December 5, 2005


















  • My Space We Are The World




    DECEMBER 12, 2005

    COVER STORY

    The MySpace Generation
    They live online. They buy online. They play online. Their power is growing

    COVER STORY PODCAST

    The Toadies broke up. It was four years ago, when Amanda Adams was 16. She drove into Dallas from suburban Plano, Tex., on a school night to hear the final two-hour set of the local rock band, which had gone national with a hit 1995 album. “Tears were streaming down my face,” she recalls, a slight Texas lilt to her voice. During the long summer that followed, Adams turned to the Web in search of solace, plugging the lead singer’s name into Google repeatedly until finally his new band popped up. She found it on Buzz-Oven.com, a social networking Web site for Dallas teens.

    Adams jumped onto the Buzz-Oven network, posting an online self-portrait (dark hair tied back, tongue out, goofy eyes for the cam) and listing her favorite music so she could connect with other Toadies fans. Soon she was heading off to biweekly meetings at Buzz-Oven’s airy loft in downtown Dallas and helping other “Buzzers” judge their favorite groups in marathon battle-of-the-bands sessions. (Buzz-0ven.com promotes the winners.) At her school, Frisco High — and at malls and concerts — she passed out free Buzz-Oven sampler CDs plastered with a large logo from Coca-Cola Inc., () which backs the site in the hope of reaching more teens on their home turf. Adams also brought dozens of friends to the concerts Buzz-Oven sponsored every few months. “It was cool, something I could brag about,” says Adams, now 20 and still an active Buzzer.

    Now that Adams is a junior at the University of North Texas at Denton, she’s online more than ever. It’s 7 p.m. on a recent Saturday, and she has just sweated her way through an online quiz for her advertising management class. (The quiz was “totally out of control,” write classmates on a school message board minutes later.) She checks a friend’s blog entry on MySpace.com to find out where a party will be that night. Then she starts an Instant Messenger (IM) conversation about the evening’s plans with a few pals.

    KIDS, BANDS, COCA-COLA
    At the same time, her boyfriend IMs her a retail store link to see a new PC he just bought, and she starts chatting with him. She’s also postering for the next Buzz-Oven concert by tacking the flier on various friends’ MySpace profiles, and she’s updating her own blog on Xanga.com, another social network she uses mostly to post photos. The TV is set to TBS, which plays a steady stream of reruns like Friends and Seinfeld — Adams has a TV in her bedroom as well as in the living room — but she keeps the volume turned down so she can listen to iTunes over her computer speakers. Simultaneously, she’s chatting with dorm mate Carrie Clark, 20, who’s doing pretty much the same thing from a laptop on her bed.

    You have just entered the world of what you might call Generation @. Being online, being a Buzzer, is a way of life for Adams and 3,000-odd Dallas-area youth, just as it is for millions of young Americans across the country. And increasingly, social networks are their medium. As the first cohort to grow up fully wired and technologically fluent, today’s teens and twentysomethings are flocking to Web sites like Buzz-Oven as a way to establish their social identities. Here you can get a fast pass to the hip music scene, which carries a hefty amount of social currency offline. It’s where you go when you need a friend to nurse you through a breakup, a mentor to tutor you on your calculus homework, an address for the party everyone is going to. For a giant brand like Coke, these networks also offer a direct pipeline to the thirsty but fickle youth market.

    Preeminent among these virtual hangouts is MySpace.com, whose membership has nearly quadrupled since January alone, to 40 million members. Youngsters log on so obsessively that MySpace ranked No. 15 on the entire U.S. Internet in terms of page hits in October, according to Nielsen//NetRatings. Millions also hang out at other up-and-coming networks such as Facebook.com, which connects college students, and Xanga.com, an agglomeration of shared blogs. A second tier of some 300 smaller sites, such as Buzz-Oven, Classface.com, and Photobucket.com, operate under — and often inside or next to — the larger ones.

    Although networks are still in their infancy, experts think they’re already creating new forms of social behavior that blur the distinctions between online and real-world interactions. In fact, today’s young generation largely ignores the difference. Most adults see the Web as a supplement to their daily lives. They tap into information, buy books or send flowers, exchange apartments, or link up with others who share passions for dogs, say, or opera. But for the most part, their social lives remain rooted in the traditional phone call and face-to-face interaction.

    The MySpace generation, by contrast, lives comfortably in both worlds at once. Increasingly, America’s middle- and upper-class youth use social networks as virtual community centers, a place to go and sit for a while (sometimes hours). While older folks come and go for a task, Adams and her social circle are just as likely to socialize online as off. This is partly a function of how much more comfortable young people are on the Web: Fully 87% of 12- to 17-year-olds use the Internet, vs. two-thirds of adults, according to the Pew Internet & American Life Project.

