegations and the announcement by Iraq’s president that a new unity government could be in place by the end of the month. At least 51 people, including two U.S. soldiers, were killed in attacks across Iraq yesterday (the rest of the papers mention the deaths in a wire story inside or a brief).


    The Russian spying allegations were included in a 210-page study based on Iraqi documents and interviews with former leaders. Even though some of the information that was passed on was inaccurate, and it is unclear whether the Kremlin approved the operation, if the allegations are true it will almost certainly further strain the relationship between Washington and Moscow. “This is one step short of firing upon us themselves … It’s hard to get more unfriendly than that,” an analyst tells the LAT. The NYT mentions that since some of the information was false, it raises the possibility that the Russians might have been part of a U.S. military effort to fool Iraqi leaders.


    In order to produce quick results, Iran seems to be trying to put together as many centrifuges as possible in a short period of time. But experts still emphasized that the three-year estimate is a best-case scenario for Iran since it still has to overcome several important technological hurdles that could easily cause delays.


    The sanctions on Belarussian leaders will probably involve travel and financial restrictions. The United States called on Belarus to release all of the protesters who were arrested while demonstrating against the March 19 elections, which are widely believed to have been a sham. The NYT is the only one to follow up on the arrests from Minsk and says that, according to opposition leaders, most of those arrested were given a 10-day sentence. Prison officials refused to release a list of the detained.


    In a Page One article, the NYT seeks to explain why there has been less talk about Abu Musab al-Zarqawi lately. Al-Zarqawi, who is the head of al-Qaida in Mesopotamia, is keeping a low profile as his group has supposedly joined forces with other insurgent organizations to create the Mujahadeen Shura (Council of Holy Warriors), which is allegedly under Iraqi leadership. Under the new structure, al-Zarqawi’s group has toned down the rhetoric and no longer claims responsibility for large civilian attacks. It is possible that by passing on the leadership to an Iraqi, al-Zarqawi is now ready to set up terrorist groups in other countries in the region.


    The Post goes inside with new rules proposed by the Federal Elections Commission that would pretty much extend the media exemption to the online world, thereby permitting Web sites and bloggers to attack or praise candidates. Campaign advertisements on the Internet will have to be paid with money regulated by federal campaign law and must carry a disclaimer. For the most part, bloggers and their advocates welcomed the new proposals.


    The NYT fronts news that the American Red Cross fired two supervisors yesterday as a consequence of its investigations into irregularities in the New Orleans relief operations. The two were in charge of the kitchens and shelters and, like 95 percent of those who work for the Red Cross, they were volunteers.


    After the whole Dubai ports kerfuffle, the WSJ reports that lawmakers are seeking to have more leverage when it comes to approving foreign investments in the United States. The Senate banking chairman is seeking to introduce a bill that would allow Congress to scrutinize these deals. Some business groups, along with administration officials, fear this could harm the U.S. economy.


    The LAT picks up the story that Barbara Bush donated money for Hurricane Katrina evacuees in Houston, and specifically instructed that part of the money be spent on buying educational software from her son Neil’s company. Although the LAT does not mention it, the Houston Chronicle first reported this story on Thursday. The WP‘s Al Kamen mentioned the story in his column yesterday, and credited the Chronicle for the scoop.


    The LAT and WP report that a conservative blogger hired by the WP‘s Web site resigned soon after evidence surfaced in liberal blogs that he plagiarized part of a movie review he wrote for the National Review Online. Earlier, liberal blogs had raised issues of plagiarism with some articles he wrote for his college paper. The 24-year-old Ben Domenech had started the blog, titled Red America, only three days earlier. His hiring was met with complaints from readers who questioned his qualifications and some of his earlier statements that included calling Coretta Scott King a “communist.”


    Sounds like a blogger … The WSJ reports that judging by such factors as electricity and water consumption, it is clear that more people in the country are waking up earlier than ever. This has resulted in some businesses realizing this trend and adjusting their schedules. For example, CNN has changed the start time of its morning news show from 7 a.m. to 6 a.m. and some stores, such as Staples, are opening earlier. As a result of increased around-the-clock connectivity with the office, many are realizing that the early morning is the only time they can have to themselves. Some, however, are not affected. Hugh Hefner, the founder and editor in chief of Playboy magazine, says he wakes up in the late morning and when he gets ready for work he simply changes “out of one pair of pajamas and into another.”

    Daniel Politi is a writer living in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

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