    Teens also use many forms of media simultaneously. Fifteen- to eighteen-year-olds average nearly 6 1/2 hours a day watching TV, playing video games, and surfing the Net, according to a recent Kaiser Family Foundation survey. A quarter of that time, they’re multitasking. The biggest increase: computer use for activities such as social networking, which has soared nearly threefold since 2000, to 1 hour and 22 minutes a day on average.

    Aside from annoying side effects like hyperdistractibility, there are some real perils with underage teens and their open-book online lives. In a few recent cases, online predators have led kids into dangerous, real-life situations, and parents’ eyes are being opened to their kids’ new world.

    ONE-HIT WONDERS
    Meanwhile, the phenomenon of these exploding networks has companies clamoring to be a part of the new social landscape. News Corp. () Chief Executive Rupert Murdoch has spent $1.3 billion on Web acquisitions so far to better reach this coveted demographic — $580 million alone for the July purchase of MySpace parent Intermix Media. And Silicon Valley venture capitalists such as Accel Partners and Redpoint Ventures are pouring millions into Facebook and other social networks. What’s not yet clear is whether this is a dot-com era replay, with established companies and investors sinking huge sums into fast-growth startups with no viable business models. Facebook, barely a year old and run by a 21-year-old student on leave from Harvard, has a staff of 50 and venture capital — but no profits.

    Still, consumer companies such as Coke, Apple Computer (), and Procter & Gamble () are making a relatively low-cost bet by experimenting with networks to launch products and to embed their brands in the minds of hard-to-reach teens. So far, no solid format has emerged, partly because youth networks are difficult for companies to tap into. They’re also easy to fall out of favor with: While Coke, Sony () Pictures Digital, and Apple have succeeded with MySpace, Buzz-Oven, and other sites, P&G’s attempt to create an independent network around a body spray, for one, has faltered so far.

    Many youth networks are evanescent, in any case. Like one-hit wonder the Baha Men (Who Let the Dogs Out) and last year’s peasant skirts, they can evaporate as quickly as they appear. But young consumers may follow brands offline — if companies can figure out how to talk to youths in their online vernacular. Major companies should be exploring this new medium, since networks transmit marketing messages “person-to-person, which is more credible,” says David Rich Bell, a marketing professor at the University of Pennsylvania’s Wharton School.

    So far, though, marketers have had little luck creating these networks from scratch. Instead, the connections have to bubble up from those who use them. To understand how such networks get started, share a blue-cheese burger at the Meridian Room, a dive bar in downtown Dallas, with Buzz-Oven founder Aden Holt. At 6 feet 9 inches, with one blue eye, one brown one, and a shock of shaggy red hair, Holt is a sort of public figure in the local music scene. He started a record label his senior year at college and soon turned his avocation into a career as a music promoter, putting out 27 CDs in the decade that followed.

    In 2000, as Internet access spread, Holt cooked up Buzz-Oven as a new way to market concerts. His business plan was simple. First, he would produce sample CDs of local bands. Dedicated Buzzers like Adams would do the volunteer marketing, giving out the CDs for free, chatting up the concerts online, and slapping up posters and stickers in school bathrooms, local music stores, and on telephone poles. Then Holt would get the bands to put on a live concert, charging them $10 for every fan he turned out. But to make the idea work, Holt needed capital to produce the free CDs. One of his bands had recently done a show sponsored by Coke, and after asking around, he found the marketer’s company’s Dallas sales office. He called for an appointment. And then he called again. And again.

    Coke’s people didn’t get back to him for weeks, and then he was offered only a brief appointment. With plenty of time to practice his sales pitch, Holt spit out his idea in one breath: Marketing through social networks was still an experiment, but it was worth a small investment to try reaching teens through virtual word of mouth. Coke rep Julie Bowyer thought the idea had promise. Besides, Holt’s request was tiny compared with the millions Coke regularly sinks into campaigns. So she wrote him a check on the spot.

    DEEP CONNECTIONS
    By the time Ben Lawson became head of Coke’s Dallas sales office in 2001, Buzz-Oven had mushroomed into a nexus that allowed hundreds of Dallas-area teens to talk to one another and socialize, online and off. A middle-aged father of two teens himself, Lawson spent a good deal of time poring over data about how best to reach youth like Adams. He knew what buzzer Mike Ziemer, 20, so clearly articulates: “Kids don’t buy stuff because they see a magazine ad. They buy stuff because other kids tell them to.”

    What Lawson really likes about Buzz-Oven is how deeply it weaves into teens’ lives. Sure, the network reaches only a small niche. But Buzzers have created an authentic community, and Coke has been welcomed as part of the group. At a recent dinner, founder Holt asked a few Buzzers their opinions about the company. “I don’t know if they care about the music or they just want their name on it, but knowing they’re involved helps,” says Michael Henry, 19. “I know they care; they think what we’re doing is cool,” says Michele Barr, 21. Adds Adams: “They let us do our thing. They don’t censor what we do.”

    Words to live by for a marketer, figures Lawson, particularly since Coke pays Buzz-Oven less than $70,000 a year. In late October, Holt signed a new contract with Coke to help him launch Buzz-Oven Austin in February. The amount is confidential, but he says it’s enough for 10,000 CDs, three to four months of street promotions, and 50,000 fliers, plus some radio and print ads and a Web site promotion. Meanwhile, Buzz-Oven is building relations with other brands such as the Dallas Observer newspaper and McDonald’s () Chipotle restaurants, which kicks in free food for Buzzer volunteers who promote the shows. Profits from ticket sales are small but growing, says Holt.

    Not so long ago, behemoth MySpace was this tiny. Tom Anderson, a Santa Monica (Calif.) musician with a film degree, partnered with former Xdrive Inc. marketer Chris DeWolfe to create a Web site where musicians could post their music and fans could chat about it. Anderson knew music and film; De Wolfe knew the Internet business. Anderson cajoled Hollywood friends — musicians, models, actors — to join his online community, and soon the news spread. A year later, everyone from Hollywood teen queen Hilary Duff to Plano (Tex.) teen queen Adams has an account.

    It’s becoming a phenomenon unto itself. With 20 million of its members logging on in October, MySpace now draws so much traffic that it accounted for 10% of all advertisements viewed online in the month. This is all the more amazing because MySpace doesn’t allow those ubiquitous pop-up ads that block your view, much less spyware, which monitors what you watch and infuses it with pop-ups. In fact, the advertising can be so subtle that kids don’t distinguish it from content. “It’s what our users want,” says Anderson.

    As MySpace has exploded, Anderson has struggled to maintain the intimate atmosphere that lends social networks their authenticity. When new users join, Tom becomes their first friend and invites them to send him a message. When they do, they hear right back, from him or from the one-quarter of MySpace’s 165 staffers who handle customer service. Ask Adams what she thinks of MySpace’s recent acquisition by News Corp., and she replies that she doesn’t blame “Tom” for selling, she would have done the same thing. She’s talking about Anderson, but it’s hard to tell at first because she refers to him so casually, as if he were someone she has known for years.

    That’s why Murdoch has vowed not to wrest creative control from Anderson and DeWolfe. Instead News Corp.’s resources will help them nourish new MySpace dreams. Earlier this month they launched a record label. In the next few months, the duo says, they will launch a movie production unit and a satellite radio station. By March they hope to venture into wireless technology, perhaps even starting a wireless company to compete with Virgin Mobile or Sprint Nextel’s Boost. Says DeWolfe: “We want to be a lifestyle brand.”

    It’s proof that a network — and its advertising — can take off if it gives kids something they badly want. Last spring, Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg noticed that the college students who make up most of his 9.5 million members were starting groups with names like Apple Students, where they swapped information about how to use their Macs. So he asked Apple if it wanted to form an official group. Now — for a fee neither company will disclose — Apple sponsors the group, giving away iPod Shuffles in weekly contests, making product announcements, and providing links to its student discount program.

    The idea worked so well that Facebook began helping anyone who wanted to start a group. Today there are more than a dozen, including several sponsored by advertisers such as Victoria’s Secret and Electronic Arts. Zuckerberg soon realized that undergrads are more likely to respond to a peer group of Apple users than to the traditional banner ads, which he hopes to eventually phase out. Another of his innovations: ads targeted at students of a specific college. They’re a way for a local restaurant or travel agency to advertise. Called Facebook Announcements, it’s all automated, so anyone can go onto Facebook, pay $14 a day, and fill out an ad.

    SPARKLE AND FIZZLE
    Still, social networks’ relations with companies remain uneasy. Last year, for example, Buzz-Oven was nearly thrown off track when a band called Flickerstick wanted to post a song called Teenage Dope Fiend on the network. Holt told Buzzers: “Well, you can’t use that song. I’d be encouraging teenagers to try drugs.” They saw his point, and several Buzzers persuaded the band to offer up a different song. But such potential conflicts are one way, Holt concedes, that Buzz-Oven’s corporate sponsorships could come to a halt.

    Like Holt, other network founders have dealt with such conflicts by turning to their users for advice. Xanga co-founder John Hiler has resisted intrusive forms of advertising like spyware or pop-ups, selling only the conventional banner ads. When advertisers recently demanded more space for larger ads, Hiler turned the question over to Xanga bloggers, posting links to three examples of new ads. More than 3,000 users commented pro and con, and Hiler went with the model users liked best. By involving them, Hiler kept the personal connection that many say they feel with network founders — even though Xanga’s membership has expanded to 21 million.

    So far, corporate advertisers have had little luck creating such relationships on their own. In May, P&G set up what it hoped would become a social network around Sparkle Body Spray, aimed at tweens. The site features chatty messages from fake characters named for scents like Rose and Vanilla (“Friends call me Van”). Virtually no one joined, and no entries have comments from real users. “There wasn’t a lot of interesting content to engage people,” says Anastasia Goodstein, who documents the intersection between companies and the MySpace Generation at Ypulse.com. P&G concedes that the site is an experiment, and the company has found more success with a body-spray network embedded in MySpace.com.

    The most basic threat to networks may be the whims of their users, who after all are mostly still kids. Take Friendster, the first networking Web site to gain national attention. It erupted in 2003, going from a few thousand users to nearly 20 million. But the company couldn’t keep up, causing frustration among users when the site grew sluggish and prone to crash. It also started with no music, no message boards or classifieds, no blogging. Many jumped ship when MySpace came along, offering the ability to post song tracks and more elaborate profiles. Friendster has been hustling to get back into the game, adding in new options. But only 942,000 people clicked on the site in October, vs. 20.6 million who clicked on MySpace in the same time.

    That’s the elusive nature of trends and fads, and it poses a challenge for networks large and small. MySpace became a threat to tiny Buzz-Oven last year when Buzzers found they could do more cool things there, from blogs to more music and better profile options. Buzzer message board traffic slowed to a crawl. To stop the hemorrhaging, Holt joined MySpace himself and set up a profile for Buzz-Oven. His network now operates both independently and as a subsite on MySpace, but it still works. Most of Holt’s Dallas crowd came back, and Buzz-Oven is up to 3,604 MySpace members now, slightly more than when it was a stand-alone network.

    Even if the new approach works, Holt faces a succession issue that’s likely to hit other networks at some point. At 35, he’s well past the age of his users. Even the friends who helped him launch Buzz-Oven.com are in their late 20s — ancient to members of his target demographic. So either he raises the age of the group — or replaces himself with someone younger. He’s trying the latter, betting on Mike Ziemer, the 20-year-old recent member, even giving him a small amount of cash.

    Ziemer, it turns out, is an influencer. That means record labels and clothing brands pay him to talk up their products, for which he pulls down several hundred dollars a month. Ziemer has spiky brown hair and a round, expressive face. In his MySpace profile he lists his interests in this order: Girls. Music. Friends. Movies. He has 4,973 “friends” on MySpace. At all times, he carries a T-Mobile Sidekick, which he uses to text message, e-mail, and send photos to his friends. Sometimes he also talks on it, but not often. “I hate the phone,” he says.

    Think of Ziemer as Aden Holt 2.0. Like Amanda Adams, he’s also a student at UT-Denton. When he moved to the area from Southern California last year, he started Third String PR, a miniature version of Buzz-Oven that brings bands to the ‘burbs. He uses MySpace.com to promote bands and chats online with potential concertgoers. Ziemer can pack a church basement with tweens for a concert, even though they aren’t old enough to drive. On the one hand, Ziemer idolizes Holt, who has a larger version of Ziemer’s company and a ton of connections in the music industry. On the other hand, Ziemer thinks Holt is old. “Have you ever tried to talk with him over IM?” he says. “He’s just not plugged in enough.”

    Exactly why Holt wants Ziemer on Buzz-Oven. He knows the younger entrepreneur can tap a new wave of kids — and keep the site’s corporate sponsor on board. But he worries that Ziemer doesn’t have the people skills. What’s more, should Ziemer lose patience with Buzz-Oven, he could blacklist Holt by telling his 9,217 virtual friends that Buzz-Oven is no longer cool. In the online world, one powerfully networked person can have a devastatingly large impact on a small society like Buzz-Oven.

    For now, the gamble is paying off. Attendance is up at Buzz-Oven events, and if the Austin launch goes smoothly, Holt will be one step closer to his dream of going national. But given the fluid world of networks, he’s taking nothing for granted.


    By Jessi Hempel, with Paula Lehman in New York
    Copyright 2000-2004, by The McGraw-Hill Companies Inc. All rights reserved.
    Terms of Use Privacy Notice



     







    Dr. Ecstasy




    Reuters Photo:

    Alexander Shulgin, pharmacologist and chemist known for his creation of new psychoactive chemicals, is interviewed…

    Back to Story – Help
    “Dr. Ecstasy” laments the rave drug’s notoriety By Jason Szep
    Fri Dec 2, 7:02 PM ET

    The scientist who introduced Ecstasy to the world in the 1970s fears the drug’s notoriety and popularity at nightclubs is destroying any chance that it might be used to treat the mentally ill.

    “It’s very excellent potential for being used as medicine has been badly jeopardized,” Alexander Shulgin, told Reuters after defending the merits of mind-altering drugs at a symposium on the human brain at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology this week.

    “It’s gone out of control,” lamented Shulgin, a tall Californian with a mane of white hair and a Santa Claus-like beard, who is widely known as “Dr. Ecstasy.”

    A psychopharmacological researcher who once had a license from the U.S. government to develop any illegal drug, Shulgin believes so strongly in the power of psychedelic drugs in unlocking the human mind that he plans to publish a 1,500-page encyclopedia next year of all his creations.

    The 80-year-old former lecturer at the University of California at Berkeley, who self-tested many of his experiments and admits to more than 4,000 psychedelic experiences, finds little comfort in Ecstasy’s image as the drug of choice at all-night nightclub dance parties or raves.

    “These rave scenes have added kindling to the fire of governmental disapproval,” he said.

    Use of the drug, known for inducing euphoria and energy while reducing inhibitions, surged 70 percent from 1995 to 2000, according to United Nations data.

    Ecstasy-related deaths, while relatively rare, make enough headlines to force authorities to regularly issue health warnings. Australia’s National Drug and Alcohol Research Center in April said users risked harmful psychological effects.

    Tracing that rise of the drug leads straight to Shulgin. A gifted biochemist and former National Institutes of Health consultant, he unearthed a formula for MDMA — a synthetic drug with psychedelic and stimulant effects — in a 1912 chemistry text and synthesized it into Ecstasy in 1976.

    After testing it on himself, he became convinced of its power to treat mental illness. He gave the drug to psychotherapist and close friend, Leo Zeff, who sampled it, agreed, and passed it to hundreds of other therapists.

    Shulgin, who had already quit a senior job at Dell Chemical after sampling mescaline in 1960 in a life-changing introduction to psychedelic drugs, enjoyed a period of celebrity as a cutting-edge chemist.

    He described his first experiment with psychedelic drugs as a “very delightful experience” in which he could “see clearly what he could not appreciate before.”

    Ecstasy was used in its early days as a treatment for depression and other illnesses, but that ended abruptly in 1986 when it was banned by the U.S. Drug Enforcement Agency.

    Recently, however, Ecstasy has had a modest comeback in clinical therapy. U.S authorities gave researchers at the Medical University of South Carolina permission last year to use MDMA in a small study of patients suffering post-traumatic stress.

    In August, researchers at Duke University in North Carolina found that amphetamines, including Ecstasy, reversed the effects of Parkinson’s disease in mice, raising the possibility of exploring related treatments for humans.

    Meanwhile, Shulgin, whose involvement in psychedelic drug research spans 40 years, is at work compiling his encyclopedia on 1,000 psychedelic compounds. It is modeled on the Merck Index of chemical properties.

    “It will be everything that is known to be, has been tried but not found yet to be, or should be tried because they are apt to be psychedelic,” he said of the work, which he expects to self-publish by the middle of next year.



     







    Face Transplant in France




    Amiens University Hospital, via Reuters

    A woman who received a partial face transplant was taken from the operation in Amiens, as shown in this image released Friday in Lyon.


    December 3, 2005


    Dire Wounds, a New Face, a Glimpse in a Mirror




    LYON, France, Dec. 2 – The world’s first person to wear a new face awoke Monday, 24 hours after her operation in the northern city of Amiens, and looked in the mirror.


    The swollen nose, lips and chin she saw there were not her own – those had been ripped from her head by her pet Labrador in May – but for the 38-year-old woman, whose face had become a raw, lipless grimace, they were close enough. She took a pen and paper and wrote for the doctors, “Merci.”


    On Friday, those doctors defended their rush to give the woman a partial face transplant just months after her disfigurement, despite the enormous risks of death and psychological difficulties. They dismissed objections that they were bent on glory at the expense of the patient, whose identity is being withheld at her request.


    “We are doctors,” said Jean-Michel Dubernard, who led the transplant team and who helped carry out the first hand transplant in Lyon seven years ago. “We had a patient with a very severe disfigurement that would have been extremely difficult, if not impossible, to repair with classic surgery.”


    In a news conference at Édouard-Herriot Hospital in Lyon, where the patient was transferred for monitoring of immunosuppressive therapy that will continue throughout her life, the doctors explained how the woman’s gruesome wounds almost immediately made her a candidate for the world’s first face transplant. They heatedly denied local news reports that quoted her estranged teenage daughter as saying she was suicidal, raising questions about whether she was psychologically stable enough for the operation.


    Dr. Dubernard has faced such accusations before. Clint Hallam, the man he selected for the world’s first hand transplant, refused to keep up with the lifelong drug regimen required to suppress immune responses, along with regular exercises to train the new hand. After three years he had the hand removed.


    According to Dr. Dubernard, the woman had quarreled with her daughter one evening in May at her home in the northern city of Valenciennes, and the daughter had left to spend the night at her grandmother’s.


    The woman was agitated, he said, and took a sleeping pill. At some point during the night, he said, she arose and stumbled through the house, encountering the dog.


    Local news reports have suggested that the woman, who is divorced, fell unconscious and that the dog chewed and clawed her face in an attempt to revive her. But Dr. Dubernard said the dog had been adopted from the local pound and was known to be aggressive. The dog has since been destroyed.


    Shortly after the woman’s injury, Dr. Bernard Devauchelle, head of face and jaw surgery at Amiens University Hospital, decided that the woman was a candidate for a partial face transplant and sent an urgent request for help in locating a donor to the French Biomedicine Agency, which oversees the allocation of organs for transplant in France. The window for a successful transplant was narrow, the doctors said, because the wound was developing scar tissue.


    Dr. Benoît Lengelé, a Belgian surgeon who assisted in the transplant, said the woman would have required at least three or four traditional plastic surgery operations to rebuild her face with skin flaps from other parts of her body, but the results would never have been aesthetically or functionally satisfactory.


    Meanwhile, the woman’s injury had made it difficult for her to talk or even drink and eat, because food and liquid spilled easily from her mouth. The doctors said her ability to open her jaw was also progressively diminishing as her wounded tissue stiffened. In July, Dr. Devauchelle consulted with Dr. Dubernard, who visited the woman in early August.


    “The moment she removed her mask, which she always wore, I had no more hesitation,” Dr. Dubernard said Friday.


    No information was given about the donor, a brain-dead woman whose anonymity is protected by law. She was located on Saturday at a hospital in the northern city of Lille, 85 miles from Amiens.


    Brain-dead patients in France are presumed to be organ donors unless they have made explicit provisions to the contrary, and approval by next of kin is not normally required. But given the delicacy of the case, the donor’s family was consulted about the possible harvesting of part of the donor’s face during the initial interviews that are undertaken to ensure that the deceased had not given instructions preventing organ donations.


    A special team of psychologists worked with the family on Saturday afternoon as the doctors involved were notified that a potential donor had been found. By midnight Saturday, Dr. Devauchelle, who led the surgical team, was in Lille to begin harvesting the face while another team of surgeons in snowy Amiens began removing scar tissue from the patient in preparation for the transplant.


    Harvesting of the face was complicated by the convergence of several teams to remove other organs from the donor, but the operation was complete by 5 a.m. Sunday. Before the donor’s funeral, a separate team of doctors reconstructed her face with a silicone prosthesis made from a cast taken before the dissection.


    “The restoration was remarkable,” Carine Camby, the director of the French Biomedicine Agency, said of the prosthesis. Dr. Devauchelle rushed to Amiens with the patch of face, chilled in a saline solution to 39 degrees Fahrenheit, and began the transplant, starting with microsurgery to connect the blood vessels feeding the face. Dr. Devauchelle said blood circulation to the transplanted portion was restored at 9 a.m. Sunday, four hours after it had been severed from the donor.


    The operation continued into Sunday afternoon as a team of eight surgeons connected muscle and nerves “as fine as the fibers hanging from a string bean,” Dr. Dubernard said. Finally they sewed up the skin and mucous membranes of the mouth, working 15 hours in all. As they were cleaning the woman’s face and preparing bandages, silence fell over the operating room.


    “The result was beyond our expectation,” said Dr. Lengelé, part of the surgical team. “It was marvelous.”


    A nurse asked if they might applaud, and when one of the doctors nodded, the nurses began to clap.


    By Friday morning, the woman was eating and drinking and speaking clearly, the doctors said. Though she does not yet have muscular control or feeling in the transplanted portion of her face, she is able to open and stretch her mouth with the facial muscles that had remained intact.


    The doctors said it would be months before they knew how much, if any, feeling or motor control she would have in the graft, though they said the swelling had already begun to recede and her appearance was relatively normal.


    “There is only a thin scar running around the transplanted area,” said Dr. Lengelé, adding that the patient had already showed signs of psychologically accepting the transplant, saying Thursday, “This is my face.”


    The doctors stressed that the appearance was determined as much by the underlying bone structure as by the features of the skin, but added that the donor’s skin color, texture and thickness presented a “stunning” match to the recipient’s. If the transplant is ultimately successful, they said, the woman will look neither exactly as she did before nor like her donor.


    “It will be a new face,” Dr. Devauchelle said.


    A patch of tissue taken from the donor’s forearm and transplanted under the woman’s arm will allow doctors to monitor the body’s response to the graft without having to take scarring biopsies from her face. The doctors said the woman had already passed the period when thrombosis, or blood clots, presented the greatest risk to her life, but that the most critical time for a possible rejection of the graft would come in the next week.


    Dr. Dubernard said he had already injected stem cells from the donor’s bone marrow into the patient in an attempt to enhance her body’s tolerance of the transplanted tissue. After reviewing successful hand transplants, he theorized that cells produced by the marrow of the donor’s hands were the critical element in the operation’s success. He added that another “infusion” of the donor’s bone marrow stem cells would be given to the patient on the 11th day after the transplant. The transplant did not include bone.


    As with all transplants, the doctors said, there was about a 33 percent risk of death, a 33 percent risk that the body will reject the graft and only a 33 percent chance that the transplant will prove successful. Surgical teams in other countries, including the United States, are closely watching the outcome before proceeding with face transplants they are planning.


    “We think of all the people who have been disfigured to whom we could give new hope,” Dr. Dubernard said.


    Lawrence K. Altman contributed reporting from New York for this article.







     


    Friday, December 02, 2005







    Cool Clothes for Cool People




    December 1, 2005
    Dress Like Your Dad? He Rocks
    By RUTH LA FERLA

    DEBORAH DEJAH, a New Yorker and the mother of two, has long shared her daughter’s tastes in music. Now she shares her dress size too. So it was probably inevitable that Mrs. Dejah, 48, and Olivia, 14, would find themselves at Marsha D. D., a Third Avenue store specializing in children’s fashion, squeezing their diminutive frames into identical Doors T-shirts, the image of Jim Morrison emblazoned on the front.

    The Dejahs’ infatuation with the accouterment of classic rock ‘n’ roll does not stop there. Olivia makes regular forays into her mother’s closet, ferreting out the old T-shirts, frayed jeans and weathered cowboy boots that were once the emblems of her mother’s renegade look, hoping they will lend a subversive edge to her own.

    Mrs. Dejah is thrilled. “These clothes resonate from your childhood,” she said. “That you could share them with your kid is really wonderful.”

    It is also fashionable, perfectly in tune with the current revival of an old-school aesthetic founded on the relics of classic rock’s glory days, an era roughly from the mid-1960′s through the early 70′s. In the last year or two, the trappings of that raucous era have acquired a mass appeal, recycled or reinvented for a candidly nostalgic age.

    Rock’s funky, flamboyant aesthetic has been part of the cultural landscape for so long that to some it may not register as new. But the look is now being revisited simultaneously by a young generation enchanted with rock’s golden age and by their parents, many of them seeking to reconnect with their past lives.

    A high-low roster of retailers – including Fred Segal, Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys New York; vintage shops like Cherry and Resurrection; and youth-driven chains like Urban Outfitters and Hot Topic – have added components of classic rock style to their inventories. That stock encompasses original and contemporary variations of Rolling Stones, Pink Floyd and Led Zeppelin T-shirts; biker and cowboy boots and winkle-pickers; low-rise drainpipes and patched and shredded denim flares; Sergeant Pepper-style marching band coats; glitter tops; and faux folkloric tunics worthy of Janis Joplin or Stevie Nicks.

    “Rock ‘n’ roll is part of everybody’s uniform right now,” said Jaye Hersh, the owner of Intuition, a popular Los Angeles boutique and Web site selling rock-inflected items like studded belts and newly minted concert T-shirts, even baby onesies imprinted with an AC/DC logo.

    Aspiring hipsters of any age can buy their rock paraphernalia from mass marketers like H&M, which is selling skinny black velvet jackets reminiscent of Mick Jagger’s; companies like Trunk, a maker of reissued concert T-shirts; or catalog merchants like Worn Free, which publishes a promotional gazette styled like an alternative newspaper, advertising a “heritage line” of clothing bearing images of Frank Zappa and John Lennon. “This is rebellion made ready-to-wear,” the catalog copy boasts.

    Those who like their look raw and authentic flock to shops like Resurrection in the East Village, a purveyor of used concert shirts, leather jackets and accessories priced from $200 to several thousand dollars. For older shoppers, high prices are no hurdle. “They are buying all those things that they wanted as a kid, that they didn’t get to have,” said Katy Rodriguez, an owner of the shop.

    Others turn to eBay, which reports a recent run on vintage pieces like hardware-embellished hipster belts, motorcycle jackets, leather wristbands, old concert T-shirts and Nike sneakers customized with a portrait of Bob Marley.

    Last month Cherry, a boutique in Greenwich Village and Los Angeles that sells vintage rock clothing to the fashion set, opened an outlet at the Virgin Megastores in Times Square and in Los Angeles, an indication that the music emporium, which sells new band T-shirts and accessories to teenagers and young adults, has made a commitment to the old-time style.

    Ed Baker, a student from England, strolled inside Virgin’s Cherry shop in Times Square on Tuesday and gazed longingly at an olive drab field jacket, an artifact from his father’s time. “My dad was a Mod back in the day,” Mr. Baker, 23, said. “He rode scooters and stuff, and he was fond of the Beatles, the Stones and the Who.”

    That his father might have worn one of the styles on display “is definitely part of the appeal for me,” he said.

    Shoppers partial to more lacquered rock interpretations can wait until early next year, when spring fashions from houses like Comme des Garçons, Undercover, Balenciaga and Dior Homme begin trickling into stores. In her men’s show in February, Rei Kawakubo, the Comme des Garçons designer, introduced a procession of suits and shirts gaudily done up with the Stones’ famous lips-and-tongue logo. Undercover, an influential women’s line by Jun Takahashi, includes playful riffs on the concert T-shirt, sliced up and reassembled as A-line dresses, tunics and hip-wrapped skirts.

    Rock’s stylistic revival comes at a time when the signature music of the 60′s and 70′s reverberates in the popular consciousness by way of made-for-TV movies and books, the latest including “The Autobiography of Donovan: The Hurdy Gurdy Man,” out this week from St. Martin’s Press. Boomers with families in tow have packed a recent run of concerts, including the Stones, who performed in New York City in September, and Cream, who reunited for a three-night blockbuster at Madison Square Garden in October. A Times Square billboard trumpets the 1971 “Concert for Bangladesh,” now on DVD.

    It was only a matter of time before the wholesale commercialization of classic rock would find a new outlet in fashion. That old-school style is “valid today,” said David Wolfe, the creative director of the Doneger Group, which forecasts retail trends. “It is very much a part of our time, being adopted by a younger generation looking for a way to rebel within the boundaries being set by mainstream society.”

    Lisa Koenigsberg, an adjunct professor of arts at New York University and the founder of Arts Initiatives, which organizes conferences on the arts, observed that rock’s raw style is just as potent a magnet to the middle-aged. “It conjures an Arcadia, a time when the boomers felt they could change the world,” she said.

    Ms. Koenigsberg, who will preside at “Dressing the Part,” a New York University conference that runs today through Saturday and addresses the allure of rock style, added that for parents and children alike, that style “represents a narrowing of the bridge between the generations, a visual argument that both are on the same page.”

    The appeal of rock fashion lies primarily in its authenticity. “It’s not about taste,” argued the aptly named Mick Rock, who has been photographing rock bands since 1969. “It’s more about energy. These are people very involved in their own style. Quite often they are self-styled. They are pulling together unlikely elements, and it’s their attitude that makes them work.” An exhibition of Mr. Rock’s photographs opens today at the gallery in the Soho Grand Hotel in Manhattan.

    Paradoxically, a denatured, stylized version of the look prevails on the runways and in fashion glossies. This month Harper’s Bazaar features a homage to the likes of Patti Smith, Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin using designs from Yves Saint Laurent, a look that is anything but gritty.

    “Rock is not destroyed anymore,” said Julie Gilhart, the fashion director of Barneys, where best sellers include glamorized versions of the classic biker’s boot. “It’s cleaned up. Everything is done with such precision that you’re going to look as if you thought about it long and hard.”

    At Bergdorf, which does a robust business with Chrome Hearts rock-inspired accessories, shoppers have embraced the tough-as-rivets look as a complement, or sometimes an antidote, to the prim runway fashions of the last several seasons. It appeals to “luxury customers who do not necessarily want to look as if they are conforming,” said Robert Burke, the store’s fashion director.

    Mrs. Dejah, the mom who shops at Marsha D. D., is among those likely to incorporate the look into a more refined ensemble, pulling on a Stones T-shirt, for instance, to punch up a fastidiously tailored blazer and black pants. “Rock is not my whole look,” she said. “If I have to do something grown-up, I’ll make some adjustments.”

    And Bergdorf’s interpretation of classic rock will not be literal, Mr. Burke said, but will highlight hard-edged elements from the collections of Alexander McQueen and Dsquared, a mix intended for customers who want to roughen up and lend ballast to the season’s wispy doll-like looks.

    Today rock style is increasingly pitched to an audience grown comfortable with its casual if somewhat mannered appearance. “Formality doesn’t really exist in everyday fashion like it did in the times of our parents and grandparents,” said Cesar Padilla, an owner of Cherry. “That’s why the things we take for granted – denim and leather and boots – which were embraced by the rock movement, have become part of modern street chic.”

    Nor will the sight of a baby boomer tricked out in leather and flares raise many eyebrows, Mr. Padilla added. “In the 60′s, if you had a record executive walking around in a Sonic Youth T-shirt, you would have thought he was out of his mind.

    “But today it’s O.K. for a 50-year-old to wear a Sonic shirt, because everybody in Sonic Youth is 50 years old.”

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